[released] 17mm 8x7135 with Zener & dual-PWM + stubborn: A17PZL

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wight
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[released] 17mm 8x7135 with Zener & dual-PWM + stubborn: A17PZL

Nanjg-105c replacement w/ added functionality. [Regular firmwares can be used by bridging pins 5&6 to make it work like a 105c or Qlite – new functionality requires flashing a current version of STAR or similar.]

Features:

  • 1mm ‘tall’ component keepout around edge. While all plastic packages are 1mm+ away from the edge, 7135 tab is actually only 0.5mm away from the edge.
  • 7+1*7135 (so 8x) with dual-PWM, similar to RMM’s Moonlight Special (#1447) == identical functions, intended for use with the same firmware. Intended to achieve more efficient, consistent, and lower moonlight modes.
  • Zener ready. [SOD-123, our standard sized Zener]
  • Offtime ready.
  • Covered (scrapeable) PB4 (Pin3) input/output pad. Use for temp sensor or FET turbo w/ a stacked FET. The pad is ~1×2mm in size.
  • A significant arbitrary aesthetic design goal should be obvious… hint: it involves a lot of 0805s in a straight line!
  • Based on Cereal_killer’s post #44 in the DD+7135 thread I’ve used a larger GND ring on top where possible. The bottom remains 1mm. The exposed copper is 0.5mm on top and 0.25mm on the bottom with large ~1mm scallops.
  • Like some other recent drivers, this driver does have a reverse-polarity protection diode but bypasses the diode for the voltage divider. Due to this we are able to use any diode desired. Ideally we use a protection diode with as low a Vf as is reasonable.
  • The exposed spring pad is exactly 5mm, ignoring the via. The total copper under the spring is 6.4mm. [A signal trace is immediately outside this 6.4mm area, but everything should remain fully covered in resist out to approximately 7.4mm]
  • Both power vias are 1.3mm.
  • LED+/- pads are 2.6mm in diameter.

I established a very arbitrary design goal and stuck to my guns. All the 0805 components are perfectly lined up and spaced evenly from one another. Any differences in spacing are due to the low resolution render. Actual pads are significantly farther apart than they look. As far as the electrical design / schematic, this was directly inspired by the Moonlight Special driver. I’ve been discussing sequences of 7135s for a long time (and others were no doubt discussing it before I did). Under that system I’d normally put PWM on a single 7135 and then use toggles to turn on and off all the others in sets, typically organized something like (1, 1, 2, 4) or (1, 2, 3, 6) which allows the use of 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, or 8 IC’s at once (or 1 through 12 in the second set). At some point I came up with a hybrid driver which used an FET and all the other available outputs on an ATtiny13A in order to get as close to that ideal as possible + have FET turbo, but there are some downsides to that and more work to be done. Until RMM brought out the Moonlight Special driver it never occurred to me that there was any point to going less than “whole hog” on that concept. What RMM realized was that a single 7135 could maintain a very low, efficient, and reliable ‘low’ or ‘moonlight’ mode on one PWM output, and that if we hooked an additional PWM output up to another thing we could have both high and low current with PWM. (This driver is intended to use with either “full on” on all eight 7135s, PWM on all of the 7135s for all the regular modes, full on on a single 7135, or PWM on a single 7135 for the lowest mode.)

This driver has been cryptically named A17PZL, which can either stand for PWM, Zener, Linear… or PuzZLe.
Wink

While the power vias are suitable for soldering your LED hookup wires into at a very large 1.3mm, there are also giant 2.6mm pads which are directly across from each other near the edges of the PCB. For many installs these probably make the most sense.


https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/dC3iqMxp



Additional pics in post #54.

Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup Wink
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)

Edited by: wight on 12/30/2014 - 21:35
wight
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Here is the original ‘work in progress’ OP. At the time the thread was titled:
[WIP] 17mm 8×7135 with Zener & dual-PWM + stubborn“.

wight wrote:
Features:
  • 1mm component keepout around edge.
  • 7+1*7135 (so 8x) with dual-PWM, similar to RMM’s Moonlight Special.
  • Zener ready.
  • Offtime ready.
  • Covered (scrapeable) PB4 (Pin3) input/output pad. Use for temp sensor or FET turbo w/ a stacked FET. 2mm in diameter.
  • A significant arbitrary aesthetic design goal should be obvious… hint: it involves a lot of 0805s in a straight line
  • Based on Cereal_killer’s post #44 in the DD+7135 thread I’ve used a larger GND ring on top where possible. The bottom remains 1mm. Both sides have 0.5mm exposed.
  • Like some other recent drivers, this driver does have a reverse-polarity protection diode but bypasses the diode for the voltage divider. Due to this we are able to use any diode desired. Ideally we use a protection diode with as low a Vf as is reasonable.
  • The exposed spring pad is exactly 5mm, ignoring the via. The total copper under the spring is 6.4mm. [A signal trace is immediately outside this 6.4mm area, but everything should remain fully covered in resist out to approximately 7.4mm]
  • Both power vias are 1.1mm.
  • LED+/- pads are 2.6mm in diameter.

I know that this may not be my very best work. I established a very arbitrary design goal and stuck to my guns. All the 0805 components are perfectly lined up and spaced evenly from one another. Any differences in spacing are due to the low resolution render. Pads are significantly farther apart than they look.

I am open to suggestions for cryptic acronyms for this driver. As you can see, my driver names typically begin with the character “A,” followed by the diameter in MM, followed by a psuedo-descriptive string of characters. 2-3 characters is probably ideal. A hyphen could be used. I don’t know. Wink


Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup Wink
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)

wight
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v008

I was concerned about the 3 vias located under the tab on the top 7135 which sits next to the Zener diode. I suspect that during reflow those vias could cause the 7135 to shift inwards and possibly bridge the Vdd/PWM pin onto the Zener’s pad. To combat this problem I distributed vias around the GND ring.

Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup Wink
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Rufusbduck
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A178PZL?

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

wight
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Rufusbduck wrote:
A178PZL?
= “puzzle” ? In order to taunt people when they realize that they should have soldered the MCU in place after the 0805 components?

Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup Wink
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)

texaspyro
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Rufusbduck wrote:
A178PZL?

pizzle? (wikipedia is your friend)

Rufusbduck
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Yeah, puzzle. As in what order do I do this?

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

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wight wrote:
Rufusbduck wrote:
A178PZL?
= "puzzle" ? In order to taunt people when they realize that they should have soldered the MCU in place _after_ the 0805 components?

+1 for puzzle!

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scottyhazzard
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I’m for puzzle too.

"Those who hammer their guns into plows will plow for those who do not."

wight
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Hah, I’m game. Puzzle sounds like a clear winner right now.

Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup Wink
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)

wight
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I updated the resist on the bottom to make reflow easier. There are now well-defined dams of resist between every 7135 tab and the exposed ring. The actual exposed ring is now very very thin, but the copper layer hasn’t changed (it’s 1mm) and I’ve added exposed scallops to make up for it.

Of course the silk is updated to reflect the name

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Rufusbduck
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It’s getting better all the tiiime. The scallops for the expander boards? It looks like there are some acute angles on the 7135 traces. What are the two lines across the L+ pad? They look like breaks in the copper leaving only two narrow paths for current.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

wight
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EDIT: Thanks!

  • The scallops on the bottom are there to increase the solderable area which is available on the ring without scraping. Just something to make it easier to solder the driver into a pill in other words.
  • The only acute angles I see are where PWM traces “Y” together on the bottom. Is that what you are referring to? I did those on purpose because I like the way it looks. I do not expect it to affect operation or fab-ability. Are you looking there or somewhere else?
  • The lines across L+ are just an artifact of the OSH Park rendering technique and Eagle’s Polygon output. Polygons in Eagle are turned into a series of overlapping lines. This is normal and only affects the previews.

Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup Wink
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Rufusbduck
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Aha! Yes the traces from the pwm pads to the ring and also led- to it’s ring but you know what you want. I’ve tried to minimize these by making the connector traces radial to the rings and connect to a pad corner but if it works wgaf?

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

wight
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Right. I think it’s about 6 of one and half a dozen of the other. Eagle doesn’t have dedicated tools for either task as far as I know. Neither way looks entirely natural. Aesthetics probably would have settled the question – if one looked better I’d have gone with that. Instead I settled on the one that was significantly easier for me to eyeball.

In a circuit like this, at these frequencies, as far as I know the only potential problem would be with a super, super bad fab not being able to produce something. Eg an “acid trap” problem, although I don’t have enough experience to know if that’s a real thing or just something people on the internet chat/whine about. I don’t think we’re going to run into any of that.

Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup Wink
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RMM
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Looking good! 

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wight
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RMM wrote:

Looking good! 

Thanks RMM!

It’s really a pity that Eagle does not have more features related to aesthetics, snapping, geometric layout, etc. CorelDraw would make short work of those revisions and make the result look better. Fortunately the final product is a tiny PCB, so my minor misalignments shouldn’t be super obvious.

Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup Wink
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DB Custom
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In Post 10, the last pic you show, you left out the little circle that identifies pin one on the MCU.

I don’t like it.

I LOVE IT! Smile

wight
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DBCstm wrote:
In Post 10, the last pic you show, you left out the little circle that identifies pin one on the MCU.

I don’t like it.

I LOVE IT! Smile

Hahaha, and of course the text is rotated 180 degrees from the direction the MCU should face. Wow. (that was unintentional)

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wight
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Updated to v012 –

  • Added a covered 1mm via for SW+ hookup from rear. Either pass your or scrape before assembly and solder directly into the via.
  • Improved LED- trace on bottom in order to facilitate the chunk eaten up by the 1mm via that was added.
  • Increased LED+ and LED- vias to 1.3mm for cleaner and easier 20AWG/18AWG installation. Not really very important here, but I figured I’d do it for consistency. Maybe you’ve got a long run to the LED and want to use big hookup wires.
  • Updated silk slightly. Added orientation mark for MCU.
  • Updated GND pours for cleaner and more accurate look on renders. Smile

I think it’s ready for a release. I haven’t built one yet. I never ordered any because I wasn’t happy with the driver yet in earlier versions.


https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/BiFm1nwn

Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup Wink
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)

wight
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Updated to v013 –

  • Swapped PWM outputs (Pin 5 & Pin 6)

I realized today that I had the PWM outputs connected in reverse as compared to RMM’s Moonlight Special. Of course that will work, but it was not a drop in replacement when done that way. IIRC the way it’s currently implemented in STAR requires code changes, not just define changes, so that’s a pain. I think I might have originally done it as a matter of convenience, or maybe it was just a side effect of this layout being derived from this one. Either way having the pins connected in the same fashion as the Moonlight Special is better for everyone in this case. I’ve updated the driver to be that way. As a result, the section under the MCU is a little bit less clean looking… but who’s counting? Wink


https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/dC3iqMxp

Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup Wink
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)

DB Custom
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Now I’m gonna have to get the firmware so I can flash em and check em out. Smile

Beefy traces? 3-4 high on the spring side? :bigsmile: JK, I find myself needing some more sane drivers than the FET’s on occasion and these will certainly fill the bill better than a qlite. Wink

Are both 7135’s on the MCU side of the board controlled separately or just one? If one, which one? The on top of the Zener label? This IS primarily a low moon mode 3.04A qlite replacement, isn’t it? Or have I, once again, missed something?

