What did you mod today?

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WillyD
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There have been a few threads pop up lately regarding collars and RLT. Since I’ve been locked down in the house I thought I’d experiment a little with a UF-1504. So, this whole project probably took no longer than 20 minutes. Sanded both ends of a Maglight AA Mini reflector as it was the smallest reflector I was willing to destroy. Obviously not spherical, but it looked pretty close. I didn’t bother smoothing out the sandmarks as you can see. Put a coat of flat black paint on the outside.

I did no tuning or calibrating or anything like that. Just sanded it and guessed it looked about right. Light has a dedomed XPG. Took readings at 10 meters with an HS1010.
Without collar: 308 kcd
With collar: 384 kcd

I swear this light used to put out about 400 kcd when I built it 5 or so years ago. I probably haven’t touched it in as long. I was thinking of replacing the led sometime in the near future. Anyway, I’d say score with the Maglight Mini reflector. Once you Dremel off the outer edge it fits nicely in the 1504 pill.

Agro
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Nice. Smile

Nicolicous
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Nice mod Willy

any artifact rings around the hot spot?

Nico -.-

Tom E
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Nice bump! Maybe elevating it a bit will get better results, but still a cheap bump.

WillyD
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Thanks. It’s not ringy at all after I painted everything black. There is one very faint large outer ring, but I’m not sure it it’s possible to eliminate it. I did notice the led seems more defined on a wall shot with the collar. I can even see the outline of the square pad.

I will try moving the collar up a bit and taking more readings. This light is reading very low for some reason. Maybe because it has sat for so long. I think I’ll try sanding the solder blobs on the ends of the springs first.

JaredM
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Cleaning the lens and all electrical contact points could really make a difference. Once you have it all tuned-up I’d love to see you repeat your w w/o collar readings. What cell and driver are you using?

Tom E
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I got a SBT90.2 in a 1504 pill - it does 500+ kcd. Would be interesting to try a DIY collar on it...

jon_slider
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Niteye Eye10 Rotary

219b 3000k 9050 D200 (trailhunter LED),
Upgraded mcpcb, reflector and centering ring (moderator007 finds),
Driver has Strobe at double twist,
Sapphire lens (Archibald Tuttle tip)
Remove detente ball and spring, relube with Nyogel 767a high damping grease, and install glow marker (tx pinkpanda) on tail.

Whats not to Love? Smile

"High CRI lights for sale":http://budgetlightforum.com/node/72660

Agro
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What’s up with this reflector showing 4 bright spots?

jon_slider
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Agro wrote:
What’s up with this reflector showing 4 bright spots?

It seems that quad effect is related to having the camera closer to the LED than the focal distance of the reflector.

Notice that reflector in the Eye10 is not all lit up, because I am holding my iPhone really close, hoping to show that the LED centering, turned out Really Well!

I checked and the same short focal distance quad effect happens with other lights.. once I pull back to fill the reflector with the light of the LED, the effect disappears

this is a reflector from a Maratac CR123
up close:

farther away:

this is a reflector from a V10a
up close:

pulled back:

"High CRI lights for sale":http://budgetlightforum.com/node/72660

Agro
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Yeah, but I would expect it to show more or less a ring. I guess large die size (and therefore more pronounced squareness) relative to ref size plays a role here…

KawiBoy1428
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BLF GT White Flat 1 WHY! PITA Facepalm (Got bored, waiting on parts for a 90.2 build)

2S2P to 4P Carrier mod… simplicity at its finest… Mtn. SRK/M6 Linear Driver.. 5.2amps Big Spring….Simple 3 mode.. Hmmm so far so good.. 725lm….680lms until batteries are DEAD! Let the games BEGIN! Big Smile Thumbs Up

KB1428 “Live Life WOT

Yokiamy
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Nice work KB!
Any throw numbers?

pinkpanda3310
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I’m curious to know numbers too. Great mod btw Kawiboy Thumbs Up

jon_slider
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Agro wrote:
I would expect it to show more or less a ring.

here is an example of the beam from the stock reflector, that I removed

and an example of the beam from the upgraded reflector, that you noticed has the quad effect

this reflector has a smaller hole at the bottom, both LED are 219b

"High CRI lights for sale":http://budgetlightforum.com/node/72660

Tom E
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pinkpanda3310 wrote:
I'm curious to know numbers too. Great mod btw Kawiboy :THUMBS-UP:

He just wanna make us beg... K, i'm begging... smile

KawiBoy1428
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Just over 1.3Mcd so far. Looks like more to be had. Got 13500 LUX at 32.4ft. Prolly need to measure further out, but it’s raining now, maybe after or later tonight?

