What did you mod today?

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Cereal_killer
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Last night I built up this old SK68 driver board from warhawk-AVG and then stacked it on the stripped driver board from a SolarStorm SC02 then flashed it with single mode (100% + hidden strobe) eswitch-13 FW from Tom_E then installed a Chinese no-name-brand XP size 365nm UV emitter that, other than a high vF performs very well and actually outputs a good amount of 365mn light (25mm ZWB2 filters on order from AE, does have a bit of visible light too).

This is one of the lights for my next GAW.

Power and GND connections between boards so only LED wires and the one switch wire are on top.

 RIP  SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.

contactcr
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Looks good. How is the output relative to a FET triple?

vinte77
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contactcr wrote:
Looks good. How is the output relative to a FET triple?

I didn’t have a chance to compare, but the light is quite bright. I spec’ed the driver to 4.2a output and 10.5a input, and ran the light on a Sony VTC6. I think that puts the light at around 2000 lumens, so I don’t think it puts out as much lumens as you can from a high output FET triple if you’re only concerned about the lumens. However, there’s nice things you get from so many lumens from a single led. I will say that the light gets hot pretty fast. One word of warning, just make sure you work out the length of your battery in relation to your switch spring and battery tube since the driver comes with a brass button for contact. I crushed one of my batteries a little while testing.

contactcr
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Crushed because it was a longer button top or crushed because you had a long/stiff bypassed tail spring?

BlueSwordM
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Crushed because there is a solid button which can’t deform under load.

That either meant having a longer cell like contactcr said, or perhaps he dropped the light, and that can easily result in a damaged positive electrode.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

kikkoman
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Finally upgraded the old beaten up TK35 clone with a Luxeon V (4000K) running at 6A and a LM3409 buck driver with Anduril. Should be around 2000lm on turbo with a comfortable 2.6A battery draw.

Very nice beam with the smooth stock reflector. Good tint.

Not exactly a looker, I know. Neither on the inside nor on the outside. LOL And you haven’t even seen the ugly bits.
Works like a charm though. Better than new.

contactcr
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what did you use for your centering ring?

kikkoman
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contactcr wrote:
what did you use for your centering ring?

A piece of acrylic, turned on the lathe. It’s mostly for visual guidance during centering though, I only had a 16mm star where a 20mm would be the right size, so that was a bit tedious.
It doesn’t have to bear any load since the LED pill rests against the reflector flange.
It also helps keeping any dirt from getting inside.

vinte77
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contactcr wrote:
Crushed because it was a longer button top or crushed because you had a long/stiff bypassed tail spring?

My switch spring was a bit stiff and a bit long. Plus when I was testing out the light, I put the battery in through the head side and screwed in the head. I found that my flat top of my battery was crushed a little bit. I don’t think it’s something to be alarmed about but nevertheless it’s deformed a little bit, fortunately it’s only cosmetic. However, I can see if you have a long stiff spring on the tail side that it would be easy to crush the battery a little bit if you’re not careful.

goshdogit
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I modded my Emisar D1S into a single-mode light! Facepalm

Since I was reflashing Andúril onto the GT mini that arrived today, I opened the D1S to update it, too.

I tested it before reinstalling the reflector, and all was well. After reassembling the front end, it wouldn’t power on.

It turns out my emitter board solder joints were slightly too large and positioned too far toward center. Both shorted against the reflector.

With the reflector removed, the light comes on when power is applied. I got it to ramp up and down slightly a couple of times, but it’s now a single-mode driver.

I hooked it back up to the PC and the ATtiny85 is still responsive. I reflashed Andúril in case it was corrupted but that hasn’t helped.

It seems to be stuck at a moderate output level, not turbo.

I’ve already emailed Hank asking how to order a replacement driver, but does anyone knows what component(s) I’ve damaged?

KawiBoy1428
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goshdogit wrote:
I modded my Emisar D1S into a single-mode light! Facepalm

Since I was reflashing Andúril onto the GT mini that arrived today, I opened the D1S to update it, too.

I tested it before reinstalling the reflector, and all was well. After reassembling the front end, it wouldn’t power on.

It turns out my emitter board solder joints were slightly too large and positioned too far toward center. Both shorted against the reflector.

With the reflector removed, the light comes on when power is applied. I got it to ramp up and down slightly a couple of times, but it’s now a single-mode driver.

I hooked it back up to the PC and the ATtiny85 is still responsive. I reflashed Andúril in case it was corrupted but that hasn’t helped.

It seems to be stuck at a moderate output level, not turbo.

I’ve already emailed Hank asking how to order a replacement driver, but does anyone knows what component(s) I’ve damaged?

Replace the FET. It’s an Infineon Mosfet. https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/infineon-technologies/BSC009NE...

KB1428 “Live Life WOT

goshdogit
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Thanks, KB! Thumbs Up

Looks like I’ll be putting together a Digi-Key order… Big Smile

EDIT: Or, maybe not. They’re on backorder at DK. Mouser too.

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goshdogit wrote:
Thanks, KB! Thumbs Up

Looks like I’ll be putting together a Digi-Key order… Big Smile

EDIT: Or, maybe not. They’re on backorder at DK. Mouser too.


Do you live in the U.S? I have plenty of them!

You can use these too, just as good, and cheaper..https://www.arrow.com/en/products/psmn1r7-25yldx/nexperia I have plenty of them too… yeah I roast a few now and again…

It’s up to you…. Wink

KB1428 “Live Life WOT

goshdogit
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That’s very nice of you, especially since I still owe you for the 70.2 MCPCB you sent me! Big Smile

I see that the FET you linked from Arrow is a ’4-pin and tab’ layout.

