What did you mod today?

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bilakos10
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Capital wrote:
Thanks for the input. I swapped the SST-40 with an XM-L2 and all is well. I didn’t change anything else. It has me puzzled.

I would reflow the SST40 and try again. Chances are that you didn’t have a good enough thermal path and the emitter got toasty Smile

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DavidEF
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I burned a couple of SST-40’s a while back when I upgraded to dual BlueSwordM BeCu Gen 2 springs in the tail of a Sofirn Q8 and used 30Q’s to power them through the stock FET driver. One burned out really badly and filled the reflector/lens with smoke. The other just burned a little and had permanently reduced output after. Ironically, I was trying to calibrate the Thermal Protection in Narsil, so the light was in full blast Turbo mode, waiting for me to save it from the blistering heat with a simple button push that didn’t come in time. Crazy

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contactcr
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Can you guys recommend me a razor (or other) blade for de-doming? The crappy ones i’m using need an overhaul and I have a lot of LH351D 5000K 90CRI left Smile

Lightbringer
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No Wilkinson specials around? Thin, flexible, just put a shim around the LED and slice it across like you’re in a deli slicing boloney.

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contactcr
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Lightbringer wrote:
No Wilkinson specials around? Thin, flexible, just put a shim around the LED and slice it across like you’re in a deli slicing boloney.

These? https://www.amazon.com/Wilkinson-Sword-Double-Blades-Refills/dp/B07HYQ2SFF/

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Yeh, nice and bendy.

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MascaratumB
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contactcr wrote:
Can you guys recommend me a razor (or other) blade for de-doming? The crappy ones i’m using need an overhaul and I have a lot of LH351D 5000K 90CRI left Smile

In case it helps:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/65559 Thumbs Up

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Lightbringer
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Ha! And a Wilkinson blade, too. LOL

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Tally-ho
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contactcr wrote:
Can you guys recommend me a razor (or other) blade for de-doming?

A microtome.

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I finally threw my CULNM1 (Boost HL, I think) in my Z1 after I burned the 1mm2 white flat I put in the first time. It's a glorious pencil-beam.

I did have to ream out a 3535 centering ring I had that fit the Z1, and unfortunately it is a white centering ring. So, there's a funny-looking pale donut around the blindingly white square I've painted on my wall. I can't wait to get it outdoors but it's too late now.

EDC Rotation: ZL SC62 | Jaxman E2L XP-G2 5A | Purple S2+ XPL-HI U6-3A | D4 w/ Luxeon V | RRT-01 
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L6 XHP70.2 P2 4000K FET+7135 | Jaxman M8 | MF02 | Jaxman Z1 CULNM1.TG | Blue S2+ w/ ML Special
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Scallywag wrote:
……., and unfortunately it is a white centering ring. So, …………..

On white centering rings I always do an Al Jolson.

You are a flashaholic if you are forced to come out of the closet, to make room for more flashlights.

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Henk4U2 wrote:
On white centering rings I always do an Al Jolson.

It took me a minute, but I think I figured it out, Al Jolson did blackface. I hadn't thought about painting/Sharpie/whatever the centering ring, but I'm not too worried about it. Every time I open the Z1, a certain O-ring tries to attack me and more importantly the underside of the lens (it got greasy once, and I took great care in cleaning it). Besides, the donut ring is humorous to me. 

The thing is awesome though. I can see the beam itself through the air in the right environment (kind of like my green laser, but of course less). I know it's running at ~4.94 Amps (13x0.380A 7135) but I've been able to run it for several minutes without adverse effects. And I'm not too worried about battery life with a 5500mAh Shockli. The thing is not practical at all, it's the pencil-est beam I've yet dealt with, and for flood, well, it's burning 5A for like 900 lumens or something, I don't remember exactly the output. But it's so fun. And it fits in a coat pocket, unlike my MF02 (though I'm sure the MF02 out-throws it). I want to take it downtown at night and paint squares on buildings Big Smile

I've got a second one, so now I'm seriously considering modding the MF02. If I got the focus right, it would be disgusting. I'd need a new driver, though...

