What did you mod today?

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Erethryn
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A very fiddly driver spring bypass, and a rather severe grinding job on the retaining ring to increase the internal diameter:

Wired up my 219C triple…just need to attach the NTC resistor, once the silicone cures, and it’s good to go.

I wasn’t happy with the wire solder job, so I’ve since preheated the pill and resoldered the wires. It looks a bit better now.

Considering it’s my first reflow (using a clothes iron, no less…thanks lampyris!), I’m pretty damn pleased (and rather surprised) that it actually works. Big Smile

mattlward
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Erethryn wrote:
A very fiddly driver spring bypass, and a rather severe grinding job on the retaining ring to increase the internal diameter:

Wired up my 219C triple…just need to attach the NTC resistor, once the silicone cures, and it’s good to go.

I wasn’t happy with the wire solder job, so I’ve since preheated the pill and resoldered the wires. It looks a bit better now.

Considering it’s my first reflow (using a clothes iron, no less…thanks lampyris!), I’m pretty damn pleased (and rather surprised) that it actually works. Big Smile

What driver did you use? Good job on the ring, I hate opening them up. The dremel and I always swap blood.

EDC rotation:
Convoy S2+, 6*7135, XM-L2 3D, 10 degree TIR, PilotDog lighted tailcap.
Convoy S2+, H17F, XM-L2 4C, lighted tailcap
Zebralight SC52w-L2
Olight S1A
Olight S1R

Lexel
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I can state success for the Narsil build with the E-switch plus forward switch

Tom E changed the code so that the light gets always in turbo mode when the battery is conected here

This is the same as it was in the Klarus XT11GT light.

the normal narsil is running on my mopdded Skilhunt H03R
also adjusted the thermal calibration, works perfectly

black and white goes to swich with indicator LED which is feed by pin 7 over a 4.7kOhms resistor

left with TA 21mm driver, on the right stock with TIR both with identical high drain cell
left 4.55A right 2.45A

Rufusbduck
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mattlward wrote:
Erethryn wrote:
A very fiddly driver spring bypass, and a rather severe grinding job on the retaining ring to increase the internal diameter:

Wired up my 219C triple…just need to attach the NTC resistor, once the silicone cures, and it’s good to go.

I wasn’t happy with the wire solder job, so I’ve since preheated the pill and resoldered the wires. It looks a bit better now.

Considering it’s my first reflow (using a clothes iron, no less…thanks lampyris!), I’m pretty damn pleased (and rather surprised) that it actually works. Big Smile

What driver did you use? Good job on the ring, I hate opening them up. The dremel and I always swap blood.


Looks like one of led4powers drivers. LD-2

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

Erethryn
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Rufusbduck wrote:
mattlward wrote:
What driver did you use? Good job on the ring, I hate opening them up. The dremel and I always swap blood.
Looks like one of led4powers drivers. LD-2

Yup, it’s a 12A LD-3.

CRX
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khas
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Thorfire VG10 quad with the new spacer from kiriba-ru I have version #1 see discussion here :

http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1098043#comment-1098043

Picture of the parts, I forgot to include the actual spacer in the photo Facepalm :

The spacer and parts was a perfect fit and it all came together nicely.Setup : Nichia 219C D320 5000K and a MTN-17DDm driver with Bistro firmware.

The VG10 is build like a tank and handles the heat very well, I also have a Convoy M1 quad with the same set-up but somehow the VG10 seems more solid.

Another great spacer kit from kiriba-ru.

vinte77
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I bought a light off of taobao and modded it. Here’s the work I did: changed out the OP reflector to a dual stage smooth reflector (much like pflexpro’s hybrid reflector) (I had to trim the reflector shorter to fit in the light), mtn 7135+FET driver w/ Bistro, bypassed springs both driver and switch, blue tail light switch, xpl2 v5 4000k led, blue GITD led centering ring, and epoxied a magnet ring on the tail end of the light.

Erethryn
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Finished putting my S2+ 219C triple together…again.

Learned a very important lesson in the process, if you’re soldering a Noctigon to a copper pill, check it in the host with the optics to ensure that it’s level before soldering the driver wires. Facepalm

Managed to nudge one of the LEDs out of place in the re-reflow too…not my finest moment, but at least I got it back together and it’s working!

djozz
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..a Jaxman E2L with 3000K 80CRI Nichia 319C’s. Not great, see http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1099902#comment-1099902

vwpieces
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Latest ThorFire VG10 that has spacers under emitter to compensate for bad design.
Rebuilt this light using an M2 Convoy reflector left over from an M2 Quad build. While it does physically fit into the head of the VG10 with spacers removed I did have to file/sand the top of the M2 reflector for the thicker Noctigon MCPCB and reflector spacer used. Also the choice of O-ring will determine how much material need to be removed for the bezel to seat properly.

Used 20mm Noctigon with XM-L2 U4 1A and an A6 Fet driver.


Enderman
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If only we could compensate for all bad design in life by adding more spacers…

khas
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Eagle Eye X7 with Cree XHP50.2 5000K and this H1-A 20mm 3A 1-cell 5-Mode Boost Driver both from Kaidomain.

It’s a nice little pocket rocket, there is some tint shift in the corona, but not nearly as much as the XP-L2 in the same flashlight.

vwpieces
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Thats a neat driver khas, Thanks.
X7 supply is getting spotty, need to get a coupe more. I like that light a lot.

Valor
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Now that I’m playing with UV leds a lot..I hacked a few highlighter markers into a beautiful set of UV reactive ink today.
..that counts right?

