What did you mod today?

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XXX-Man
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I would suggest printing in transparent colored filament.
Normal transparent looks kind of white when printed and doesn’t match my sand S2+

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SpAwN wrote:
Nice, thanks for testing Smile did you print v2 with supports?
I will post on thingverse for sure, I will wait till I get mine transparent printed, so I can add some photo’s.

Meanwhile if anyone with 3D printer want the file let me know please.


No, I printed V1. Sorry for not being clear.
I just selected “supports” in Cura to make them. I prefer slicer making supports.

You can use my photos if needed to show for now.

"With the first link, the chain is forged. The first speech censured...the first thought forbidden...the first freedom denied – chains us all, irrevocably."

My reviews:

Sofirn SF36 /// Thorfire VG10S /// Sofirn C8F

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Thanks XXX-Man, I think best filament would be smoked transparant for the black buttons.

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To make me feel better after a disappointing mod this morning, I refurbished an old abandoned 16340 EDC. It looks pretty worn but what is appealing is how small it is, virtually the same size as a EagleTac D25C.

It had a dedomed 219B 4000K and a 8×7135 AK-101 driver so it was nice already.

I changed the led for a 219B V1 4000K R9080, the driver for a BLF-A6 driver (added a 750 Ohm bleeder resistor), and I added a lighted tail with blue and red leds and a light blue cover. I had to decrease the diameter of both the switchboard and lighted ring to make it fit.

It does 500 lumen at startup, 400 at 30 seconds, so it has considerable heatsag. The 40 seconds fixed stepdown of the BLF-A6 driver is about appropriate. The tint and beam: Love of course.

link to djozz tests 

“I used to think that top environmental problems were biodiversity loss, ecosystem collapse and climate change. I thought that thirty years of good science could address these problems. I was wrong. The top environmental problems are selfishness, greed and apathy, and to deal with these we need a cultural and spiritual transformation. And we scientists don’t know how to do that.”   (Gus Speth)

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cool! Thumbs Up

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djozz wrote:

Cute! Looks kinda like a shrunk-down S5.

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djozz wrote:
To make me feel better after a disappointing mod this morning, I refurbished an old abandoned 16340 EDC. It looks pretty worn but what is appealing is how small it is, virtually the same size as a EagleTac D25C.

It had a dedomed 219B 4000K and a 8×7135 AK-101 driver so it was nice already.

I changed the led for a 219B V1 4000K R9080, the driver for a BLF-A6 driver (added a 750 Ohm bleeder resistor), and I added a lighted tail with blue and red leds and a light blue cover. I had to decrease the diameter of both the switchboard and lighted ring to make it fit.

It does 500 lumen at startup, 400 at 30 seconds, so it has considerable heatsag. The 40 seconds fixed stepdown of the BLF-A6 driver is about appropriate. The tint and beam: Love of course.

!{width:41%}https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4629/40320083232_e1f0b288d8_z.jpg!

It really looks beautiful with this worn ano and blue blue switch. It reminds me on my beloved 602c triple 219a. It was my favourite light to this date!
I would love to get one of this host for a new build but can’t find one anywhere. Especially blank like yours.

I know the feeling of failure/dissatisfaction/disappointment of mod or build. It really hurts Crying

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Looking great djozz Cool

XXX-Man
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SpAwN wrote:
Thanks XXX-Man, I think best filament would be smoked transparant for the black buttons.

Not sure if there is one.

I’m still new to 3D printing, I only have printer for 2 weeks.

"With the first link, the chain is forged. The first speech censured...the first thought forbidden...the first freedom denied – chains us all, irrevocably."

My reviews:

Sofirn SF36 /// Thorfire VG10S /// Sofirn C8F

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PH_Oton wrote:

It really looks beautiful with this worn ano and blue blue switch. It reminds me on my beloved 602c triple 219a. It was my favourite light to this date!
I would love to get one of this host for a new build but can’t find one anywhere. Especially blank like yours.

