[GB ended,discussion only] CRI > 80+ NICHIA 2000K-6500K [E21A/219B/219C/319A/144A/757GT-F1(Optisolis)]

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clemence
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I guess I know him Facepalm .
He got those 3500K from somewhere else, not me. I have never interested in 219B series, so forgive my ignorance.

- Clemence

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Hmmm… 3500K 219B 9080 sounds delicious… Love

2Q19

SKV89
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According to LEDRISE, they can still get the NVSL219B-V1 9080 219B from 3000k all the way to 4500k from Nichia but their MOQ is “one full roll”.

SKV89
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clemence][quote=adam7027 wrote:

Already invested in something else.

- Clemence

What is that something else? Wink Care to share or is it meant as a surprise for us??

clemence
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SKV89][quote=clemence wrote:
adam7027 wrote:

Already invested in something else.

- Clemence

What is that something else? Wink Care to share or is it meant as a surprise for us??

Hint: you asked one of my surprises before. Don’t worry, I’ll give you a head start later.

- Clemence

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clemence wrote:
Unusual CRI rank: Rsp0a
No data available to the public yet.

This is said to be almost similar to Optisolis but with some special spectrum tweaks for optimal plant growth.

- Clemence

Cant wait to see these in the story. Will have to try them if just to collect them all…

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^ Must be using a UV pump, because grow lights are full spectrum, including UV and some (near) IR.
Efficiency for the visible part of the spectrum will probably suffer.

2Q19

fixed it
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Clemence, any chance you’ll be selling the Noctigon 4XP 33mm in the near future? I really want a D4S in 4000k nichia but I don’t entirely trust my stovestop reflow skills for such a high power setup. I’ll do it if I have to but would rather pay to get it done properly.

clemence
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fixed it wrote:
Clemence, any chance you’ll be selling the Noctigon 4XP 33mm in the near future? I really want a D4S in 4000k nichia but I don’t entirely trust my stovestop reflow skills for such a high power setup. I’ll do it if I have to but would rather pay to get it done properly.

I will slowly leave 3535 LED off my future projects. The easiest way is to order from Hank and send it to my address so I can solder it for you. But if you want to learn and experiment, it’s actually very easy to do. Rather than spending money to ship it to me

- Clemence

SKV89
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clemence wrote:
fixed it wrote:
Clemence, any chance you’ll be selling the Noctigon 4XP 33mm in the near future? I really want a D4S in 4000k nichia but I don’t entirely trust my stovestop reflow skills for such a high power setup. I’ll do it if I have to but would rather pay to get it done properly.

I will slowly leave 3535 LED off my future projects. The easiest way is to order from Hank and send it to my address so I can solder it for you. But if you want to learn and experiment, it’s actually very easy to do. Rather than spending money to ship it to me

- Clemence

Leave 3535??? Oh no that’s bad news! I was hoping you would probably bring more surprises in the most common form factor. Maybe more “E” tint bin 219C for example.

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Don’t worry, I’ll bring “another 3535” for you guys, soon. Fell in love with E21A and now E17A.
CSP LEDs freed you from the constraints normally we face with packaged LEDs

- Clemence

fixed it
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clemence wrote:
I will slowly leave 3535 LED off my future projects. The easiest way is to order from Hank and send it to my address so I can solder it for you. But if you want to learn and experiment, it’s actually very easy to do. Rather than spending money to ship it to me

- Clemence

Thanks. I’ll just grab some LEDs before they vanish then. I have reflowed two triples on the stove which work ok but I’m never confident that the result is optimal (amount of solder and all).
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Easier if you use excess solder paste.
1. Put a blob of paste covering all the pads. Sn63/Pb37 is the easiest to work with. 200°C is all it takes to completely wet and melt (the melting point is 187°C)
2. Place the LED, press it slowly so all the contact pads wetted by the solder paste.
3. Place it on the hot plate. Heat it slowly at approx. 1°C/second.
4. Let the paste melt while slowly wiggle the LED with soft tweezer (I use sharpened chopsticks). I don’t like to tap/press the LED.
5. Move the LED 2/3 away from the correct position and suck the excess solder using soldering vacuum pump or solder wick.
6. Place it back to the correct position. I always use minimal solder whenever possible. When the LED “springing back” by the solder tension, that means there’s still too much solder beneath the LED – suck it off again.
7. Fine tune the position once again.
8. Let the soldered MCPCB cools at the same pace as it heat.
9. Soak it in warm IPA for several kinutes, clean the flux residue using soft toothbrush.
10. Wipe it dry. Done!

