What did you mod today?

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DB Custom
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I usually leave the factory wrap on. Almost always fits.

But then, I don’t exactly re-wrap… I cover the writing (mine) with a piece of 2” wide heavy duty packing tape and call it good. Usually works… Wink

djozz
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This evening a second Nichia Optisolis mod, same story as my first but now in a Convoy S9, a bit more difficult than the S2+ build but the light will be a present so it needs USB charging. A 16mm XM Noctigon was first sanded to 15mm, bottom made very flat and edges rounded, this was done because it will be glued in later with AA-adhesive and the board must not make electrical contact with the housing. Then a solder-pad to the core of the board was scratched at the side. Then the two original +and – solder pads were connected with a wire. Then four 5000k Optisolis leds were reflowed on the XM-pads, the larger minus pads all facing inwards soldered on the central thermal pad, the smaller plus pads of the leds to the plus and minus pads on the outside.

Lots of re-trying, I had one led reversed it appeared Facepalm , made a dirty job of the board eventually but in the end it worked.

The reflector had to be reamed to 8.5mm diameter, and slightly sanded on the underside afterwards to remove the sharp edge. It fits tightly around the 4-led array and I will not use a centering piece. The board is thicker than the stock board, that will compensate for not using the centerpiece.

The board was glued in with a led-tester connected to leds+ and head shell, so that a short between board and head would light up the leds, so I would be able during hardening of the glue to wiggle the board to remove the short. But all went well without shorts luckily, not the greatest thermal connection from board to flashlight but the current will be under 2 amps so that should be ok. The temorary plus-wire was removed and led wires soldered to the board.

I hoped for about 400 lumen and that is what I got: 390 lumen OTF (on a Keeppower 1200mAh 18350 battery, I made a S9 shorty). So that must be about 500mA per led which is good for a build like this.

I knew the glass needed heavy frosting but I still checked the beam.

The beam is not really bad actually, but the frosting is needed. Some heavy sanding with 180 grit 3M sandpaper later.

Almost perfect! Smile

Checking the big smooth center of the beam:

The messy work did not ruin the light quality.
Finished! Beer

MRsDNF
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Nice mod djozz. I have no idea where you get the patience from. Beer

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

CNCman
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DB Custom wrote:
Always a good idea to number the cells and date them, so you can keep track of the characteristics and see if some rotation helps keep em balanced. I also like to write the IR on them from the first charge to be able to see if they are degrading over time and hard use. Wink

Thanks, I didn’t think to do that. Now I have several sets of 30Q’s, I will do this soon, i still have them separate, but not with their new characteristics. Beer

CNC & Manual Machinist. Think outside the box too long , cannot find your way back in.

Good Intentions are no guarantee for Good Results.

DB Custom
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That’s really nice Jos, good work! Someone will be extremely pleased with that one! Smile

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Today I built an Eagle eye X6 triple with Osram oslon square 4000K 96 CRI leds and BLF A17DD driver and a copper spacer from kiriba-ru.

djozz
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DB Custom wrote:
That’s really nice Jos, good work! Someone will be extremely pleased with that one! Smile

Thanks Dale (and Steve) The someone is actually my mother in law, it is her birthday sunday. She is an artistic therapist and does not get good daylight in her studio in the cellar of the house. This is solved by some daylight fluorescent tubes but it comes in handy at times to have some floody instant real daylight to check colours.

Btw, next to my ROT66, this light looks really green. Face it guys, reality is ugly green Party

djozz
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ZozzV6 wrote:
Today I built an Eagle eye X6 triple with Osram oslon square 4000K 96 CRI leds and BLF A17DD driver and a copper spacer from kiriba-ru.

Talking about green, which generation Oslon Square were these, and how do you like the tint?
gchart
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My Astrolux A01 quit working almost 2 years ago, and I had spare parts laying around from the v1.0 of my Booster Tails. So what to do? Create a basic boost driver for it! No MCU, no modes, no PWM… just nice, consistent output. It can technically handle a 10440 as well (input: 0.7 – 5.5 V), but I don’t see a need for that.

My 7yo needed a simple light for reading at night, so I dialed it down to ~6.7mA to the 219B for 3 lumens. I think that may even be too bright.

djozz
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Nice one gchart! I will have to read into your booster tails, they are nice.

gchart
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Thanks djozz! And that Convoy S9 Optisolis build looks very cool, good job on that!

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gchart wrote:
Thanks djozz! And that Convoy S9 Optisolis build looks very cool, good job on that!

I think it is so nice that I’m going to repeat the mod for myself (hopefully making a less dirty board), maybe in 6500K Optisolis leds. Just ordered a new S9 with short tube for that.
MRsDNF
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Can I be your son for a week or so gchart? Smile

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

gchart
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Aren’t we all family already? One, big happy BLF family Big Smile

djozz
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Mod of the type: not much gain but also not much work. I bypassed the two springs of my mini-GT (that already had a dedomed XP-G2 S4 2B). Throw went up from 229 kcd to 241 kcd. So the light became a bit better and a bit uglier.