EDC Rotation: ZL SC62 | Jaxman E2L XP-G2 5A | Purple S2+ XPL-HI U6-3A | D4 w/ Luxeon V | RRT-01 
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contactcr
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I got some Feather Double Edge razor blades. They did great, had no idea those were so flexible and different from single sided safety razors.

Sliced a bit of my finger just setting it down wrong, scary sharp and hard to safely handle!

Lightbringer
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Hence the difference between them and safety razors…

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trailhunter
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I finally rebuilt my fw3a with sw40 219b’s. It took a while to reflash the ATtiny85 chip to toymakers andruil firmware as I had to get a better ROIC clip.

I cannot tell the difference in color between my m43 sw45k 219b and sw40. Same luscious rosey tint.

KevinZA1988
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So, what’s the difference between “toymakers andruil firmware” and the stock Anduril firmware that the light comes with?

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contactcr
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KevinZA1988 wrote:
So, what’s the difference between “toymakers andruil firmware” and the stock Anduril firmware that the light comes with?

FET limited to 50 or 75%, can’t recall which.

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So the firmware he flashed is FET limited for the 219B?

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contactcr
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KevinZA1988 wrote:
So the firmware he flashed is FET limited for the 219B?

Right. Not really required if you use GA or similar battery but it’s available so why not

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contactcr wrote:
KevinZA1988 wrote:
So the firmware he flashed is FET limited for the 219B?

Right. Not really required if you use GA or similar battery but it’s available so why not

Cool. I put some below the BBL 3000K SST-20’s in my FW3A with a 10507 optic. It’s amazing..

Acebeam L16, BLF Q8, BLF A6, BLF FW3A, BLF FW3C, Convoy L2, Convoy L6, Convoy C8+ , Convoy S3, Convoy M21A, Convoy S11, Emisar D4, Jaxman E2L, Olight S1R Baton II special edition series, S2R Baton II, Nitecore HC65.

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How about a picture?

I’m betting these look very nice in a FW3A.

Must be getting quite hot though. Smile

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

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[quote=trailhunter]I finally rebuilt my fw3a with sw40 219b’s. It took a while to reflash the ATtiny85 chip to toymakers andruil firmware as I had to get a better ROIC clip.

I cannot tell the difference in color between my m43 sw45k 219b and sw40. Same luscious rosey tint.


Want more rosey goodness? The FW3A len’s is not the best…UCL lens on the Right

Got just over 600 lumens more in the FW4A with the UCL lens…over the Stock FW3A lens.

KB1428 “Live Life WOT

contactcr
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Hm. Should measure the difference at a regulated level. Any issue with the o ring or waterproofing you think?

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I’ll take a few comparison shots vs my Convoy S3 4000K Luxeon V and post it soon Thumbs Up

It heats up a bit faster than the 7A XP-L HI’s that were in it but it’s hardly noticeable. I would probably have noticed a bigger difference if it had NW or CW emitters in stock form. The throw is about the same as the stock XP-L HI 10511 combo, but the spill is obviously not the same. So less lumens, but same throw, epic high CRI golden goodness. Great LED’s BlueSwordM!

Acebeam L16, BLF Q8, BLF A6, BLF FW3A, BLF FW3C, Convoy L2, Convoy L6, Convoy C8+ , Convoy S3, Convoy M21A, Convoy S11, Emisar D4, Jaxman E2L, Olight S1R Baton II special edition series, S2R Baton II, Nitecore HC65.

Yokiamy
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Today i rebuilt a C8 with a 3V XHP50.2, and one of Lexel’s drivers and spring bypassed it.
but accidently dedomed it while trying to fit a gasket which should fit, but just barely did and the whole dome came off
Which was good actually, now the cree rainbow corona has gone and the tint is way better!

The built was not very neat, especially the 18 AWG wires did not fit very well with the reflector, so i had to file down the reflector. After hours of filing it still touched the wires….
I decided to add another gasket, which is not the best looking but good functioning.
now i have a roughly built hot rat-rod.

