What did you mod today?

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vwpieces
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That VG 10 is from the TF GB, the ones that have the LB MCPCB and aluminum disc under the emitter. Making more space inside than the normal VG10.
Copper spacer used was Kirill’s M2 and I reduced the OD of the brass ring to fit. Spacer works without mods.

RobertB
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vwpieces wrote:
That VG 10 is from the TF GB, the ones that have the LB MCPCB and aluminum disc under the emitter. Making more space inside than the normal VG10. Copper spacer used was Kirill’s M2 and I reduced the OD of the brass ring to fit. Spacer works without mods.

Great, thanks. My VG10 doesn’t have the extra LB & spacer under the mcpcb. Will have to order one from him.

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Firelight2 wrote:
Modded a blue Convoy S2+ host with metal clicky that I’ve had laying around for awhile.
  • Emitter: triple XPL-HI 5A2 4000K
  • Optic: Carclo 10507
  • Driver: DrJones H17F with lucidrv 2

I started by shortening the pill, the same way as on a previous mod: modding the convoy s2+ mini

After shortening the pill, I decided that rather than making this an 18500 light like the previous mod, for this mod I wanted the light to use 18650. I also wasn’t going to install a side-switch since the whole point of these newer S2+ was to take advantage of the superb metal clicky.

With the shortened pill, there was far too much space in the battery compartment for an 18650. Initially, I was thinking to try my hand at shortening the battery tube via the “human lathe” method. However with a bit more thought I realized there was a much easier way to shorten the light:

I pulled out the hacksaw and chopped the back of the head off. Then I filed a couple mm off the end of the screw threads at both ends of the battery tube. Result is a Convoy S2+ triple that is 12mm shorter than stock (104 mm modded compared to 118 mm stock). The modded light can also use the 18350 battery tube and an 18350 cell (total length 72 mm with 18350).

Additional work to be done on this light:

  • grind off the bottom-most threads on the head to make room for the battery tube o-ring (until this is done there’s no o-ring between the tube and head).
  • wait for illuminated switch assemblies to arrive.
  • possible remove blue anodizing and polish the bare aluminum.

Now I want to see some pictures of that !
I scratched my head multiple time to find how to shorten the S2+ and even dremat of using a 18650 with the 18350 tube Ughh
YOur solution seems to be much more doable !

"Hey -X3-, do you have a flashlight ?"   "-X3-, can I borrow one of your flashlights ?" 

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Firelight2
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X3 wrote:
… Now I want to see some pictures of that ! I scratched my head multiple time to find how to shorten the S2+ and even dremat of using a 18650 with the 18350 tube Ughh Your solution seems to be much more doable !

I made a build-thread for the mod Shortening the Convoy S2+

With a little more work, the entire light is now 102mm long, compared to 118mm for stock. Removing 16mm really makes for a much more pocketable light. Here’s a picture:

CRX
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vwpieces
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I like that CRX.

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I replaced the XP-G2 R5 with a dedomed XP-G2 S4 2B and made it direct drive with all springs bypassed in a Lumintop Hunter T5.

Next to a Thorfire VG10

55mm Head

Before Mod XP-G2 R5

After Mod Dedomed XP-G2 S4 2B

C8 Dedomed XM-L2 U4 1A

Rufusbduck
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I made copper ugly.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

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Nice work djburkes !
I was searching this lumintop for a while but i still can’t find it near me Big Smile

Rufusbduck wrote:
I made copper ugly. !{width:100%}http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/q619/Rufusbduck/ABDF550B-45A6-471B-A...!

What ! How ? Too much heat ?

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A temporary condition fortunately and a product of the brazing process. The heat scale was easily removed along with the brazing flux.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

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KawiBoy1428 wrote:
Purchased some A6 tubes when I found I could re-thread them with a 7/8-20 Die and they fit the KRONOAS X6 Copper /copper triple and also the EE BLF SE X6 triple, nice full round battery tube, love it! Too bad they don’t sell the Black A6 switches, no biggy, I would rather carry these bad boys instead, so the S41’s can sit in their box for-ever! Big Smile

The full tube feels so much better on both, but specially on the heavy Copper Brute! Thumbs Up


I ask BG if they would sell the Aluminum Black S41/A6 switch cap seeing they already sold the SS and the SS Colored Cap. Well they listened…http://www.banggood.com/Astrolux-S41-Aero-Grade-Aluminum-Alloy-LED-Flash...

KB1428 “Live Life WOT”

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ThorFire S70S has a non-DTP copper MCPCB…
I could have ordered a DTP one from Banggood, but didn’t want to wait another 4 weeks, so:

The white paint didn’t cover the mess all too well, but who cares.
Protruding bits for thermal path to reflector.

..waiting for parts..

Still looking for 5” parabolic reflector (for recoil light)

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Cool adaptation, Jerommel! Cool

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Shocked It’s better than from the store
-X3-
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Wow, really impressive !

"Hey -X3-, do you have a flashlight ?"   "-X3-, can I borrow one of your flashlights ?" 

My Flashlight public album (mods, emitter swaps, eye candy)

My reviews channel (French language, Olight, Thorfire : 30+ lights tested)

My personal channel (including Olight SR mini, S1, S2, S1A and S-mini disassembly)

M4DM4X blog, saves you $$$ 

everydaysurvivalgear
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I modded my BLF A6 with a SMO reflector and Dedomed the LED its throws okay now. It can easily been seen past 100 meters.

Also put an XPL with direct drive into my BLF D80.

Jerommel
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Dear oh dear…
Thanks for the compliments, but the success was very short lived…
I killed the XHP70…
A week ago i killed a XHP50.2
In both cases i nicked the dome and ruined the LED.. FacepalmTired

..waiting for parts..

