What did you mod today?

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Agro
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contactcr wrote:
It’s been a while since a mod made me grin a little like the first time I used a FET driver but this one did. Sometimes it’s the little things…

Light is a Sofirn C01S
12mm FET driver from MTN with guppydrv Rev2 (1.6mm PCB thickness)
Stock SST-20 4000K and thin AL PCB


The wires that came with the driver are around 24AWG I would guess and did just barely fit once trimmed to size. I spent more time sanding the diameter of the driver to fit than I did any other part of the mod. It’s thicker than the stock driver but seems to still work fine. 1.0mm might work but I err’d on larger, i’d have to re-measure stock driver.


Used some better thermal paste and solder blobbed a Vapcell 10440. It still made connection even with the “flat” top but I didn’t want it to rub the wrap any just in case.

Turns on at over 425lm!

I suspect it can do better but i’ve never replaced the tail spring in a twisty before, any suggestions on how to get it out and fit another one? If I do that I may spend the time and try to make a kaidomain 10mm copper board fit but it would need modifying for LED wires and to be thinned out.


Really nice. Smile
Agro
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contactcr wrote:
The BOSS of all lights succumb to a tiny crepe pan. This is now my 2nd “mod” that did not require a soldering iron. Granted this was much more delicate than the first but i’m counting it.

Before:

No soldering wires here. Can’t argue with what works I guess? Liberal application of thermal paste, good! Maybe too much but I wont take points away.


Sanded components, come on. AL board for a $110 driver? Shocked She’s thicc at least..

The tiny LED tower is actually super cool. The board is drilled and it’s pressed in a tiny hole. The tower has traces running up each side. It really makes this tiny LED appear to be something with much more output.

After:

Crepe ingredients: 1× 2700K, 1× 3500K, 1× 5000K LH351D 90CRI. Better refer to your pics of bond wires to figure out polarity cause I couldn’t make out markings..

One of the two tiny resistors just below the bottom pad tried to fly with his XP-L buddy. Thankfully I noticed and was able to push him back to his home before things got out of hand. Toothpick and just a touch of paste after cleaning her up.


Hey it worked, i’m a little surprised.

Adding some spectrum goodies here for future reference. I believe Oveready uses UCL lenses but this one is from 2016 Q4 so who knows. It’s a thick piece of glass so it probably is. Low (2W), Medium (6.5W), High (17W)

CCT = 3644K (Duv 0.0004)
Color Rendering Index (Ra) = 96.6 [ R9 = 84.4 ]

CCT = 3680K (Duv 0.0001)
Color Rendering Index (Ra) = 96.1 [ R9 = 82.8 ]

CCT = 3705K (Duv -0.0010)
Color Rendering Index (Ra) = 95.5 [ R9 = 80.2 ]


Alu weighs less than copper and if thermals are good enough it’s a perfectly fine choice. That said – I’m surprised as well.
Geuzzz
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Tool ti with 3000k sst-20. We will see if this one has less pocket activation than the copper tool with clicky.

contactcr
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Is it twisty or clicky with a flush button?

Geuzzz
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contactcr wrote:
Is it twisty or clicky with a flush button?

Flush e-clicky

Marc E
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jon_slider wrote:
Unheard wrote:
Any idea how to take the head of the 2015 EagTac D25A apart?

I believe the A model has the pill pressed in from below the glass, and glued. Basically, no, it does not come apart. the D model has a bezel that unscrews but not the A model.. afaik

I think you might be confusing the model names, there’s no D25D that i’m aware of?

My pre-2015 D25A has a removable bezel, just unscrews to give access to the reflector and then the MCPCB. Bit tight in there for a soldering iron though so make sure you have patience and a thin soldering tip when you come to do it. (Learnt that the hard way :D)
That’s for the Alu version though, i believe the Ti is a one piece head. Jon_slider, maybe this is what you’re thinking of?

Edit: Oh, and it’s a 14mm MCPCB.

Marc E
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Cereal_killer wrote:
I have a flip flop (sandal) nailed to a board for unscrewing hard to remove bezles. Press the bezle into the flip flop and rotate the body. Zero damage.

I never thought to use a flip-flop, even hand held it’s so much easier than the piece of rubber i’ve been using, top tip!

