What did you mod today?

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pinkpanda3310
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I’ve had this venom orion for a while and just got around to modding the tail. The stock tail seems… unfinished or something. Just a poor design in my view. The switch boot is just pressed in. So I removed the boot and McClicky to install a new switch with a gchart battery indicator and cut some threads for a retaining ring.

I forgot to take a pic before I threaded the tail so the first pic is a stock pic of what it used to looked like…

I can’t show you the tail light in action because that’s a faulty led4power switch and I don’t have any other spares switches at the moment (on order) Crying

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That beam looks intense MascaratumB.
Is it just a small white Omten your after pp?

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

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I removed the omten, it was knackered, but still couldn’t find life on the board so I stripped all the components except the LEDs. Not only did they light up but they started changing colour Shocked I want to try and use it again but think it’s probably beyond my ability.

I had a good dig around and found a lone omten that worked and a BG lighted tail board so I think I’ve got the parts I need to finish this mod now Party

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MRsDNF wrote:
That beam looks intense MascaratumB. Is it just a small white Omten your after pp?

Yup, it is, but it is not perfect! On the weekend I will check how good it looks in pitch black Silly
Hunting white walls with this led ain’t funny Big Smile
Thank you Wink

[REVIEWS] ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// BRINYTE: T28 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// FIREFLIES: ROT66 GEN II /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// SKILHUNT: M150 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 / TO50R / E19 /// XTAR: PB2 Charger ///

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2/// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

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djozz
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Your tailcap solution looks so much better than stock! Thumbs Up

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pinkpanda3310 wrote:
I can’t show you the tail light in action because that’s a faulty led4power switch and I don’t have any other spares switches at the moment (on order) Crying

Great looking light, pp!

Curious… why stack two illuminated tailcap boards?

pinkpanda3310
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Was just using it as a dummy for fitment purposes. Not actually going to use the L4P board. Sorry for the confusion.

I have better plans for the second one you sent me Wink

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If you need a switch give me a holler.

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

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Beer Beer

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Moded the Skilhunt M200 .

I put pebbled TIR , replacing the SMO reflector and AR Coated glass lens. I kept the black gasket around the LED, and I put a black o-ring a between the TIR and the bezel (it has a blue one originally, but it was causing some blueish shift in the beam with the TIR).

Here is how the beam looks with the TIR. It has, obviously, less throw, less intensity, it is floodier, but has no artifacts on the beam!

[REVIEWS] ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// BRINYTE: T28 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// FIREFLIES: ROT66 GEN II /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// SKILHUNT: M150 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 / TO50R / E19 /// XTAR: PB2 Charger ///

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2/// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

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Tom E
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Finished a mod (finally) on a fairly big zoomie - the Xanes B195 P10, bought here on Ali. Came to my attention in the Zoomie thread here, Texas Toasted posting here. It's listed here on BG, but a bit pricey.

Originally planned on a SBT90.2 but decided against it because I got a SBT90.2 in a 1504 already, and the heat is not handled very well. So, a white flat W1 will do with a FET+1 driver running my tweaked Anduril. Plan is to use lighter gauge long leads for the LED's, since they already have to be long through the tube.

 

From the listing:

 

 

Stock parts. Notice the long wires that are needed, and the white plastic centering ring will be tossed.

USB Charger/powerbank support:

Driver electronics (partial):

Switch, LED's, and more driver parts:

Driver parts stripped:

 

Lots of wiring needed to make use of the LED's on each side of the switch, plus switch wire, and batt+ to the board:

FET+1/Anduril installed. Spring replaced a small brass button. I wanted heavier, more wiring on Batt- grnd to help with drawing heat away from the driver, since it's not properly mounted. The Batt+ to LED is already taken care of. The green LED's go to MCU pin #2, while the blue LED's go th MCU pin #7. Anduril supports it on both pins, but currently they do the same thing. I was able to use 2 greens and 2 blues, half of what the light has. The stock driver/MCU controls 8 LED's individually from 6 I/O pins. It provides both + and - to the LED's. If the MCU switches the polarity, the other LED in each pair lights up, so they must be alternating polarity to light up both, probably via PWM's. For this driver with the ATtiny85, I simply wired one side to ground so I could control 1/2 of them.

Copper round, 14 gauge, on backside of the shelf, thermal epoxied in, reflow of the W1 on a stock 3535 XP MCPCB:

Drill/tapped 2 screws, used MX4 under the MCPCB:

Close-up of reflow job, I think it's ok, not perfectly centered:

Backside after mounted:

 

26 AWG long LED wires got 5 amps on a Samsung 35E, but want to do better. Tried 24 AWG and it bumped a little to ~5.2 amps, so I added a 22 AWG spring bypass on the tail.