- Clemence

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E17A is just a smaller version of the E21A? That doesn’t sound too interesting. Or are there anything I’m not aware of?

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SKV89 wrote:
E17A is just a smaller version of the E21A? That doesn’t sound too interesting. Or are there anything I’m not aware of?

The color (RGBA) E17 can be made into limiless array. 4x E17 will be 3535 equivalent but with so many exciting possibilities and choices.

- Clemence

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Just don’t drop them on the carpet… Party

2Q19

WTF
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clemence wrote:
Don’t worry, I’ll bring “another 3535” for you guys, soon.

- Clemence

Can you bring some good 5050’s as well?

4000k 90 cri lights are making my 3C xml2 mountain bike lights almost unuseable.
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WTF wrote:
clemence wrote:
Don’t worry, I’ll bring “another 3535” for you guys, soon.

- Clemence

Can you bring some good 5050’s as well?

4000k 90 cri lights are making my 3C xml2 mountain bike lights almost unuseable.

There are none. Only 3000K XM-L2s are available with 90CRI. They are very inefficient and have yellow tints.

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WTF wrote:
clemence wrote:
Don’t worry, I’ll bring “another 3535” for you guys, soon.

- Clemence

Can you bring some good 5050’s as well?

4000k 90 cri lights are making my 3C xml2 mountain bike lights almost unuseable.

Show me your bike lights. Quadtrix e21 might solve your problem easily

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Thanks for the reflow advice. I will try to incorporate it as best as I can with available equipment. And by the way, your store is a joy to use. The layout and order process are excellent. Good thing I can’t just order nichia LEDs for the whole house or I’d go broke Big Smile

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SKV89 wrote:
Pavlo wrote:
@ SKV89, I love that you ordered 5 of them each with their own CCT.

I have one in 4000K and absolutely love the tint and color rendering. Best I have seen to date!
Which TIR optic did you end up using on the lights? Did you have them painted white or did you leave them as clear?

Last but not least, you will need to let us know which “flavour” / CCT you like best.

Yep I got the Virence.com discount applied for larger purchases Big Smile I wanted a set for comparison purposes.

I think Clemence used the 120deg. These were painted white for max ouput.

I like 2500k to 3000k for night time bedside EDC. Good for use as ambient lighting while watching TV in bed too. I’ll be alternating the 2500k and 3000k Tiaras for this purpose to see which one I like best.

I like 4000k to 5000k for day time work use. My favorite tint so far is the 219B 4500k 9080 on the ROT66. A huge flood of gorgeous neutral white HI CRI beam. Great for picture taking.

Just want to say after a week of usage, I really enjoy these modded Tiara’s alot. I use them every night now while watching TV and I’m amazed how well they can maintain constant lumen without stepping down, which makes it very practical as room lighting.

What I noticed is that the mixed CCT result in rosier tints. The 2× 2000k with 2× 3000k Tiara produces much rosier tint than the 2000k and 3000k version. The 2×3000k with 2×4000k version also produces rosier tints than the 3000k and 4000k version.

The 2500k is my fav right now for watching TV. 4000k is best for work. I thought after a while my eyes would adjust to the 2000k like with other color temps but it still appears too warm for me.

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I just received my latest order today.

Thank you very much again – now my Manta Ray C8.2 build with 4500K CCT E21A quad is complete, and while it has one slightly noticeable flaw, it is already very impressive.

I used an XM-L2 gasket from a Convoy S2+ host to prevent the reflector scratching the board (while fastening the bezel), but I think, it raises the reflector a bit too much.

The reflector with this host has a rather coarse OP pattern, so it helps much with eliminating the donut hole, but it remained still a little bit visible. I expected this, and already ordered some thin translucent plastic spacers in the last third of September from KD, so I can lower the reflector a bit – I hope for a just a little more output and even better correction for donut hole. I added GITD ring and blue AR coated front lens as well.

I also swapped emitters in my red and blue Convoy S2+ host (red now has a 2000K CCT, and blue now has a 6500K CCT single E21A) – but to be honest, now it is very difficult to center 20×12.8mm Yajiamei optics because of the smaller footprint – but finally I was successful with a 15° frosted one for each.

Today was a happy day for me.

(I liked the packaging as well – light, and protective.)

SKV89
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adam7027 wrote:
I just received my latest order today.