I know the feeling of failure/dissatisfaction/disappointment of mod or build. It really hurts Crying


This light is similar but quite a bit smaller even than the 602C. It was for sale for 8 dollar at Fasttech for some time and then disappeared. I modded one for myself and gave one away. Of course it can not soak up a lot of heat before overheating, but with some hand-sinking it can maintain 300 lumen.

link to djozz tests 

“I used to think that top environmental problems were biodiversity loss, ecosystem collapse and climate change. I thought that thirty years of good science could address these problems. I was wrong. The top environmental problems are selfishness, greed and apathy, and to deal with these we need a cultural and spiritual transformation. And we scientists don’t know how to do that.”   (Gus Speth)

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Hmm you are right, there is not much, here one store: https://shop.3dfilaprint.com/filaprint-pet-g-black-transparent-175mm-3d-... but the example does not look transparent.

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I installed the $5-ish BLF driver from banggood in my Ultrafire C8. I put a smear of eBay thermal schmoo on the pill and so far, so good. I have been going lightly with the Turbo mode since I already burned up a LED in a zoomie that way, but the LED board wasn’t seated well and no thermal paste. I also sliced the dome, but the finish was VERY poor. This is the first mod that has made me giggle after testing it out. Moonlight, long-press in to Turbo, very nice! It is really not much, but it is mine, etc…

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WARvault wrote:
I installed the $5-ish BLF driver from banggood in my Ultrafire C8. I put a smear of eBay thermal schmoo on the pill and so far, so good. I have been going lightly with the Turbo mode since I already burned up a LED in a zoomie that way, but the LED board wasn’t seated well and no thermal paste. I also sliced the dome, but the finish was VERY poor. This is the first mod that has made me giggle after testing it out. Moonlight, long-press in to Turbo, very nice! It is really not much, but it is mine, etc…

That sounds like great result!

There is only a short list of things to take care of to make a flashlight with great output (right led, DTP copper board, good thermal connection to the host, low resistances in the electrical path, high drain battery). Unfortunately (or fortunately Cool ) chinese budget manufacturers usually fail in in one or many items in the list, which gives us things to do and be awesome Big Smile

link to djozz tests 

“I used to think that top environmental problems were biodiversity loss, ecosystem collapse and climate change. I thought that thirty years of good science could address these problems. I was wrong. The top environmental problems are selfishness, greed and apathy, and to deal with these we need a cultural and spiritual transformation. And we scientists don’t know how to do that.”   (Gus Speth)

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djozz wrote:
WARvault wrote:
I installed the $5-ish BLF driver from banggood in my Ultrafire C8. I put a smear of eBay thermal schmoo on the pill and so far, so good. I have been going lightly with the Turbo mode since I already burned up a LED in a zoomie that way, but the LED board wasn’t seated well and no thermal paste. I also sliced the dome, but the finish was VERY poor. This is the first mod that has made me giggle after testing it out. Moonlight, long-press in to Turbo, very nice! It is really not much, but it is mine, etc…

That sounds like great result!

There is only a short list of things to take care of to make a flashlight with great output (right led, DTP copper board, good thermal connection to the host, low resistances in the electrical path, high drain battery). Unfortunately (or fortunately Cool ) chinese budget manufacturers usually fail in in one or many items in the list, which gives us things to do and be awesome Big Smile

Thanks djozz, I was a little discouraged after burning up the previous LED, and the answers I received in the “No Stupid Questions” thread, but I bought a helping hand cheap at a model train show on the weekend, and this was a project in need of soldering. I really should order a nicer copper PCB and LED before I burn this one up, hmmm…

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^ So your sliced XM-L2 is not sitting on a copper DTP-board? It is very probable then that the led will burn up at some point. Copper DTP-boards make all the difference in the world in heatsinking, and are cheap nowadays. It requires the skill to reflow the leds yourself but to learn to do that is not really hard, especially with all the information about it floating around on BLF.

link to djozz tests 

“I used to think that top environmental problems were biodiversity loss, ecosystem collapse and climate change. I thought that thirty years of good science could address these problems. I was wrong. The top environmental problems are selfishness, greed and apathy, and to deal with these we need a cultural and spiritual transformation. And we scientists don’t know how to do that.”   (Gus Speth)

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If anyone has a 3D printer and want to print Convoy S2+ black metal button copy, here is the file: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2799606
Had to wait 24 hours after registering.

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SpAwN wrote:
If anyone has a 3D printer and want to print Convoy S2+ black metal button copy, here is the file: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2799606
Had to wait 24 hours after registering.