Here's how it looks:

 

Compared to a couple of other similar throwers, 1504 on the left, Noctigon K1 on the right:

Now with a B158 on the right:

Results:

 Recorded 717 kcd taken at 5 meters (just over 1 mile), on a 4.19V Samsung 35E. I think that's in the balllpark of what I'd expect. The hot spot is tiny - somewhat difficult to get the reading but after some re-positioning of the meter, I could clearly hold it in the 700 -717 kcd range.

 Sorry, didn't get a firm recorded measure on the lens width but when I did measure it, I found it to be about dead-on with the 1504's lens, though the Xanes is plastic, not glass like the 1504.

 The green and blue LED's look awesome, specially with Anduril 2 level brightness controls.

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Tom, have you considered potting the driver to improve thermals?

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Nice mod Tom! The amount of copper around the led may be a bit plenty but the stock shelf did need improving so it can’t hurt Smile Great throw!

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Agro wrote:
Tom, have you considered potting the driver to improve thermals?

Well, I still want to have the ability to reflash so not sure if potting the backside maybe would do much?

djozz wrote:
Nice mod Tom! The amount of copper around the led may be a bit plenty but the stock shelf did need improving so it can't hurt Smile Great throw!

Thanx! These zoomies have a terrible time to get rid of the heat. The 1504 and B158 shown both have SBT90.2's in them and both exhibit poor heat distribution - the head stays cool for a while and output drops quick. They both have relatively small brass pills so this light's 'shelf' is decent. Was debating to add much more copper since there's plenty of room.

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Very cool mod. I wonder how the glass lens compares to the plastic, are they swappable?

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flightless22 wrote:
Very cool mod. I wonder how the glass lens compares to the plastic, are they swappable?

Hhmm, I'd have to check - I'm thinking not because the plastic one has a flat rim around it, but not sure of the 1504's glass one does as well.

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Tom E wrote:

Agro wrote:
Tom, have you considered potting the driver to improve thermals?

Well, I still want to have the ability to reflash so not sure if potting the backside maybe would do much?

I’m not sure the FET driver needs much thermal consideration, but if there were something to gain, I think it would be cool if you wired up the USB port to the MCU for external flashing. MikeC did something similar once I believe..

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MascaratumB wrote:
Yesterday I moded 2 lights!
I had a Convoy S2 with SMO reflector, Osram White Flat and Led4Power driver. I decided I would take the driver and led out of it and instal them in an EagleEye X3R host.

The EagleEye X3R is a micro-USB rechargeable flashlight, with XP-L HD Led, and a 3 modes + Strobe (with double click) user interface.

So I took the driver out, took the led out of it and after HOURS, I managed to make it more or less good with the Osram LED. It is incredibly difficult to put this led under a SMO reflector, specially when the reflector is screwed in the flashlight bezel and turns when screwing the bezel in Tired Facepalm

But I managed to get a so-so instalation.

I also re-used the Convoy S2 host.
I had a 5000K Nichia Led waiting to be installed (it was from the Jaxman E3) and a Biscotti Driver with just 4 × 7135 chips. I put the original OP reflector et voilá, a very decent tint and beam with High CRI and a nice form factor Wink

Oh, the X3R is compatible with the Convoy 18350 tubes Wink

The X3R!

!{width:89%}https://i.imgur.com/lsoSbWM.jpg!


.
WOW, That is an amazing beam from a small light !! GREAT JOB !! Thumbs Up
.

CNC & Manual Machinist. Think outside the box too long , cannot find your way back in.

Never give up, Never surrender. Make someone Smile today.

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CNCman wrote:
. WOW, That is an amazing beam from a small light !! GREAT JOB !! Thumbs Up .

Thanks CNCman!

BTW, I did some more beamshots in this thread: http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1632356#comment-1632356

Here’s one of them, even during daylight :

[REVIEWS] ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// BRINYTE: T28 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// FIREFLIES: ROT66 GEN II /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// SKILHUNT: M150 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 / TO50R / E19 /// XTAR: PB2 Charger ///

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2/// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

OL Contest 2019

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Hi, chris Big Smile
The XHP 70 runs surprisingly long time before getting warm, so I did not try to mod for heat sinking. Also just kept the stock driver.
This one is too difficult to mod for heat problems because the led is not directly mounted to the outside of the flashlight. Beer

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Never give up, Never surrender. Make someone Smile today.

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Tom E wrote:

flightless22 wrote:
Very cool mod. I wonder how the glass lens compares to the plastic, are they swappable?

Hhmm, I'd have to check - I'm thinking not because the plastic one has a flat rim around it, but not sure of the 1504's glass one does as well.

Made the measurements and was able to swap in the glass 1504 lens. 

                       Bezel       Bezel       Lens

                       Outer     Opening    Outer     Bubble

Zanes X915:    67.0        62.0         65.5        61.0 mm

           1504:    67.0        59.2         66.6        62.1 mm

 With the glass lens, I measured 5.4 amps on a BT 35E at 4.18V: 650 kcd at 5m, so less than the stock plastic lens. It appears to be focused but there's some non-uniform artifacts around the hotspot. 