. I came up with a new or better way to shim the reflector up… and keep from spinning the shims and the big spacer bar, to keep from sheering the leads off… got real lucky didn’t fry the driver Facepalm

. Also just a couple thousands off center JACKS the spot up, with this tiny emitter to this big ass reflector it is a BIG DEAL. I maybe have .009” slop in the mcpcb diameter to the centering block I.D. Got a couple Idea’s on how to tighten it up, so I don’t keep losing it…after bumping it around during shim changes…

Don’t let the pic fool ya… that spot is just a Micro Dot… unbelievably small.. Haha…shit, you can see how small the beam is narrowing down at that range Shocked …… Crying Kind of sad, I’m just doing this for something to do… it will all come down and go away, once I get my parts.. It’s been fun.. Big Smile Thumbs Up

KB1428 “Live Life WOT

pinkpanda3310
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That tree looks like a big candle LOL

Nice work

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pinkpanda3310 wrote:
That tree looks like a big candle LOL

Nice work


Might be a first for KawiBoy1428’s local fire department. “I was just shinning my flashlight up in that there tree and it caught fire”. Big Smile
Rayoui
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I grabbed a Convoy M21C with the intention of finding something interesting to slap in the host. I only played with it for a few minutes before tearing into it. The SST40 is a good performer but I don’t really care for the tint.

I have been wanting to try a Luxeon V 4000K so this was a good opportunity. I figured with the relatively large die and medium size reflector it would make a reasonably throwy beam; great for my nighttime trail walks. The M21C has very thick walls on the head and it takes a long time for it to heat up. Perfect for sustaining high currents for a long time.

I used one of the nifty remote MOSFET drivers from led4power. I don’t know if it really makes much of a difference as far as thermal performance but it’s something different at it looks neat so I figured I’d give it a try. I set the driver to CC mode with a max of 7A.

The M21C is designed for a 22mm driver but the LD-B4 is only 20mm. This means I had to solder the driver to the retaining ring. This isn’t really a problem, but I wanted to solder the wires onto the MCPCB first because the head is very deep and I didn’t want to be fiddling with all those tiny wires down inside there. After soldering the wires to the driver, I gave it four or five anti-clockwise rotations before screwing the driver/retaining ring into position. I was worried I’d twist off some of the tiny signal wires but it ended up working out just fine. There was plenty of space in the cavity for all the extra length of the wires.

I really like the Luxeon V. The tint is very neutral; not pink but doesn’t appear green either. It’s very uniform with minimal tint shift across the beam. It’s not high CRI but colors appear natural. The hotspot ends up being just a hair tighter than a C8+ with XM-L2. Thumbs Up



jon_slider
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Sunwayman V10a
mod to 219b 3000k 9080, Sapphire lens, relubed control ring with Nyogel 767a, attached some tiny trits to the body.

Makes about 90 lumens on AA Eneloop, about 180 lumens on LiIon. The minimum mode is an Ultra Low Firefly of 0.005 lumens. Love

"High CRI lights for sale":http://budgetlightforum.com/node/72660

MascaratumB
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Great mod jon_slider Wink
Those little trits looke nice too Wink

[REVIEWS] ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 // AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 // BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 // BRINYTE: T28 // DQG: AA Slim Ti // FIREFLIES: ROT66 GEN II // HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA // KLARUS: XT1C // LIVARNOLUX: 314791 // LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 // NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 // ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 // OLIGHT: M2R Warrior // ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro // ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 // SKILHUNT: M150 / M200 // SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B // WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 / TO50R / E19 // XTAR: PB2 Charger // Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 // TIR: 1 / 2 // Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 /// My Collection /// My Review's Blog (PT) /// OL Contest 2019 /// GIVEAWAY: 1 / 2

NeutralFan
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Nice job Rayoui!

I’d rather use my flashlight around the house than turn on the lights.