Is that a suitable replacement for the 8-pin one on the Emisar driver? What orientation would I mount it in?

I’m a bit in over my head as far as driver design and theory is concerned. Smile

KawiBoy1428
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goshdogit wrote:
That’s very nice of you, especially since I still owe you for the 70.2 MCPCB you sent me! Big Smile

I see that the FET you linked from Arrow is a ’4-pin and tab’ layout.

Is that a suitable replacement for the 8-pin one on the Emisar driver? What orientation would I mount it in?

I’m a bit in over my head as far as driver design and theory is concerned. Smile


Yes it works, solder across the back, Tab is ground. Same with the 4 pins in the rear of the Infineon, (underneath the FET) the large base is ground. It will all become clear when you remove the old FET.

KB1428 “Live Life WOT

goshdogit
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KawiBoy1428 wrote:
It will all become clear when you remove the old FET.
Thanks, I removed the old FET and see what you mean.

I also readied a piece of 30 AWG Kynar wire to replace the trace that I ripped off of the board. Facepalm It’s the one that connects the pin 1 of the FET to R3 and R4.

I’m trying my darnedest to kill this driver! I’ll report back in a couple days when a new FET arrives. Smile

Mark M
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I reflowed Samsung LH351C emitters on my otherwise stock Emisar D4 with Nichia 219C LEDs that I managed to dedome from heat. I felt that my stock Nichia LEDs were tinted green. I thought that the Samsung LH351C would be better but they seem to have the same green tint maybe not quite as bad. Puts out 2400 lumens OTF at turn on, 2200 at 20 seconds, not very impressive and they seem to heat up just as quickly as the Nichia 219C, probably beacause of the lower forward voltage.

maukka
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Do you have the original CRI80 219C or the later CRI90 219C model with reduced current?

Mark M
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The later 90CRI model.

Jaded
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What is the diameter of the D1S driver? Based on the picture, I’m guessing 20-22 mm?

Mark M
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ToyKeeper states it is slightly over 22mm.
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/57031

Jaded
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Thanks. If a replacement driver can’t be acquired from Hank, I think I’ll consider TA 22mm driver.

DominikM
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Petzl Tikka XP
Luxeon RX0HW -> Cree XP-G3 S5 tc 5000k

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Light-Test.info – bike light’s & Headlamps comparison site. – In polish but picture says everything

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^ wow, 4 times the output with an emitter swap!

djozz
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Mark M wrote:
I reflowed Samsung LH351C emitters on my otherwise stock Emisar D4 with Nichia 219C LEDs that I managed to dedome from heat. I felt that my stock Nichia LEDs were tinted green. I thought that the Samsung LH351C would be better but they seem to have the same green tint maybe not quite as bad. Puts out 2400 lumens OTF at turn on, 2200 at 20 seconds, not very impressive and they seem to heat up just as quickly as the Nichia 219C, probably beacause of the lower forward voltage.

Are those the 5000K 90CI LH351C emitters from Arrow? That is a disappointing first result from this led, at this current a lower performance than 219C and not a great tint.
Mark M
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djozz wrote:
Mark M wrote:
I reflowed Samsung LH351C emitters on my otherwise stock Emisar D4 with Nichia 219C LEDs that I managed to dedome from heat. I felt that my stock Nichia LEDs were tinted green. I thought that the Samsung LH351C would be better but they seem to have the same green tint maybe not quite as bad. Puts out 2400 lumens OTF at turn on, 2200 at 20 seconds, not very impressive and they seem to heat up just as quickly as the Nichia 219C, probably beacause of the lower forward voltage.
Are those the 5000K 90CI LH351C emitters from Arrow? That is a disappointing first result from this led, at this current a lower performance than 219C and not a great tint.

Correct, it is those same emitters.

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I keep hearing about tint issues with the LH351 but the ones I got from Arrow are very consistently pleasing, no green or rosy hues. I got the D model at 5000K and 80 CRI and the 40 I’ve used have been excellent. Price was very good as well at around $2.04 each shipped.

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Oh, and Kawi? The large pad under the MOSFET may indeed be the negative lead to the emitter but it definitely is not ground! Let ground touch that and you’re in direct drive from the cell with no modes, bypassing the driver…

Just to be clear for those that are new to all this.

goshdogit
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I got the new FET installed on the D1S driver but it’s still one mode.

I tested the switch and it’s good, and the driver acts the same with the switch removed.

For now, I put my D1 driver into the D1S so I can do some comparisons with the GT mini. I made sure to make my MCPCB solder joints flat and toward the outside of the board.

I probed around while I had both drivers out and the connections seem ok.

My trace replacement to pin 4 also tests good. It’s not touching pin 3 as the photo might suggest.

Earlier, I incorrectly referred to the bottom right pin of the stock FET as pin 1. It is actually pin 4.

I thought the dimple in the corner of an IC was a universal marker of pin 1. Apparently not?

BTW, Hank got back to me, and it’s $6 for a replacement driver.

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The one with the splootch of white paint? That’d be pin 1. Bottom-right would be pin 4.

They (generally; dunno any exceptions) always go ccw, so a dimple in the corner means it’s pin 1.

09 F9 11 02 9D 74 E3 5B D8 41 56 C5 63 56 88 C0

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