I’ll have to re-flow the spring side for looks, hand solder the MCU side…with those big pads the MCU side will be a piece of cake. I elected to fully hand solder an A17DD S-08 the other day and it was pretty easy, even with the wrong tip on my iron. (I use the big bevel tip that comes stock with the Hakko 888, haven’t found a need to change it. I do resistor mods, stack chips, everything with this big bevel tip. lol)

Nice work Wight, some good looking boards you’re designing these days. Wink

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This looks super awesome… Thank you so much for sharing your work with us. What components do I need to start building these?

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wight
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Only one 7135 is controlled individually. 7x and 1x. The one which is by itself is actually the 7135 next to the “B” in “BLF – everything else is part of the 7. Unfortunately making one of the topside 7135s into the single would have involved sacrifices for the rest of the layout. It’s less obvious here because I removed the 7135’s Pin2 from the footprint, but remember that there is a pin connected to GND which goes all the way from the tab to the “front” of each 7135. I don’t worry about putting covered traces under this, but I do not place vias under it.

I also use the stock bevel tip for my iron (a Hakko FX888). I got finer tips, but never got around to installing them.

Thanks!

Don’t forget that with a small code tweak you can stack an FET on top of this thing (although with only on/off control, no PWM).

EDIT: Actually the single is next to the “F” in BLF. Sorry!

Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup Wink
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wight
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grantman321 wrote:
This looks super awesome… Thank you so much for sharing your work with us. What components do I need to start building these?
Thanks & you’re welcome!

In order to build these and get the 7+1 functionality (dual PWM / low moonlight) you’ll need the ability to flash an ATtiny13A, that is your biggest expense if you do not already have it. In order to flash drivers you’ll need 2-3 things, a USBASP and a way to attach it to the MCU (ATtiny13A). I’m using a Pomona SOIC-CLIP from Mouser, some colorful wires from eBay, and a USBASP from eBay.

For the actual driver hardware you may transplant an entire Nanjg 105c, Nanjg 105D, or Qlite. For offtime you’ll need to add a single 1uF capacitor, X5R or X7R is recommended but you can probably get away with putting almost anything in place of that cap.

With the stock 19.1k and 4.7k resistors from a Nanjg/etc stepdown and shutdown values for low-voltage warning and protection must be adjusted (for a 3v stepdown and a 2.8v shutdown maybe use 138 and 129?).

Here are some links:

My advice is to consider bumping your cart to QTY=100 on all the <$0.10 components in order to maximize your savings and have some on hand. They get very cheap in QTY=100.

Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup Wink
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)

DB Custom
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wight
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Yes. [Insert NASA joke here.]

Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup Wink
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)

grantman321
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wight wrote:
For the actual driver hardware you may transplant an entire Nanjg 105c, Nanjg 105D, or Qlite.

Sweet! Just ordered 6. I’ve got enough loose 105C/Qlite components on hand to build 8 or 9. Also have what I need to flash attiny’s as well. So the newest STAR firmware should work?

“We are all worms, but I believe that I am a glow-worm.” – Winston Churchill

wight
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grantman321 wrote:
wight wrote:
For the actual driver hardware you may transplant an entire Nanjg 105c, Nanjg 105D, or Qlite.
Sweet! Just ordered 6. I’ve got enough loose 105C/Qlite components on hand to build 8 or 9. Also have what I need to flash attiny’s as well. So the newest STAR firmware should work?
Correct, the firmware on JonnyC’s GitHub should work. JonnyC merged the dual_pwm branch back into the main branch some time ago, so stick with the main branch.

The constants to focus on when setting up the firmware should be these two:
#define MODE_MOON 3
#define DUAL_PWM_START 8

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Rufusbduck
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RMM sells parts and board kits with star firmware as well as the moonlight special so I think he might also be able to flash just the mcu for this application and it would not at all surprise me to see this in kit form on his site soon for those of us still not set up to flash our own drivers. Hint, hint. Nice to see this. Has anyone ordered them yet?

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

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Three people that I know of: I just ordered some a few minutes ago, DBCstm, and grantman321. All of us can flash, so we should be good to go.

RBD, you don’t happen to know where to get those 5×5mm 105c springs do you?

Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup Wink
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)

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