Scallywag
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Rayoui wrote:
I really like the Luxeon V. The tint is very neutral; not pink but doesn’t appear green either. It’s very uniform with minimal tint shift across the beam. It’s not high CRI but colors appear natural. The hotspot ends up being just a hair tighter than a C8+ with XM-L2. Thumbs Up




Yes! I love the Luxeon V. I’ll take it over SST40 every time, and a lot of HCRI emitters too.

EDC Rotation: ZL SC62(w) | Jaxman E2L XP-G2 5A | Purple S2+ XPL-HI U6-3A | D4 w/ Luxeon V | RRT-01 | Purple FW3A, 4000K SST20
EagTac D25C Ti | DQG Slim AA Ti | Jaxman E3 | UF-T1 by CRX | Nitecore EX11.2
L6 XHP70.2 P2 4000K FET+7135 | Jaxman M8 | MF02 | Jaxman Z1 CULNM1.TG | Blue S2+ w/ ML Special
Unfinished: Supfire M6 3xXHP50.2, Sofirn C8F, Sofirn SP70
Others: Nitecore EC23 | Nebo Twyst | Streamlight ProTac 1AA | TerraLux LightStar 100

jon_slider
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This is an Eye10 modded to triple N219b 9080 by pinkpanda

It arrived with the ball and spring removed, to eliminate the detentes on the dial. It had very light damping grease, and was totally smooth, like melted butter.

I decided to reinstall the ball and spring, after filling in the detente holes with JB Weld and repacking with heavy damping grease, Nyogel 767a

The heavy damping works well to prevent the dial from moving unintentionally.

However, I could still feel a slight feedback from the ball crossing the filled in detente holes, and the heavy grease prevented the one detente I actually wanted, at off, from working.

So, I took the light apart again, and removed the ball and spring. Now Im happier. Smile

"High CRI lights for sale":http://budgetlightforum.com/node/72660

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763-A2-B68-AEB4-46-A9-B531-BB2-D2-E226-DEE E97615-DE-032-F-47-E7-8687-20-DF887-D9207 63-E5-E4-E3-766-C-4299-AD12-717-D650-C793-E

Nodded a cyan s2+ today
Nichia 219c , copper 1 cent as the spacer , fatter glass , it fits very nicely and doesn’t get as hot as the ylp t95 from where I got the nichia from

I’m surprised that it doesn’t get super hot with the bits I could use

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djozz
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djozz in the Tool AA ti thread wrote:
I got my Tool AA Ti today. It was an impulse buy and I never looked much into this thread or in Chibi’s review, but there are too many dumb features to leave this light unmodded:
  • 10mA parasitic drain is unworkable, drains the battery in 5 days !
  • golden clip is ugly, it gets my black clip from the alu one.
  • memory! Sick
  • XP-L2 Sick
  • 7400K Sick
  • but the worst thing: it is a shelf design with the shelf therefore being titanium, the ledboard is nice copper but the heat goes nowhere after that. I’m not surprised that ledwires unsolder themselves.

So: other driver, better led, aqua switch leds at lower current, I can not fix that shelf but I will craft a new copper board that will reach the very edge to bypass that shelf (the stock board stops short of the edge).

Things to do…

I did things today, and yesterday. I managed to fix everything apart from the unfixable ti shelf. It became so good that this is the first titanium light to become my EDC.

1) the 10mA drain when off in the stock light was a guarantee that your battery is always empty when you need your EDC (and that it possibly drains your battery to death if you forget it a bit longer). So on the new driver I installed a 680 Ohm bleeder resistor, the two resistors in the tail that are inline with the tail leds were changed to 8.4 kOhm each and the leds were replaced by 485nm leds that are more visible to the eye than blue, btw at these low currents the colour they emit seems sea-green: a bit over 500nm to me. Also bits of aluminium tape were sticked to the sides of the switch to guide a bit more light out of the tail. The current when off is now 0.36 mA which is 30 times lower than stock and should last for 3 months on a battery charge. The amount of tail light seems a bit less than stock but is well visible in the dark as locator light.

2) the led was replaced with a 3500K 90CRI LH351D (from the batch I bought from contactcr) that I sliced so that the final CCT is about 3000K. I wanted to create a new customised ledboard but decided for the stock board, it seemed to me that the gains in thermal performance would not be high (at most from very very bad to very bad). I did very carefully apply a thin and even layer of AS5 to at least do something for the heat transfer.