Thank you, I might try it Smile

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A friend asked me to rebuild a wurth cordless drill battery pack for him. After disassembling the battery pack (5S2P configuration) I found out that all batteries were 0.01V and there is a very simple charging module managing that pack. No balancing wires, just positive and negative contacts with small double black wire stuck between battery cells (maybe some kind of sensor wire).
This doesn’t look like a safe way to charge a 5S2P battery pack. Please advise, I’m having second thoughts about proceeding with this rebuild.

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This scheme works in many makita battery packs for years. I like it much more than other brand packs (like aeg or fein) that have various balancing wires and extra lvp which usually causes cells disbalancing.
Just use brand cells (Im using 20R or 25R) and original charger.

P.S. I suppose pcb is aftermarket and was copied from the 5S1P original board, but I dont think this is a problem.

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Besides the + and – contact there seems to be a temp-sensor.

For my last Battery-Pack mod: I use the original charger, but it has 2,2A charging current and a time limitation. That means it charges only one hour or little above. That means I have to charge my new Battery-Pack with Samsung 30Q two times to charge it to 20,6-20,8V Charging Limit. That equals 4,12V – 4,16V for each single cell Thats perfect.

For the battery-pack of your friend, you have to try afterwards, if you have to charge it two times, or if the charger carges to a definitive stop voltage.
What cells do you found in this battery-pack and how old is it?

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djozz wrote:
^ So your sliced XM-L2 is not sitting on a copper DTP-board? It is very probable then that the led will burn up at some point. Copper DTP-boards make all the difference in the world in heatsinking, and are cheap nowadays. It requires the skill to reflow the leds yourself but to learn to do that is not really hard, especially with all the information about it floating around on BLF.

Agreed on all points djozz. Money for hobbies just isn’t there all-at-once, so if I can drib and drab it out over a few months all the better. In the next couple of weeks and I’ll put in an order with Cutter. Thanks djozz!

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kiriba-ru wrote:
This scheme works in many makita battery packs for years. I like it much more than other brand packs (like aeg or fein) that have various balancing wires and extra lvp which usually causes cells disbalancing.
Just use brand cells (Im using 20R or 25R) and original charger.

P.S. I suppose pcb is aftermarket and was copied from the 5S1P original board, but I dont think this is a problem.

Thanks kiriba, so I suppose that this charger relies only on using a batteries from same batch, matched and with similar internal resistance.

Wieselflinkpro wrote:
Besides the + and – contact there seems to be a temp-sensor.

For my last Battery-Pack mod: I use the original charger, but it has 2,2A charging current and a time limitation. That means it charges only one hour or little above. That means I have to charge my new Battery-Pack with Samsung 30Q two times to charge it to 20,6-20,8V Charging Limit. That equals 4,12V – 4,16V for each single cell Thats perfect.

For the battery-pack of your friend, you have to try afterwards, if you have to charge it two times, or if the charger carges to a definitive stop voltage.
What cells do you found in this battery-pack and how old is it?

I’ll have to test it somehow before ordering new batteries. If termination is based on time I can use only same batteries as before because drill is used in workshop with many same battery packs. To keep track this single one would be impossible. Batteries inside this pack are Samsung 18650-13L. Don’t know how old this pack is but it is few years old for sure.

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 For a hobby machine is good enough and , as Kiribaru said , is doing the job...But I have to disagree about protection and balancing system that it is attached to almost all the battery packs for professional machines ( heavy duty ones ,with several charging and discharging cicles per day ...)  , exactly for the reason NOT to let the cells being unbalanced and spoiling the whole pack !...

Pairing the new cells before installing ( capacity and internal resistance ) would be a good path to follow...

Regarding the charger  with a fixed time ( 1 hour ) charge , this could be easy modified from the internal electronics , usually is about a capacitor charged via a resistor until the voltage reaches the triggering point . Double the value of capacitor should double the charging time ...

Adrian

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cera@1967 wrote:

 For a hobby machine is good enough and , as Kiribaru said , is doing the job…But I have to disagree about protection and balancing system that it is attached to almost all the battery packs for professional machines ( heavy duty ones ,with several charging and discharging cicles per day …)  , exactly for the reason NOT to let the cells being unbalanced and spoiling the whole pack !…


Pairing the new cells before installing ( capacity and internal resistance ) would be a good path to follow…


Regarding the charger  with a fixed time ( 1 hour ) charge , this could be easy modified from the internal electronics , usually is about a capacitor charged via a resistor until the voltage reaches the triggering point . Double the value of capacitor should double the charging time …

I completely agree about balancing cells.
If charger terminates charging after, let’s say an hour, then that means you have to discharge battery pack completely before charging again. What would happen if you began to charge it when half discharged?