Loads of good tips and info in this thread btw, and i’m in awe of so many people’s skills and creativity, and patience! I generally refrain from commenting though else i’ll sound like an over-excited fanboy.

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Marc E wrote:
jon_slider wrote:
Unheard wrote:
Any idea how to take the head of the 2015 EagTac D25A apart?

I believe the A model has the pill pressed in from below the glass, and glued. Basically, no, it does not come apart. the D model has a bezel that unscrews but not the A model.. afaik

I think you might be confusing the model names, there’s no D25D that i’m aware of?

My pre-2015 D25A has a removable bezel, just unscrews to give access to the reflector and then the MCPCB. Bit tight in there for a soldering iron though so make sure you have patience and a thin soldering tip when you come to do it. (Learnt that the hard way :D)
That’s for the Alu version though, i believe the Ti is a one piece head. Jon_slider, maybe this is what you’re thinking of?


D25C is probably what was meant, rather than D25D.

I was told the D25A had a press-fit pill by someone, so I never bothered to pick one up. Can’t recall who said it, though I think they were talking about cracking some part of a D25A Ti
Edit: Read from here

EDC Rotation: ZL SC62 | Jaxman E2L XP-G2 5A | Purple S2+ XPL-HI U6-3A | D4 w/ Luxeon V | RRT-01 
EagTac D25C Ti | DQG Slim AA Ti | UF-T1 by CRX | Olight S1 | Klarus Mini One Ti
L6 XHP70.2 P2 4000K FET+7135 | Jaxman M8 | MF02 | Jaxman Z1 CULNM1.TG | Blue S2+ w/ ML Special
In-progress: Supfire M6 3xXHP50.2 
Others: Nitecore EC23 | Nebo Twyst | Streamlight ProTac 1AA | TerraLux LightStar 100

Marc E
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Scallywag wrote:
D25C is probably what was meant, rather than D25D.

I was told the D25A had a press-fit pill by someone, so I never bothered to pick one up. Can’t recall who said it, though I think they were talking about cracking some part of a D25A Ti
Edit: Read from here


Oh yes, the D25C would make sense!
As far as the A goes, even though Djozz is talking about the Ti version i suspect the Alu version also has the press-fit pill, the difference is that the Alu version has a removable bezel which gives some access to the LED whereas the Ti version doesn’t. (From what i’ve read, never had the Ti version to check).

Edit: Just realised Djozz mentions his D25A Ti on the previous page, didn’t see that until after i replied.

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So, almost not worthy of mention… I have a Shadow JM20 that I dearly love, years ago I dropped in the XM-L2 4C but it always seemed underdriven. The factory springs are what I blamed, finally swapped in a set of BLF Gen. 3 springs, got just over 1 amp more out of the driver!!!

I also swapped the horribly cold emitter in my Sofirn SC31B, I installed an SST-20 4000k FD2 and it is wonderful now. This is really a very good light, the switch is stiff enough and recessed enough to carry in your pocket and at basically 4 amps it will not set your pocket on fire on high! The reflector in this light is about as perfect for the SST-20 and one could hope for, the beam is super clean!

EDC rotation:
FW1A, LH351D 4000k (second favorite)
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (favorite light!)
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k
S2+, XM-L2 T6 4C

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The_Fat_Controller wrote:
Yokiamy wrote:
Looking Sharp Fat Controller!

Waiting for beamshots!

Just received the 3030 gaskets today, now wait for the 22mm 14× 7135 driver to put in my L21A
Big Smile

I hate the waiting part! but those 14× 7135 seem to work ok i have one in my Jax only issue is they seem to cycle in strange order Low, High, Medium

Where did you order the 22mm 14×7135 board? I need to get ahold of one of those and Mountain is out.

EDC rotation:
FW1A, LH351D 4000k (second favorite)
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (favorite light!)
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k
S2+, XM-L2 T6 4C

jon_slider
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Marc E wrote:
I think you might be confusing the model names, there’s no D25D that i’m aware of?

thanks, youre right D25C and D3C have bezels
D25A and D3A I think have pressed pills, and no bezel

Rdubya18
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Old rotor , new knife .

ZEUSFL
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Awesome.

Imalent MS18
Acebeam X80-GT
Fireflies E07 x2
Emisar D4S V2 26650

MRsDNF
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Looks orsm Rdubya18. Have you made any others?

