What did you mod today?

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Geuzzz
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Put a small trit in the clip of my s mini ti.

trailhunter
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I have a couple m43s laying around. Reflowed one from 219c to 219b. Amazing rose flood.

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I replaced the XP-L Hi star in my Klarus Mi7 with a SST-20 (4000K) from Simon/Convoy (had to reduce the diameter of the star a bit).

Ultra-basic beginner mod but it’s where I’m at Smile

Flashlights, blades & beer

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AgentSteel wrote:
I replaced the XP-L Hi star in my Klarus Mi7 with a SST-20 (4000K) from Simon/Convoy (had to reduce the diameter of the star a bit).

Ultra-basic beginner mod but it’s where I’m at Smile

Lao Tzu: The journey of a thousand miles begins with one step’.

You are a flashaholic if you are forced to come out of the closet, to make room for more flashlights.

CRX
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Brass lighter mod I did yesterday.http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67591

johnkey68
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TrueRMS
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Wow nice build! You make the spacer?

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Chatika vas Paus wrote:
I haven’t posted anything here for a long time.
Gray C8. Dual 2nd Blue spring on the tail. TA fet+6+1 with 20awg wire. 3x lh351d 4000k & 3x lh351d 5000k, both cri90. Ledil Anna-40-6-M. Mcpcb and alu spacer from l4p.
I measured almost 10A on the tail with vtc5a. Probably it would be more if I had a clamp meter.
I would like to be able to do more measurements…


Super nice!

I am contemplating a similar build with the M21A.

Beam shots??

lumenzilla
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CRX wrote:

Brass lighter mod I did yesterday.http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67591

Stunning!
You give me idea for my unused zippo Thumbs Up

Is that a switch (the cylinder shaped stuff)?
I’m thinking about using reed (magnetic) switch for my future build.

johnkey68
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Yes .
Yes, but only for myself, it’s just a hobby …
I’m not going to make money on it.

CRX
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lumenzilla wrote:

Stunning!
You give me idea for my unused zippo Thumbs Up

Is that a switch (the cylinder shaped stuff)?
I’m thinking about using reed (magnetic) switch for my future build.


Yes it has three switches, you can see it working in the linked thread Thumbs Up
MascaratumB
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I used a Sanrenmu knife clip and put it in one of my Convoy S2+ Wink

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Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2/// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

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Switch PCB is modded back to 2P battery. In the past i removed the copper layer on 60% of the switch side. So i had to fix it. Used a 0,1mm copper sheet, soldert 2 layers together and glued it on the pcb with thermal glue. Then i were able to install the new switch and the new metal button. Needed a spacer to make it work nicely. But i did not have the right material on hand. So i had to make one brass spacer 2mm and one copper 0,5mm. Soldert both together and made it fit to the aluminium Tailcap. Now i am waiting for some GITD powder to fill the space arround the metal switch button. And the new pill from Kirill that seems to be stuck in customs. But untill then i will remove the red marked area on the pics to make the tube more flat on both sides.
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MascaratumB
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Put some magnets on the Sofirn C01’s I have. Bought here (Convoy Store):
Used a drop of super glue to fix the magnets in the lights!
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/D5-3-magnet-for-18650-flat-head-battery/...

[REVIEWS] ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// BRINYTE: T28 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// FIREFLIES: ROT66 GEN II /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// SKILHUNT: M150 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 / TO50R / E19 /// XTAR: PB2 Charger ///

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2/// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

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TheOnlyDocc
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Rebel Lime in a Convoy C8+ on a LD25 3A driver. I wanted to use one of my old D80. But the 17mm driver was not a good fit. Even with almost empty battery the rebel lime is pulling the full 3A. It is still not 100% centered. But it is looking fine as it is now.
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DavidEF
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So… what is Rebel Lime good for? I mean, is it an aesthetic choice, or is there a practical purpose?

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DavidEF wrote:
So… what is Rebel Lime good for?

To put out a lot of lime colored light Cool Kidding! I really have no special use for it. But i find it more interesting to work with a led i never used.
And i like the green/lime colored leds. So i had to get at least one Rebel Lime. To bad that the MCPCB is a Aluminium board and not a Copper DTP
Waiting for new boards from Neven to complete a few more color light mods.