So the 300 kcd that Vinh gets from the miniGT with a Black Flat can in principle be had with just the springs bypassed, if you go by the luminance table that The_Driver maintains.

CRX
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Emisar D4 lighted switch mod again. I used a piece of 12mm x 1mm carbon fibre tube, 10mm x 1mm clear acrylic tube, 0.5mm clear silicone sheet and 0.5mm black kydex for a green lighted glow circle around the switch button.

Emisar D4 Lighted Switch

staticx57
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CRX, your mods never fail to impress

CRX
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Thanks mate Beer

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Nitecore NU20

DB Custom
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Dude, are you sure you don’t have a wand or something?

CRX
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I have been called a wizard before LOL

DB Custom
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Hmmm, I’ve got enough Scottish ancestry to be able to wear a kilt, need to get me one and see if it influences my creative juices… Wink

Nice work, again, always enjoy seeing what you’re up to and it’s always a surprise. lol

CRX
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Thanks. The creative juices aren’t in the kilt, it’s in the haggis. Big Smile

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djozz wrote:
Mod of the type: not much gain but also not much work. I bypassed the two springs of my mini-GT (that already had a dedomed XP-G2 S4 2B). Throw went up from 229 kcd to 241 kcd. So the light became a bit better and a bit uglier.

So the 300 kcd that Vinh gets from the miniGT with a Black Flat can in principle be had with just the springs bypassed, if you go by the luminance table that The_Driver maintains.

Your bypass soldering looks great to me. I wouldn’t have the guts to have tried what you did on an already awesome flashlight.

I’d rather use my flashlight around the house than turn on the lights.

Cereal_killer
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Generation 0 Sinner custom hosts switch went bad a few years ago. The 10A Judco is no longer available (highest latchng switch rating they make now is 5A @ 14v and the base is physically larger). After conversing with Sulman as well as parts suppliers I knew what had to be done…

5A Judco modified to have a 20×20mm square base. Black delrin ring is just spring support, not a PCB. It looks rickety but this is actually as-designed originally (switch fits&functions as Sulmans original 10A did)

We can rebuilt him, make his brighter, stronger, throwier.

I’m excited, the light broke ~2015/2016!

 RIP  SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.

DB Custom
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For a bad switch in the Sinner, I just flip the retaining rings around and use a standard mini Omten board with spring. (plastic retaining ring to press the boot, brass ring up top to carry ground.) Very simple, might need to open the hole in the brass ring a bit for spring clearance but overall this is the easiest way to upgrade the switch in a Sinner.

led4power
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Convoy C8 with C8TT head, CUTE-4-SS optics,4x Luxeon V 4000K, 24Amp LD-B4 driver and subZero FET switch:

Ceiling bounce lux shows similar numbers to C8 with anna optics and 6x LH351D 90CRI, so it should be around 6000-6500lm,battery cell was VTC5A.

Tint is great, no green,beam is very smooth without coronas, only SS bezel creates some artifacts.

Despite the large fins, head still heats up very quickly because of large power (~100Watts with fresh battery).

But it cools down considerably faster than C8 with alu spacer and similar total weight.

I'm sure at more sane power levels (~10Amps) this head would be more beneficial, 100Watts is just too much for this size (except for short bursts) without active cooling.

With battery voltage of 3.8V (nearly 50% discharged) current on high was still pretty good, around 19Amps, thanks to the very low Vf of Luxeon V.

 

More info about head:

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/45343

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/59573

 

 

 

 

 

 

Cereal_killer
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DB Custom wrote:
For a bad switch in the Sinner, I just flip the retaining rings around and use a standard mini Omten board with spring. (plastic retaining ring to press the boot, brass ring up top to carry ground.) Very simple, might need to open the hole in the brass ring a bit for spring clearance but overall this is the easiest way to upgrade the switch in a Sinner.

There never was any retaining ring or anything. So apparently this was one of the first hosts that he built and it doesn’t use a retaining ring on the tail, only the physical stem of the switch held it in. When I first had the issue and spoke with him he said if this would have been a slightly newer, as he calls them “first generation body” that it would have been no problem to send me parts to convert it to a standard setup (mini Omten) or w/e I needed but because this was one of the first ones he ever made and it was so different that he couldn’t offer me anything except superseded part numbers.

Its not gonna be a super hot rod or anything so I expect this Judco to hold up better than the original.

 RIP  SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.

DB Custom
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His very first ones had a brass end piece that had a plastic retaining ring holding the switch in. One piece body with a brass bezel holding the lens onto the reflector. At any rate, glad to see you got it working. Wink

Cereal_killer
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2x LH351D’s, 1× 365nm UV

 RIP  SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.

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