Edited by: sb56637

trailhunter
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Yokiamy wrote:
Today i rebuilt a C8 with a 3V XHP50.2, and one of Lexel’s drivers and spring bypassed it.
but accidently dedomed it while trying to fit a gasket which should fit, but just barely did and the whole dome came off
Which was good actually, now the cree rainbow corona has gone and the tint is way better!

The built was not very neat, especially the 18 AWG wires did not fit very well with the reflector, so i had to file down the reflector. After hours of filing it still touched the wires….
I decided to add another gasket, which is not the best looking but good functioning.
now i have a roughly built hot rat-rod.

Nice, I’ve built multiple 3v xhp50.2 in c8 hosts. The 18g wire is a little tough getting those wires through but with fine tweezers, it makes it much easier.

What tailcap switch did you go with?

trailhunter
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KevinZA1988 wrote:
contactcr wrote:
KevinZA1988 wrote:
So the firmware he flashed is FET limited for the 219B?

Right. Not really required if you use GA or similar battery but it’s available so why not

Cool. I put some below the BBL 3000K SST-20’s in my FW3A with a 10507 optic. It’s amazing..

It’s just an insurance policy. If I accidentally add a vtc* battery, I dont run the risk of frying some relatively difficult to source emitters.

Also if I happen to sell it in the future, the insurance policy goes with the new owner Smile

KevinZA1988
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trailhunter wrote:
KevinZA1988 wrote:
contactcr wrote:
KevinZA1988 wrote:
So the firmware he flashed is FET limited for the 219B?

Right. Not really required if you use GA or similar battery but it’s available so why not

Cool. I put some below the BBL 3000K SST-20’s in my FW3A with a 10507 optic. It’s amazing..

It’s just an insurance policy. If I accidentally add a vtc* battery, I dont run the risk of frying some relatively difficult to source emitters.

Also if I happen to sell it in the future, the insurance policy goes with the new owner Smile

Thanks! Luckily I’m all about runtime, so I mostly run NCR18650GA or 35E cells in my small lights..

Acebeam L16, BLF Q8, BLF A6, BLF FW3A, BLF FW3C, Convoy L2, Convoy L6, Convoy C8+ , Convoy S3, Convoy M21A, Convoy S11, Emisar D4, Jaxman E2L, Olight S1R Baton II special edition series, S2R Baton II, Nitecore HC65.

KawiBoy1428
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contactcr wrote:
Hm. Should measure the difference at a regulated level. Any issue with the o ring or waterproofing you think?

OK…168/212…939/1102……2809/3107 stock FW3A Triple XP-L HI 1A but with a Carclo 507 from my smallest adapter which seats the FWA3 perfectly on my T/A Maukaka Tube.

But I just looked at my 3 stock len’s and all 3 are different? 2 are Purple one is Blue and one of the Purple has very little coating compared to the other…

So the 2 Purple len’s came out of my 3D GB lights and the Blue len’s came out of my XP-L HI 1A which makes sense since my 2 Nichia’s have the Blue AR lenses which are a bit better than the Purple from what I just seen.

KB1428 “Live Life WOT

Yokiamy
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trailhunter wrote:
Yokiamy wrote:
Today i rebuilt a C8 with a 3V XHP50.2, and one of Lexel’s drivers and spring bypassed it.
but accidently dedomed it while trying to fit a gasket which should fit, but just barely did and the whole dome came off
Which was good actually, now the cree rainbow corona has gone and the tint is way better!

The built was not very neat, especially the 18 AWG wires did not fit very well with the reflector, so i had to file down the reflector. After hours of filing it still touched the wires….
I decided to add another gasket, which is not the best looking but good functioning.
now i have a roughly built hot rat-rod.

Nice, I’ve built multiple 3v xhp50.2 in c8 hosts. The 18g wire is a little tough getting those wires through but with fine tweezers, it makes it much easier.

What tailcap switch did you go with?

Just a standard (blue lighted) one

Edited by: sb56637

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