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djozz
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TheOnlyDocc wrote:
DavidEF wrote:
So… what is Rebel Lime good for?

To put out a lot of lime colored light Cool Kidding! I really have no special use for it. But i find it more interesting to work with a led i never used.
And i like the green/lime colored leds. So i had to get at least one Rebel Lime. To bad that the MCPCB is a Aluminium board and not a Copper DTP
Waiting for new boards from Neven to complete a few more color light mods.

I have a load of (20mm) Rebel Sinkpads doing nothing, I can send you some if you like.
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With the rebel does the star have to be a little off center to properly center the dome of the LED?

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TheOnlyDocc wrote:
Rebel Lime in a Convoy C8+ on a LD25 3A driver.

Reminds me of my Quarks and Jetbeams… Evil

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TheOnlyDocc wrote:
Rebel Lime in a Convoy C8+ on a LD25 3A driver. I wanted to use one of my old D80. But the 17mm driver was not a good fit. Even with almost empty battery the rebel lime is pulling the full 3A. It is still not 100% centered. But it is looking fine as it is now.

 

Tint is almost as bad as some white CREEs laughing

DavidEF
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“almost” Innocent

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Rebel Lime... For a second I thought it was a joke for how the oldgood XPG2s look with a wavien collar and FET.

It's, uh, a color of LED I've only witnessed within the bands of the Cree Fried Egg. 

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djozz
Thanks! But i have one Rebel Lime and one Rebel Alu Sinkpad left here.
I never thought that it would be such a pain to center this led. Even when the dome is right in the center you get a beamprofile that looks not centered. Only thing that helped was to tilt the reflector a tiny bit. This way you get a good looking hotspot. But still some artifacts arround the hotspot.
Next led i want to build a light with is the KP CSLNM1 F1. The Led4Power 6A driver is ordered (will turn it down to ~5A) and i can not wait to see how it looks in the D80 or the Cometa.
But i am really interested in a deep red led with high output.

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Capital
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Has anyone had trouble with blowing an SST-40? I’ve been messing with TIR lenses in an 18350 S2+ and it lasted about 3 seconds on the highest level. I was using a FET driver but thought I would be OK without a bypassed spring and the Efest 18350. Regardless of mode the led will only come on as if it’s in a moonlight mode.

I thought Astrolux was using a FET in one of their SST-40 lights? Maybe I just got a bad one?

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Capital wrote:
Has anyone had trouble with blowing an SST-40? I've been messing with TIR lenses in an 18350 S2+ and it lasted about 3 seconds on the highest level. I was using a FET driver but thought I would be OK without a bypassed spring and the Efest 18350. Regardless of mode the led will only come on as if it's in a moonlight mode. I thought Astrolux was using a FET in one of their SST-40 lights? Maybe I just got a bad one?

There's a few possibilities. You could have damaged something in the current path, like an unbypassed spring or a switch that wasn't up to the current, in a way that increased the resistance a lot. You may have blown the SST-40, as they can only handle about 9A max... however, I don't think it's likely, as my recollection is that they burn bond wires and die completely. There could also be something wrong with the driver, but I wouldn't know what or how to troubleshoot it. With TIRs, there's no chance you shorted to the reflector, so I'm not sure what else could have happened to it. I'd also check the battery voltage and the thermal paste under the MCPCB just to be thorough.

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More likely a problem with the driver or a bad reflow.

Capital
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Thanks for the input. I swapped the SST-40 with an XM-L2 and all is well. I didn’t change anything else. It has me puzzled.

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Capital wrote:
Thanks for the input. I swapped the SST-40 with an XM-L2 and all is well. I didn’t change anything else. It has me puzzled.

I would reflow the SST40 and try again. Chances are that you didn’t have a good enough thermal path and the emitter got toasty Smile

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I burned a couple of SST-40’s a while back when I upgraded to dual BlueSwordM BeCu Gen 2 springs in the tail of a Sofirn Q8 and used 30Q’s to power them through the stock FET driver. One burned out really badly and filled the reflector/lens with smoke. The other just burned a little and had permanently reduced output after. Ironically, I was trying to calibrate the Thermal Protection in Narsil, so the light was in full blast Turbo mode, waiting for me to save it from the blistering heat with a simple button push that didn’t come in time. Crazy

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