Here's the tool I use to remove the bezel, using the flat ends (screwdriver type):

Business ends of the 3 modded zoomies:

Close-up of the Xanes with stock plastic:

Now with the 1504 glass, not much difference:

Wall shot with the glass lens. You cane see some of the odd patterns around the hot spot, more pronounced in real life:

With the 1504 SBT90.2, should have blacked out the reflective parts, believe it's the rim of the brass pill:

Here's the Noctigon K1 w/W1:

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MascaratumB wrote:
Yesterday I moded 2 lights!
I had a Convoy S2 with SMO reflector, Osram White Flat and Led4Power driver. I decided I would take the driver and led out of it and instal them in an EagleEye X3R host.

The EagleEye X3R is a micro-USB rechargeable flashlight, with XP-L HD Led, and a 3 modes + Strobe (with double click) user interface.

So I took the driver out, took the led out of it and after HOURS, I managed to make it more or less good with the Osram LED. It is incredibly difficult to put this led under a SMO reflector, specially when the reflector is screwed in the flashlight bezel and turns when screwing the bezel in Tired Facepalm

But I managed to get a so-so instalation.

I also re-used the Convoy S2 host.
I had a 5000K Nichia Led waiting to be installed (it was from the Jaxman E3) and a Biscotti Driver with just 4 × 7135 chips. I put the original OP reflector et voilá, a very decent tint and beam with High CRI and a nice form factor Wink

Oh, the X3R is compatible with the Convoy 18350 tubes Wink

The X3R!


Does the USB charging still work after your driver swap?

EDC Rotation: ZL SC62(w) | Jaxman E2L XP-G2 5A | Purple S2+ XPL-HI U6-3A | D4 w/ Luxeon V | RRT-01 | Purple FW3A, 4000K SST20
EagTac D25C Ti | DQG Slim AA Ti | Jaxman E3 | UF-T1 by CRX | Olight S1 | Klarus Mini One Ti
L6 XHP70.2 P2 4000K FET+7135 | Jaxman M8 | MF02 | Jaxman Z1 CULNM1.TG | Blue S2+ w/ ML Special
Unfinished: Supfire M6 3xXHP50.2 
Others: Nitecore EC23 | Nebo Twyst | Streamlight ProTac 1AA | TerraLux LightStar 100

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Scallywag wrote:

Does the USB charging still work after your driver swap?

Nope, that’s the bad thing about this mod Oops
The driver I am using (from led4power) doesn’t have charging, so it doesn’t work Oops

I kept the driver, though, in case I want to reverse the mod, or in case I can build a charger with it! (not sure how… Facepalm )

[REVIEWS] ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// BRINYTE: T28 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// FIREFLIES: ROT66 GEN II /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// SKILHUNT: M150 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 / TO50R / E19 /// XTAR: PB2 Charger ///

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2/// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

OL Contest 2019

GIVEAWAY: 1 / 2

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Lexel wrote:

Looks cool, which light does that fit in?
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The wife got this little light for me off of Ebay a year or so ago. Can’t remember for what occasion. The stock emitter was not really my thing. I had replaced it with something, LH351 of some sort I think. I like the little thing but it’s not exactly a great EDC light. Well I had it apart for the second time swapping out the emitter yet again. This time to a lost but now found 219b. I had a few extra Reylight Pineapple AA pocket clips looking for a new home and what do you know, they fit the tail cap on that little light just perfect. Besides making it easier to carry, the clip also gives you something to hold onto while working the tail switch. It’s glass smooth and very slippery with even the driest of hands.

Nothing fancy other than that but, what a difference those two minor tweaks made.

2020-03-06-21-19-25-234ss

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toddcshoe wrote:
The wife got this little light for me off of Ebay a year or so ago. Can’t remember for what occasion……………..

Lucky you. Sweet little light. I would already be happy if mine bought me a Corona-dud.

You are a flashaholic if you are forced to come out of the closet, to make room for more flashlights.

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djozz wrote:
Lexel wrote:
Looks cool, which light does that fit in?

Manker U23

pinkpanda3310
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pinkpanda3310 wrote:
I’ve had this venom orion for a while and just got around to modding the tail. The stock tail seems… unfinished or something. Just a poor design in my view. The switch boot is just pressed in. So I removed the boot and McClicky to install a new switch with a gchart battery indicator and cut some threads for a retaining ring.

I forgot to take a pic before I threaded the tail so the first pic is a stock pic of what it used to looked like…

I can’t show you the tail light in action because that’s a faulty led4power switch and I don’t have any other spares switches at the moment (on order) Crying


After getting together the parts I needed I had a lot of trouble trying to get this lighted tail to function properly. After a lot of help from Mr gchart I got it working Party

Going from a press fit rubber boot to a retaining ring and battery indicator tail this light is on a whole new level now Cool

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Cool well done!

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