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Wow! That’s pretty neat Valor. I didn’t even know hilighter ink did that.

Very impressive picture. Cool

khas
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vwpieces wrote:
Thats a neat driver khas, Thanks. X7 supply is getting spotty, need to get a coupe more. I like that light a lot.

The driver pulls the same from a freshly charged battery, King Kong ICR26650 4000mAh or protected Keeppower 26650 5200mAh. 5,2A from both. Two things to consider about this driver : it’s on-time memory and there is a low mode pre-flash.

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I mirror polished a SK98 ultrafire host that I had lying around. I wanted to test out a few ideas.

I took a tapered rubber stopper with a hole in it, used a long bolt so I could attach it to my drill, put the narrow end into the flashlight body, tightened it with a bolt and then just tweaked it so it was balanced.

That made sanding down the anodizing a lot faster than it would have been by hand. Basically I was using the drill to spin the flashlight and my hand to hold the sandpaper. It turned out really well for a first attempt at polishing a light. 220 -> 500 -> 1000 -> 1200 grit sandpaper then a cloth buffing wheel and a white bar. I am being lazy about uploading pics, it basically looks like this now.

The light still has the usual hollow pill but its opening is only 10mm across. So I ordered some cheap upgrades for it from fasttech.
6* AMC7135 4-Group 2~5 Modes LED Flashlight Driver Circuit (Nanjg 105c) SKU 1122301
Cree XP-G3 S4-5C 777LM 4000K LED Emitter SKU 6813700
and a partition board to fit the 17mm driver into the 20mm opening.

Probably better combinations out there but I wanted to keep it under $10 and the emitter base needed to be copper DTP at least. 6×7135’s should keep it from getting too hot and I am leaving the tail switch alone.

I think the last time I modded a light this much was when I built my SST-90 3D Mag 10 years ago. Its still my go-to emergency light.

CRX
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Metal & Black Thumbs Up

CRX
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I rebuilt a £1 cheapy today

djozz
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khas wrote:
Eagle Eye X7 with Cree XHP50.2 5000K and this H1-A 20mm 3A 1-cell 5-Mode Boost Driver both from Kaidomain.

It’s a nice little pocket rocket, there is some tint shift in the corona, but not nearly as much as the XP-L2 in the same flashlight.


I was planning the same easy mod (but with a different tint) but the driver is not in yet , good to see that it pulls around 5 amps while the driver is rated for 3. So that must be just under 3000 lumen?
NeutralFan
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CRX wrote:
I rebuilt a £1 cheapy today


The bare metal look much better than the original red paint, along with the upgrades you made.

Where did you get the copper pill from?

I’d rather use my flashlight around the house than turn on the lights.

Rufusbduck
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NeutralFan wrote:
CRX wrote:
I rebuilt a £1 cheapy today


The bare metal look much better than the original red paint, along with the upgrades you made.

Where did you get the copper pill from?


Looks like a compression coupling with the hex nut center filed down.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

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Modded an old and beat up Surefire 9P Steve Glass bead and polished. Bored out to 18.65mm and then the head bored/honed out for a 24mm Custom made (pretty tight press fit) Copper pill. Noctigon Triple XP-L V6 Ball milled optic, 3S 3-18350 Purple Efest, and a FETDD Zener Mod 14 mode Guppy Drv. driver using 20awg leads, Custom Home made Zero Rez type tail cap mod. Single sided AR Glass lens and SS Solarforce Crenelated bezel, 6.43 amps at the tail cap. Really Bright!!!

Glow-On vinyl rim and dot

KB1428 “Live Life WOT”

khas
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djozz wrote:
I was planning the same easy mod (but with a different tint) but the driver is not in yet , good to see that it pulls around 5 amps while the driver is rated for 3. So that must be just under 3000 lumen?

I haven’t measured LED amps, but if it pulls 5.2A from the battery the emitter could be getting 3A, so according to your test that would give 2500 LED lumens, so maybe 2200 OTF lumens ?

CRX
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NeutralFan wrote:

The bare metal look much better than the original red paint, along with the upgrades you made.

Where did you get the copper pill from?


It is a brass pill from an old thrunite t20, there is more informafion in the build thread.
CRX
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nice charger Thumbs Up

djozz
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Very stylish, CRX!
At Kawiboy: that is some major modding on the Surefire Shocked , and it turned out great! .
At khas: I forgot about the boosting, of course the led-current is less than the battery current Facepalm .

My mod this afternoon, following XXX-men’s mod, a voltmeter (min. voltage 2.5V, from Aliexpress) built into the Liitokala Lii-100 ($1 ! from a GB flashdeal), that charger is tailor-made for these little volmeters, it has exact the right empty space on the right spot to fit it. I used no glue, just a piece of silicon tailcap stuffed behind the voltmeter was needed to keep it in place perfectly.

The cut-out is not as neat as XXX-man has made it, but I think it turned out fine. And mine is orange Cool . My six-year-old has followed the mod from begin to end so he is allowed in the picture. Smile

Has anyone noticed an effect of the build-in voltmeter on the charger? I find that it does not swap between 0.5 to 1A anymore, stuck at 0.5A. Or did I demolish something? (edit: never mind, it just works, had to hold the button to change charge current instead just clicking it) It is no problem because I will not really use it as a charger (still works fine at 0.5A charging current), just for checking battery voltages.

It seems to read 0.02V low on small batteries, I guess a tiny bit of voltage sag from the power that the voltmeter draws. 18650 cells are spot-on.

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Nice mod djozz Thumbs Up

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