Review : Utorch UT02 Flashlight (XHP35 / 26650 / usb rechargeable)(in progress)

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giorgoskok
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JasonWW wrote:
gastonpatagonico wrote:
Hi, someone who modified resistance for a r100, could you tell me if the modification is still stable? Thank you!

The odds are good since this is still below spec.

Now the R050 is the one more likely to cause problems over time.

Has anyone seen the Manker drivers that put out over 5 amps?

I’m wondering if they originally used a R025 sense resistor (which was later swapped to an R050 to reduce output).

They used the same resistors , probably they changed something in the firmware.

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giorgoskok wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
gastonpatagonico wrote:
Hi, someone who modified resistance for a r100, could you tell me if the modification is still stable? Thank you!

The odds are good since this is still below spec.

Now the R050 is the one more likely to cause problems over time.

Has anyone seen the Manker drivers that put out over 5 amps?

I’m wondering if they originally used a R025 sense resistor (which was later swapped to an R050 to reduce output).

They used the same resistors , probably they changed something in the firmware.


Yes, you are correct. Tom’s driver picture is from a Manker. I was thinking it was from the weaker Utorch.

After comparing the battery loads I can see that all modes, besides low, have been shifted down. They no doubt changed the firmware to maintain good spacing. Costs them nothing as well. Wink

Turbo is 55% less
High is 47% less
Mid 2 is 39% less
Mid 1 is 20% less

How has your light with the added R050 resistor held up? Still working good?

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giorgoskok
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Mine has been modded completely now , running a fet driver (narsil firmware , ldo) and dedomed xp-g2 .

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giorgoskok wrote:
Mine has been modded completely now , running a fet driver (narsil firmware , ldo) and dedomed xp-g2 .

I found where Mitko said he bought 2 of the early Manker lights that drew 5.5 tail amps and they both failed within a month.

I’m guessing the stock driver’s just can’t handle that load. Maybe adding an R100, creating 3.8 tail amps is the way to go?

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Maybe it has something to do with these boost drivers pulling more amps as the battery voltage gets lower?

That’s the opposite of most buck drivers.

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Ragsy wrote:
There’s a few UT02 review topics floating around but I thought I’d place my question in this one.

While I’m waiting for mine to arrive, can I ask if anyone knows whether the new short version of the Keeppower 26650’s work in this torch?

I’ve got them in my L6 so it’d be handy to use the same batteries

thanks

***Confirmed*** : the short version protected 26650 KP’s fit. I bought them here
ebay supersport600

G'day mate, ow ya garn?
Yeah, nah good mate

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Those are protected cells and I don’t see anything there stating where the cut-off protection kicks in, you might run into issues with those as this light can pull close to 6A when a freshly charged cell is used and that will go up as the cell drains due to the regulated style Boost driver. They could also be a bit on the long side, regardless I feel like they’d fail due to the protection circuits.

We tend to shy away from cells ending in “Fire”, they just have a low track record. Try Liion Wholesalers and get some Basen cells or the 4200 Efest, something like that will do fine.

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Thorfire is the only good “fire” brand.

I only buy from trusted stores. That way your guaranteed to get what you ordered.

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Not necessarily so, Richard suggested I get the non-protected TrustFire 32650 for my TR-J20 and they actually work very well, outperforming anything I’ve seen and this in a 6000mAh 32650. That’s the only “fire” cells I have though, having had too much trouble with others in the past.

Efest, LG, Samsung, Sanyo, Panasonic, Sony, Basen, King Kong, Liitikola, there are a good many good cells out there. No reason to take chances with lesser “cheap” cells.

There has been a lot of discussion about Efest re-wrapping cells. I’ve tested many many cells and have never found a cell from any brand name that has performance characteristics matching the multitude of Efest cells I own. I have hundreds of cells, the highest concentration among these is Efest.

nodoubt
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just got my utorch
2.5 amps tail
close to 1100 lumens best i can tell
97,600 lux tested numerous times
built like a brick, could knock somebody out with it no problem Shocked
so im no modder, but do own a solder gun, lol
what can a dummy like me do to amp this thing up a bit ?
and btw, mine steps from a 150 lux ceiling bounce, to about 108 lux after about 4 minutes or so
is this normal ?

nodoubt
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just retested at 10 meters
came in dead at 100kcd
was testing at 4 m

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nodoubt wrote:
just got my utorch
2.5 amps tail
close to 1100 lumens best i can tell
97,600 lux tested numerous times
built like a brick, could knock somebody out with it no problem Shocked
so im no modder, but do own a solder gun, lol
what can a dummy like me do to amp this thing up a bit ?

I would be careful modding this driver. If you want it to last, I would do a conservative power boost. See below.

JasonWW wrote:
giorgoskok wrote:
Mine has been modded completely now , running a fet driver (narsil firmware , ldo) and dedomed xp-g2 .

I found where Mitko said he bought 2 of the early Manker lights that drew 5.5 tail amps and they both failed within a month.