Thank you very much again – now my Manta Ray C8.2 build with 4500K CCT E21A quad is complete, and while it has one slightly noticeable flaw, it is already very impressive.

I used an XM-L2 gasket from a Convoy S2+ host to prevent the reflector scratching the board (while fastening the bezel), but I think, it raises the reflector a bit too much.

The reflector with this host has a rather coarse OP pattern, so it helps much with eliminating the donut hole, but it remained still a little bit visible. I expected this, and already ordered some thin translucent plastic spacers in the last third of September from KD, so I can lower the reflector a bit – I hope for a just a little more output and even better correction for donut hole. I added GITD ring and blue AR coated front lens as well.

I also swapped emitters in my red and blue Convoy S2+ host (red now has a 2000K CCT, and blue now has a 6500K CCT single E21A) – but to be honest, now it is very difficult to center 20×12.8mm Yajiamei optics because of the smaller footprint – but finally I was successful with a 15° frosted one for each.

Today was a happy day for me.

(I liked the packaging as well – light, and protective.)

Nice. What driver did you use in the Manta Ray C8.2?

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Unfortunately the lights do not use mcpcb’s. Instead they have normal printed circuit boards with lots of vias to transfer the heat.

The helmet light has three Ultrafire optics,2 medium and one spot. Quadtrix probably won’t work that well. The bar light has three medium and three flood reflectors with all six leds in series powered by a boost driver running off a 3S2P battery pack. Low VF would help the boost driver and between the different shaped reflectors and all the led’s Quadtrix might be very good.

I have thought of making up stencils and using some solder mask repair paint to make soldering them on the existing boards possible. It just seems like it would end up being more effort than it’s worth with too many places for things to go wrong.

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SKV89 wrote:
Nice. What driver did you use in the Manta Ray C8.2?

I used the ‘default’ for that host (LC15). It seems to be working fine, and I like the mode spacing as well ( Very Low /more than moonlight, though/, Mid, Mid-High, High).

On High, I can see, that the emitters switch to about ~250K cooler CCT based on my guess, compared to the Mid-High setting.

Probably I could use a driver with 4A max current instead of 3A, but then I guess, tint would be changed more.

Tint now is surprisingly almost perfect neutral with greens feeling a bit undersaturated, but color differences are rendered very exactly. No visible sign of tint shift around the hotspot, at all (one could measure, but I guess, it could be still very low).

I have a Jaxman X1s 5000K 90CRI for comparison, and these are two very different worlds (I like both of the, though).

I think, it would be worthy to have a flashlight with 7-9 E21A emitters arranged like in DQG Mini 3rd, or FireFlies ROT66 (or even 12).

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UPDATE 181108:

The Armytek Tiara C1 Pro is here. There were some you guys asked me about this earlier, but I don’t quite remember all of you. I can only remember:
.
- SKV89 & friends: 2pcs (Tira C1 Pro)
- Bob_mcBob: 1pc (Wizard Pro)
- Slayer1 & friends: 2pcs (Tiara C1 Pro)
- Boris & friends: 5pcs (Wizard Pro)
.
I’ll announce them in the store tonight. Due to my slow processing speed, I rather have all the orders placed before I start to make them in one single batch. Besides, I forgot to order the Yajiamei 60° optics. This alone will takes about 2 weeks from China to Indonesia.
So, those will be shipped around early December 2018.
And I don’t plan to keep selling these Armyteks in the future because my custom order seems too complicated for Armytek to fulfill. Will instead post a complete modification guide later in BLF, so you guys can do it yourself.

Direct link to the product: https://www.virence.com/product-page/Custom-TiaraC1Pro-4xNichiaE21A-R9080

- Clemence

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UPDATE 181210:
Batch of orders #10325, #10326, #10328, #10329, #10330, #10336, #10339, #10341, #10343, #10344, #10345, #10346, and Invoice #29 are all ready to ship.
I supposed to ship them today but I checked the potting compound wasn’t fully cured (it will cured itself within a week), to make sure I put them back in the oven for another 6 hours.

- Clemence

ma tumba
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Not sure I am getting the exact difference between type a and b optics

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ma tumba wrote:
Not sure I am getting the exact difference between type a and b optics

Yes, slight difference on the white wall. B optic will give broader more even hotspot. The A while creates more center lux, also produce (dimly) wider spill. I prefer B for close works.

- Clemence

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Thank you!

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