[GB ended,discussion only] CRI > 80+ NICHIA 2000K-6500K [E21A/219B/219C/319A/144A/757GT-F1(Optisolis)]

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clemence
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alberto7 wrote:
There is any specific PCB for Optisolis?

I want to mod a festoon led car and think in this led cause are the best in cri

Approximately a month from now

- Clemence

vinte77
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Is that a 20mm mcpcb?

1C3
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That looks like a pretty good way to get good output out of these, I guess a frosted optic will be needed to avoid artifacts?

alberto7
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Looks really nice, good work!

adam7027
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alberto7 wrote:
I want to mod a festoon led car and think in this led cause are the best in cri

Never thought into that yet, but absolutely would make sense, and I definitely would take a few, if someone could make a compatible board for 31mm length festoon lights.

(Another field of application, I am currently in the process looking up some (preferably the more efficient, the more good) driver for single 18650 cell lights, because I want to ride bike with customized lights – but for now I will pick 219B/C series LED for that purpose, paired with an XP footprint compatible stripe TIR optics, because I tried closely similar optics already, and seems to be very useful /and spectacular/ in practice).

clemence wrote:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/59478

Thank you Smile I will try to reproduce that – it would be the best for me to use during museum walks /there are many badly illuminated museum exhibitions here, I already took great use of the Astrolux A1/. And would make a great gift for my loved ones.
adam7027
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adam7027 wrote:

I examined the stock optics, and had to admit, that there seem to be no serious flaws regarding optical efficiency, just because the emitting area is bigger, the candela/lumen ratio dropped further. I tried to find out, that the supplied optics whether has 45 degrees beam angle, or 60 degrees, but it is hard to tell, as there are not really any hard boundaries in the beam. Regardless of that, I will look for, and purchase optics with 30 degrees or less beam angle, just for any cases I would need bigger throw capability Smile

Resurrecting my Skilhunt optics swap subtopic (d=17mm), I tried those optics as well, and... yes, they did not make much difference in the practice. It seems, the Skilhunt H03 uses the 30 degree one. With the 60 degree one, I get a significantly more granular center spot, and just some more scattering into the spill. The 45 degree one is just a little different from the 30 degree one. The 20 degree one has a very slight ring in the pattern, but nothing disturbing - maybe the beam got a little bit more concentrated, but not near the experience with the LEDs with smaller emitting surface.

SKV89
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Has anyone modded a lantern with these 9080 emitters? Seems like a good use for high cri good tint. This one here can change from WW to CW. I’m imagining 2000k or 3000k WW with 5000k or 6500k CW 9080.
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60688

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Not yet. Just got quad dtp stars that I was gonna use to refit an old-timey-looking lantern. Probably will stick in some 351Bs (3000K) for now, which should look nice.

09 F9 11 02 9D 74 E3 5B D8 41 56 C5 63 56 88 C0

clemence
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vinte77 wrote:
Is that a 20mm mcpcb?
It’s standard 21mm in 4P config
clemence
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1C3 wrote:
That looks like a pretty good way to get good output out of these, I guess a frosted optic will be needed to avoid artifacts?

I don’t think it will create any artefacts at all. Didn’t make it in unique rotation because the dual dies in each emitter are too wide apart to each other and already asymmetric.
If in any case there’s artefacts at all, then frosted TIR should cure it easily. It fits all Carclo 106xx

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maukka wrote:
djozz wrote:
If you mix two colour temperatures, the spectra simply add up and you have no different tint than if you use just one led of the in-between colour temperature, but not as good because the light will not be perfectly mixed.

There’s one possibly positive thing about mixing CCTs though. If you happen to get two mildly greenish emitters with large enough CCT gap, you can mix them and land closer to the BBL since the average is completely linear.

!https://i.imgur.com/UbIwEYF.png!

Wow thanks! That’s super useful information!

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Clemence, if you have a next order from Nichia, could you ask for some 219D samples? Or did you already have some (can’t remember). I really wonder why the 219D exists while none of the specs are significantly different from the 219C. Or are they simply cheaper?

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djozz wrote:
Clemence, if you have a next order from Nichia, could you ask for some 219D samples? Or did you already have some (can’t remember). I really wonder why the 219D exists while none of the specs are significantly different from the 219C. Or are they simply cheaper?

Already place the sample request but unfortunately it’s 119D. It’s superior for a special application Wink

- Clemence

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Looking at
http://www.nichia.co.jp/en/product/led_product_data.html?type=%27NVSW219...
and
http://www.shinkoh-nichia.jp/led/nvsw119d/
they seem exactly the same

BTW, 219D is just as efficient as 219C despite having smaller die.
May be OK for throwers?

clemence
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Agro wrote:
Looking at
http://www.nichia.co.jp/en/product/led_product_data.html?type=%27NVSW219...
and
http://www.shinkoh-nichia.jp/led/nvsw119d/
they seem exactly the same

BTW, 219D is just as efficient as 219C despite having smaller die.
May be OK for throwers?

Quiz of the day. No, they’re not the same. Find the difference Wink

- Clemence

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The yellow dot on 119D is yellower? Different colour temperature? (Though exactly the same performance indicates otherwise)

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Looked at the datasheet. Different soldering pad.

adam7027
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clemence wrote:
Agro wrote:
Looking at
http://www.nichia.co.jp/en/product/led_product_data.html?type=%27NVSW219...
and
http://www.shinkoh-nichia.jp/led/nvsw119d/
they seem exactly the same

BTW, 219D is just as efficient as 219C despite having smaller die.
May be OK for throwers?

Quiz of the day. No, they’re not the same. Find the difference Wink

- Clemence

Narrower half-illumination angle (and a little bit more height), if I remember well (i.e. probably good for throwers).

clemence
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G _ _ _ _ L _ _ _

Agro
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Good_Luck?

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Agro wrote:
Good_Luck?
LOL nope
clemence
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Anyone are welcome to try the quiz EXCEPT Djozz and Zak

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BTW, I already mentioned different soldering pad. I suppose there’s another difference? Or maybe this one, but you worded it differently?

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Agro wrote:
BTW, I already mentioned different soldering pad. I suppose there’s another difference? Or maybe this one, but you worded it differently?

No, the 119D and 119C have the same foot print. This is another obvious difference

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G L A S S L E N S

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I’m really hoping that this is not another typo. If this is the case then dedoming this LED would be the easiest and cleanest dedoming job with less lumen loss as usual. The idea of using multi refractive index material was introduced three years ago by a chinese scientist. He demonstrated more than 21% output using the same die. He used 5 layers silicone from the high to low to slowly reduce the RI transition to extract more photons off the die.

- Clemence

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You mean the difference between 119C and 119D? I haven’t seen that comparison in the posts above (or 119C being mentioned at all).

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Agro wrote:
You mean the difference between 119C and 119D? I haven’t seen that comparison in the posts above (or 119C being mentioned at all).

I thought the question was what’s new in 119D/219D over 119C/219C. But yes, 119 package is better thermally compared to 219 package on two pads board like my VR16S1. Larger thermal pad area
And probably somewhat higher current handling too

- Clemence

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We’ve had a bit of confusion. Smile

But yes, your find is very interesting.

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I could be wrong. If the configuration is like this: die – glass – phosphors embedded silicone, then its a total disaster. Dedoming would remove most all of the phosphor and leave us a big royal blue LED!

- Clemence

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