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

Rdubya18
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Thanks , first from a rotor.

DavidEF
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I never would have thought of making a knife from a rotor! Nice!

The Cycle of Goodness: “No one prospers without rendering benefit to others”
- The YKK Philosophy

The_Fat_Controller
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mattlward wrote:
The_Fat_Controller wrote:
Yokiamy wrote:
Looking Sharp Fat Controller!

Waiting for beamshots!

Just received the 3030 gaskets today, now wait for the 22mm 14× 7135 driver to put in my L21A
Big Smile

I hate the waiting part! but those 14× 7135 seem to work ok i have one in my Jax only issue is they seem to cycle in strange order Low, High, Medium

Where did you order the 22mm 14×7135 board? I need to get ahold of one of those and Mountain is out.

I ordered it from Here

Yokiamy
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That’s where i ordered it as well. It even got cheaper, i paid almost a dollar more Cash

  BLF

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it’s a good little driver for the money . personally prefer the P4000 it gives almost the same current on 1 cell but you have the option of adding a second cell, just in case ‘SHTF / teotwawki’

you’ll need a 20mm to 22mm adapter for the P4000 but its no biggie here’s the links to both

p4000

adapter

Either choice is a good choice I’ve abused both and they’re both still going strong

14× 7135 22mm

grin
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Rdubya18 wrote:

Old rotor , new knife .

I like that, have you tried a bearing race?

Unheard
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jon_slider wrote:
D25A and D3A I think have pressed pills, and no bezel

Yes to the latter, but it’s the older (somewhat ugly) Ti model. Still the same.

I’m about cooling the brass down. Glue should crack when the brass shrinks. Will the electronics and the glass survive a normal kitchen deep freezer? Otherwise I’d have to get cooler spray to apply it carefully to the thread, only cooling down some outside material.

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Simple LED swap on FW3T, from XPL-HI 3D into Nichia 219F.

Preparation..

Nichia 219F on Noctigon. I like the way Clemence build the pill container.

And found how THICK the stock MCPCB is. I need to add a spacer.

Soldered and added GITD tape on head’s inner wall.

To be honest, this is the worst soldering job I’ve ever done. I think my soldering iron need replacement, the heat wasn’t maximum.

And done..

3000K and rossy!

Rdubya18
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grin wrote:
Rdubya18 wrote:

Old rotor , new knife .

I like that, have you tried a bearing race?

No , haven’t tried a bearing race . Maybe after I finish this one , I’ll look into that . Thanks for the idea . I have been recycling / repurposing materials when I can figure a use for them.

contactcr
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I sliced two more LEDs today and made a quick video since a few pages back some questions came up how to do it.

My post with video link and a few extra details not described in the video: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/69569

Video:

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Rdubya18 wrote:

Old rotor , new knife .

Very neat, a nice karambit Thumbs Up

jon_slider
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beads on left under incandescent, beads on right illuminated by V10r Ti w E21a 3500k:

V11r head @ 0.01 lumens w E21a 3500k

V10r Ti w 4000k XP-G2

click for beamshots of E21a 3500k in V10r Ti and V11r

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lumenzilla][quote=Rdubya18 wrote:

Old rotor , new knife

Very neat, a nice karambit Thumbs Up


KB1428 “Live Life WOT

Rdubya18
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That gave me a good laugh. It’s not really a very practical type knife .

contactcr
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I think maukka, TK, probably bob all have something similar but I decided my mobile modding station needed a bit of light and I just couldn’t fathom working on high CRI flashlights and having a low CRI desk light.

The arm is huge, probably overkill for this size desk but if i want a really floody option I can get it real high up or use it on the opposite end of the desk, so i’ll keep the bigger swing arm. Pretty popular and affordable ~95CRI Viltrox L116T light with a (optional) DC adapter.

Parts:

Adjustable clamp on boom with 1/4 stud:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BLQF41P/

Viltrox light:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D8TTFSR/

DC Power supply:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HNL5D56/

Bonus tip:

You can see my ridiculous haul of optics from Yajiamei. Add a bunch of shit to your cart and do the classic “order but dont pay” then send a message to them to adjust the shipping costs. Thank me later.

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