3) the stock driver would have been fine if it did not have an ancient 2012-type user interface (memory without direct acces to low which is terrible for my EDC use, low is way too high, bad mode spacing) so it had to be replaced. The new driver is a Banggood BLF-A6 driver, my all-time favorite driver that is in all my EDC’s for years now. But since this host needs a 15mm driver I transferred the components from a BG BLF-A6 driver to a custom Oshpark board (designed years ago by wight, https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/oR9HyMcu ), only the FET was replaced by a smaller LFPAK33-size FET (from Mtn). The edge of the driver was re-shaped to fit the non-circular cavity in the Tool AA ti.

4) the components and traces on the driver are fairly close to the edge, so the driver cavity was lined with a strip of kapton tape to prevent possible shorts with the shell. The stock driver was glued in place, the new driver is pulled in place by exact fitting short led wires, then clamped by the battery tube.

5) the driver board is a bit thicker than stock, which caused a small gap between the battery tube and head, with the disc sander I sanded about 0.5mm from the tube to close the gap.

6) (not visible in the picture because it was not done yet) after assembly the beam appeared to have a faint but annoying ring a bit outside the hotspot, it may already have been present in the stock light. The ring originates from light reflected from the side of the narrow reflector hole which has considerable thickness and is close to the led die so it catches some light. The solution was ditching the stock centerpiece, replace it with a standard “butterfly” type 3535 centerpiece and reaming the reflector hole to exactly fit the new centerpiece. The new centerpiece appears to give perfect focus to the domeless led and the beam is also perfect, a nice evenly illuminated but distinct hotspot (the way I like best) and perfect even spill.

7) I did not like the golden clip, and even the black clip of my alu Tool AA is not great, I do not use the clip anyway so it will remain clip-less and will make a nice custom lanyard from thin paracord.

Performance
A direct drive LH351D is easily too much for the heat trap that a all-titanium head is, so the tail spring was not bypassed and I used a yellow “3A” Vapcell 14500 instead of the “10A” H10.

In 4-mode setting I measured 6.5lumen->65lumen->350lumen->650lumen. I have not measured current yet but my guess is that the 350lumen setting has about the same current as the 650lumen max of the stock XP-L2/driver, so already not really sustainable in this host. The 650lumen max in the new situation (guess=3Acurrent) is dangerously hot now, although I let the light run until the 40-second stepdown (built-in feature of the BLF-A6 driver) and that did not cause a meltdown yet.

The setting that I will probably use most is the 65 lumen. The light is pretty throwy so that already gives a fairly bright hotspot. Here is the hotspot tint at 65 lumen setting:

Summary of the tint: Love

I always wanted a titanium EDC, I had an Eagletac D25A and D25C once but I thought they looked not nice and the user interface was too complicated and mediocre. The Tool AA ti is pretty, very compact and has my ideal form factor, and now with a new nice led, beam, and my favourite driver I’m really happy and will check it out as EDC the coming period.

The nice hotspot at low setting:

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A lot of work but the results seem worth it, nice job.

Edit; no clear switch boot in parts drawer?

jon_slider
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djozz wrote:
3) the stock driver would have been fine if it did not have an ancient 2012-type user interface (memory without direct acces to low which is terrible for my EDC use, low is way too high, bad mode spacing) so it had to be replaced.

congrats on your Awesome Mods!

but, the low mode of 6.5 lumens with the new driver is not much different than stock.. is that as low as the driver can go, or just your personal preference does not include a sublumen level? (I have a BLF A6 driven S41, and it certainly can go sublumen)

"High CRI lights for sale":http://budgetlightforum.com/node/72660

contactcr
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jon_slider wrote:
djozz wrote:
3) the stock driver would have been fine if it did not have an ancient 2012-type user interface (memory without direct acces to low which is terrible for my EDC use, low is way too high, bad mode spacing) so it had to be replaced.

congrats on your Awesome Mods!

but, the low mode of 6.5 lumens with the new driver is not much different than stock.. is that as low as the driver can go, or just your personal preference does not include a sublumen level? (I have a BLF A6 driven S41, and it certainly can go sublumen)

Moon is only in the 7 mode group. The old A6 UI is not full bistro. I assume moon in 7 group would be sublumen.

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