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You can check batteries after some time of real usage. Ask to bring it discharged, check cells voltage difference and then charge and check one more time.
Complecated circuits can balance charge cells, but often kill cells by discharge one or few units witg extra lvp.

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 Lets clear some things about BMS ( Battery Management System) . There are 3 different types of modules used for the battery packs , as following:

 Protection Modules , that are meeting the basic requirements :

 

Over current protection at charging & discharging ( any value from 1-100A and above , chosen by the manufacturer of the battery pack )

Over charge protection for each cell , at a max. 4.25V

Over discharge protection , at 2.9V.

 

Balancing Modules ,that actively stops the charging and discharging of a weaker battery from the pack, and adjust the charging current in order not to undercharge some and overcharge some others .

 

 BMS Modules , that are combining in one,  the 2 described above.

 

These modules are a must in the laptops and professional cordless machines , in order to expand at maximum ,the life of a battery pack.

On the other hand , for the hobby machines is accepted not to have this modules , due to the lower price and the fact that , not being heavily used , the unbalancing process will be slower .

About the chargers :

A professional one will have a feed back from the battery pack ( via 2 extra slots ) , stoping the charge process as soon as the charging current is dropping under a certain value.

A hobby charger is likely to have a timer for charging process due to the fact that is missing the feed back , and as a protection measure. For this particular type is more likely to get an incomplete or overcharged battery pack

As a simple rule : if you have  a battery pack with all 5 slots populated with connections ( not only 3 like , like in your case ) , and the charger with the same number of slots connected to the internal PCB , there is a good chance to have a reliable charger and a protected and balanced battery pack .

But , most of the time , the price will tell you what you paid for...

Discharging completely a li-ion pack is not a must , by contrary , only the Ni-Cd ones has to be like that , due to the well known memory effect of those .

In your particular case I have to ask you one question : does your charger have some indication about the charging process ( ex. red led = charging , green led=fully charged ) or something else ? Even on the cheapest chargers an indication of this type is present !!!...

 

 

Adrian

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Thank you for that comprehensive info about this topic Thumbs Up .
I don’t have charger now but I’ll get it this weekend so we will see.
Funny thing is that this tool (wurth impact drill) is sold as a professional tool and just this battery pack costs around $170-$180 so go figure. I’ve seen BMS modules in much cheaper tools.

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 You're right , for this price you would expect a much better quality .., but , as sometime is happening , you pay more just for the name of a tool (or a fake one !!!) , with all the counterfeits all over the world is hard to know , for an average customer... ( who would disassemble a tool right in the store ?...)

As a good example , I got 2 Bosch screwdrivers ( needed for a house restoration ) , one made in Hungary and one in China ...Both of the them were looking the same , on the outside , same box package , made in the same year , 2017 , same price and bright new both of them . Long short story , in normal use the one from Hungary was , by far , better.., more powerful , longer battery standing , in a word , much better ! After the job was finished , I had the curiosity ( kill the cat ?...) to open both of them.., and then I understood that the China one was a ordinary fake ( smaller motor and driver , no BSM in the battery pack , internal charger with ONLY a resistor for limiting the current...!!!! But I paid the same amount of money for both ! Later , and too late , I noticed the " Made in..."

And right again , myself I saw better Quality in much cheaper tools... This is the world we are living in...

Adrian

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cera@1967 wrote:

About the chargers :


A professional one will have a feed back from the battery pack ( via 2 extra slots ) , stoping the charge process as soon as the charging current is dropping under a certain value.


A hobby charger is likely to have a timer for charging process due to the fact that is missing the feed back , and as a protection measure. For this particular type is more likely to get an incomplete or overcharged battery pack


My Charger has both.
It has 4 battery contacts and is time based with a display showing the remaining charging time.
Its a “18V Ferm Premium Power” Charger.
I have to charge my new build Samsung 30Q Pack two times. If I charge it a third time, the display shows only 3-5 Minutes remaining time.

I think good and relative cheap equipment from the Netherlands.

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Today the Boruit RJ-02 hypetrain chooched in to my station. I eBay-privacy film’ed it into a buttery smooth beam.

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