I’m guessing the stock driver’s just can’t handle that load. Maybe adding an R100, creating 3.8 tail amps is the way to go?

Adding an R100 is all I would consider. The hardest part is getting one. Once you have it, you need a fine tip on your iron. It’s tricky soldering a resistor that is 3mm long and 1.5mm wide, but it can be done. I did it and there are videos of it on youtube.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

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nodoubt
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JasonWW wrote:
nodoubt wrote:
just got my utorch
2.5 amps tail
close to 1100 lumens best i can tell
97,600 lux tested numerous times
built like a brick, could knock somebody out with it no problem Shocked
so im no modder, but do own a solder gun, lol
what can a dummy like me do to amp this thing up a bit ?

I would be careful modding this driver. If you want it to last, I would do a conservative power boost. See below.

JasonWW wrote:
giorgoskok wrote:
Mine has been modded completely now , running a fet driver (narsil firmware , ldo) and dedomed xp-g2 .

I found where Mitko said he bought 2 of the early Manker lights that drew 5.5 tail amps and they both failed within a month.

I’m guessing the stock driver’s just can’t handle that load. Maybe adding an R100, creating 3.8 tail amps is the way to go?

Adding an R100 is all I would consider. The hardest part is getting one. Once you have it, you need a fine tip on your iron. It’s tricky soldering a resistor that is 3mm long and 1.5mm wide, but it can be done. I did it and there are videos of it on youtube.

thanks for that
is the 3 or 4 minute stepdown normal?
this light should be able to handle a good bit of heat the way its built

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nodoubt wrote:

thanks for that
is the 3 or 4 minute stepdown normal?
this light should be able to handle a good bit of heat the way its built

I don’t own this model, but I do believe the step down is normal. Check out Chris’s video review here.
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/51567

He may mention it. Keep in mind early versions of this light had higher output and more heat, so it may have stepped down sooner. I’ll let an actual owner tell you about their stepdown times.

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nodoubt
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JasonWW wrote:
nodoubt wrote:
just got my utorch
2.5 amps tail
close to 1100 lumens best i can tell
97,600 lux tested numerous times
built like a brick, could knock somebody out with it no problem Shocked
so im no modder, but do own a solder gun, lol
what can a dummy like me do to amp this thing up a bit ?

I would be careful modding this driver. If you want it to last, I would do a conservative power boost. See below.

JasonWW wrote:
giorgoskok wrote:
Mine has been modded completely now , running a fet driver (narsil firmware , ldo) and dedomed xp-g2 .

I found where Mitko said he bought 2 of the early Manker lights that drew 5.5 tail amps and they both failed within a month.

I’m guessing the stock driver’s just can’t handle that load. Maybe adding an R100, creating 3.8 tail amps is the way to go?

Adding an R100 is all I would consider. The hardest part is getting one. Once you have it, you need a fine tip on your iron. It’s tricky soldering a resistor that is 3mm long and 1.5mm wide, but it can be done. I did it and there are videos of it on youtube.

cant seem to find any videos
can you post a link if you can get 1?
ty sir Thumbs Up

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It was at the bottom of his review. Here is a direct link to youtube.

https://youtu.be/8GWF1YWSe2I

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

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nodoubt
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JasonWW wrote:
It was at the bottom of his review. Here is a direct link to youtube.

https://youtu.be/8GWF1YWSe2I

yeah , ive seen that one several times actually
i thought you meant there was a video for the mod we were talking about……

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nodoubt wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
It was at the bottom of his review. Here is a direct link to youtube.

https://youtu.be/8GWF1YWSe2I

yeah , ive seen that one several times actually
i thought you meant there was a video for the mod we were talking about……


Oh, I don’t know of a video specific to this light, but the concept is the same. Do you already know where the sense resistors are on the UT02 driver? If not, I can hunt for a picture for you. [EDIT: Look at post 131 in this thread for the location.]

https://youtu.be/TRp8WxJsivw
2:15 to 3:00

General videos
https://youtu.be/PU7wLcuqc-I

https://youtu.be/_DsCdOaRUPM

I recommend a tiny drop of super glue to hold the resistor on top or use a hemostat, if you have one, to hold it still. It likes to move around on you. Lol

I like the technique in those general videos. I might need some magnifying goggles to better see the tiny parts, though. Smile

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Can someone recommend a good driver for xpg/xpl mod that I can buy from China, if there is any?

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Sukoi wrote:
Can someone recommend a good driver for xpg/xpl mod that I can buy from China, if there is any?

Unfortunately there isn’t any .

You can buy one from US , check MTN electronics.

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PeterRamish wrote:
I just took delivery (6/1/2017) on a utorch ut02 and the poor thing is just pathetic. It draws 2.4 A at the tail cap, and my DIY sphere tells me it’s 650 lm. I know that’s right as my sphere is very reliable it’s tested dozens of lights .

I want to warn other fellow BLFs about this situation, so they do not make the same mistake I did.