Still looking for 5” parabolic reflector (for recoil light)

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Jerommel wrote:
Dear oh dear…
Thanks for the compliments, but the success was very short lived…
I killed the XHP70…
A week ago i killed a XHP50.2
In both cases i nicked the dome and ruined the LED.. FacepalmTired

How did you kill it by nicking the dome?
Did you like poke it with a knife and break a wire or something?
djozz
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Had this light (Ultrafire V10) waiting for a mod for ages (think it is slightly big for a 16340 light) but yesterday I modded it with lighted tail (lime, orange, red), BG bistro driver (with fix), and Nichia 219B V1 sm453 R9080 led (from the great effort of Clemence et al.) on 16mm Noctigon. The driver floating above the contact plate, lighted ring version with 3×2leds (3×5.9KOhm+5.9kOhm in series with everything).

The lighted tail needs the leds a bit more balanced in output some time, and I had to add the extra 5.9kOhm resistor to restore the user interface, so it is quite dim now (which is ok) and everything works.

The beam has a ring in it from the bezel, but nothing annoying in real life. It throws a good spot, with 450 lumen @30 seconds max (well over 3A current), and the great bistro UI takes care of all other modes. The rosy tint with total absence of yellow is not 100% my cup of tea , but the clarity and colour contrast of this led is sublime!

giorgoskok
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Sweet mod right there djozz Wink

Jerommel
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Enderman wrote:
Jerommel wrote:
Dear oh dear…
Thanks for the compliments, but the success was very short lived…
I killed the XHP70…
A week ago i killed a XHP50.2
In both cases i nicked the dome and ruined the LED.. FacepalmTired

How did you kill it by nicking the dome?
Did you like poke it with a knife and break a wire or something?
Well…
The protruding bits turned out to protrude too much, so set out to shave some off with a dremel fixed to a bench, but the mill bit grabbed it…

So i was really dumb to not make sure the thickness was as should be before soldering the LED to the board…

..waiting for parts..

Still looking for 5” parabolic reflector (for recoil light)

Buzzing Bulb
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Changed the optic on a HC30 to a 45 degrees TIR.


Now it has a nice even spill when working outside.
Though I kept the lens, to press the O-ring down and keep it waterproof.

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Buzzing Bulb wrote:
Changed the optic on a HC30 to a 45 degrees TIR.

good fit Carclo 10140
http://forum.fonarevka.ru/showthread.php?t=31892
MRsDNF
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Nice mod on the MCPCB Jerommel. It deserves a new led. Smile

My current and or voltage measurements are only relevent to anything that I measure.

Budget light hobby proudly sponsored by my Mastercard and unknowingly paid for by a hard working wife. 

djozz said "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

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Looks really classy CRX! I read the build thread, nice.

Today I balanced the leds in the flashlight from post #2607 a bit better. The resistors are like this now:

Looks better now, but in reality what looks green is more towards lime andcwhat looks yellow is more orange.

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i have been taking more steps towards casting my own aluminum stock… i am going to start a thread in the DIY on it…

With enough black coffee and cigarettes? all things are possible…

I am currently still shipping… REAL GENUINE CREE xp-g emitters, the classic… brace yourself? as low as 20 cents apiece!! Check out the SALES THREAD, everyone is happy… then PM me

SALES THREAD:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/52528

if you are into reloading? this is my site… I inherited the remains of what was once arguably the best reloading site on the internet… its the “BLF” of reloading sites…

http://reloadbench.freeforums.net/

if you think night vision would be cool? It IS… this site i am a member of, and its basically the “BLF” of home made scratch-built digital night vision. They are at the leading forefront of advanced DIY for digital night vision, and thats gun mounted or handheld… builds rival and exceed commercial offerings…

http://nightvisionforumuk.com/

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A very fiddly driver spring bypass, and a rather severe grinding job on the retaining ring to increase the internal diameter:

Wired up my 219C triple…just need to attach the NTC resistor, once the silicone cures, and it’s good to go.

I wasn’t happy with the wire solder job, so I’ve since preheated the pill and resoldered the wires. It looks a bit better now.

Considering it’s my first reflow (using a clothes iron, no less…thanks lampyris!), I’m pretty damn pleased (and rather surprised) that it actually works. Big Smile

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Erethryn wrote:
A very fiddly driver spring bypass, and a rather severe grinding job on the retaining ring to increase the internal diameter:

Wired up my 219C triple…just need to attach the NTC resistor, once the silicone cures, and it’s good to go.

I wasn’t happy with the wire solder job, so I’ve since preheated the pill and resoldered the wires. It looks a bit better now.

Considering it’s my first reflow (using a clothes iron, no less…thanks lampyris!), I’m pretty damn pleased (and rather surprised) that it actually works. Big Smile

What driver did you use? Good job on the ring, I hate opening them up. The dremel and I always swap blood.

EDC rotation:
Convoy S2+, 6*7135, XM-L2 3D, 10 degree TIR, PilotDog lighted tailcap.
Convoy S2+, H17F, XM-L2 4C, lighted tailcap
Zebralight SC52w-L2
Olight S1A
Olight S1R

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I can state success for the Narsil build with the E-switch plus forward switch

Tom E changed the code so that the light gets always in turbo mode when the battery is conected here

This is the same as it was in the Klarus XT11GT light.

the normal narsil is running on my mopdded Skilhunt H03R
also adjusted the thermal calibration, works perfectly

black and white goes to swich with indicator LED which is feed by pin 7 over a 4.7kOhms resistor

left with TA 21mm driver, on the right stock with TIR both with identical high drain cell
left 4.55A right 2.45A

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