I have looked at this light a little more. It has other driver issues, like a 50% timed step down at 90 seconds which is total un-necessary at the power level it is driven.

It is a shame because the construction, machining, fit and finish is all very high quality. I can not believe that they put that much effort into it and then fell apart on the driver/LED. They also have violated the ANSI FL1 agreement, as the bogus information is stated on the box and printed material. That is a real No/NO and if ANSI catches up.. but, of course China is a “long way away”,.. so I guess they will just continue to do what they are doing.

Last Post/Review here was last updated some months ago and I think people thought that UTORCH would improve and fix the light by this time (over 7 months). But that has not happened. I have a recent production sample here and it is basically 50% below its claimed ANSI spec.

I wrote GearBest, but they just send back one of their bul&^lsh#@t emails about asking me to “take a video of the problem”, and “am I sure about the issues”, bla..bla..bla..

Unless you want to pour another $50~100 in drivers, LEDs, mods, stay away !

-Peter

So does the 50% step-down, mean after 90s it’s output is limited to 325lm(650lm/2) ?
Is there anyway to lower the bleeder resistor and increase output?
Despite the issues, it’s still difficult to find a thrower at $30 that has a built in charger.

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mine steps down too
shame like you said for a heavy duty light
the dam things still ice cold after several reruns on turbo……..

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PeterRamish wrote:
Bill_tong wrote:

So does the 50% step-down, mean after 90s it’s output is limited to 325lm(650lm/2) ?
Is there anyway to lower the bleeder resistor and increase output?
Despite the issues, it’s still difficult to find a thrower at $30 that has a built in charger.

Yes, actually a little less than 325lm, but that is pretty close, it maintains that for over 10 minutes, it may actually run much longer at that level, but after 10 mins I got tired of waiting and removed it from the sphere. The math with the 26650 should have it go abt 7 hours at 300lm. You mileage might vary.

I paid $39 from Gearbest, maybe you can find one 10 bucks cheaper. I agree the form factor and the USB charging is very interesting. For me, speaking as a tech-head fashaholic, it just is annoying as hell, not statisfying Facepalm , but if it will work for you then go for it! Actually, I am going to gift it to a non-flashlight friend, he will make fine use of it, the USB charger is perfect for him. FYI I have a stock box Convoy C8 from Simon that blows the doors off this thing in a night time A/B head to head at 100 yards.

The resistor mod is liable to kill the USB charge and other features of the programming. TomE and I discussed this in PM and he agrees, the only fix is a complete lobotomy.

-Peter

I agree 325lm is pretty bad for a XHP35, it has all the right stuff going for it why didn’t they just improve the driver.
Which Convoy C8 are you comparing to, XPL with 8 drivers? Or XPL with a FET?

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How then me and Dale got 950 lumens for NW, and 1090 on CW? Not that I am discrediting yor measurements, but we had same Amperage on tail as you do 2,4- 2,5A and 0,7A on led
….

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I use mine on 10 minute walks pretty much weekly, taking the trash down to the road for collection in the morning. It makes nice light and doesn’t step down like what you’re saying yours does. I tested it side by side with a Manker U21 and liked the UT02 better.

Just pulled mine off the shelf, well rested, and it does 1070.2 lumens for 2 minutes then takes 30 seconds to ramp down to 745.2 lumens where it sits stable for over a minute and I cut it off, the head is warm to the touch.

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There is a step down after 3 min but from 950 to 640 lumens with my NW but you can’t actually see it with bare eyes. Anyway if you dont like it just go to secret mode and switch to turbo and it will stay in turbo until battery can handle it, also it will get hot after 10 minutes

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Forgot about the hidden mode, thanks Nikola for reminding me. No turbo step down when in that mode. Wink

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When Peter and I pm'ed, I forgot the standard tail amps on these things is 2.3-2.5A amps now. Used to be over 5A when they did a true 1,300 lumens, like the Manker U21 did in my review: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/47412.

So the new 2.4A version does about 1,000 lumens. With Peter's doing ~650 lumens, I'd suspect the LED, LED mount, and/or optics, but could still be a driver problem I suppose.

He's right though - they downgraded the light but never downgraded the specs, but if the measurements are good, his is performing below par of even the downgraded model, but the amps drawn from the cell is not producing the same output.

 

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From post #179, earlier this evening…

“Just pulled mine off the shelf, well rested, and it does 1070.2 lumens for 2 minutes then takes 30 seconds to ramp down to 745.2 lumens where it sits stable for over a minute and I cut it off, the head is warm to the touch.”

I may not be a mathematical genius but even I can garner that 1070 well rested lumens is much more than half of 1300 ANSI rated lumens. The well rested cell in question is an OLD Moli 26700 sitting at 4.02V.

Edit: For the record, my UT02 with a Sanyo 20700B cell at 4.15V makes 1107.45 lumens. As tested moments ago before plugging the light in for charging.

Edit II: With the 20700B cell charged in the light, it makes 1111 lumens.

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