Poll - preferred color temperature

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RollerBoySE
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Poll - preferred color temperature
3000 K
4% (6 votes)
3500 K
3% (5 votes)
4000 K
14% (21 votes)
4500 K
24% (36 votes)
5000 K
36% (54 votes)
5500 K
7% (10 votes)
6000 K
6% (9 votes)
6500 K
4% (6 votes)
7000 K
1% (1 vote)
Total votes: 148
mrheosuper
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5500K for the win
5000K is good, but too warm for me, i have a cold heart

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The Miller
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Oh dang how specific
For our house lights we went for 3500-3700K but these led based bulbs were very expensive so bow I order “warm white” and it matches good

For flashlights, hmm as long as no green or blue is present I am happy but prefer neutral white (the 3A/B I think ) that is 4000k right?

staticx57
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4000-5000k

MILSPEC
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5000K, got it in my 219b and I love it.

kramer5150
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5000 K for me is ideal too.

teacher
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mrheosuper wrote:
5500K for the win
5000K is good, but too warm for me, i have a cold heart
Amen brother!!! 5500K takes the prize for me too. Thumbs Up

On rare occasions I might do 5000K, if it looks Ok to me…… (No yellow or red though)
I’ll even go up to 6500K if there is no obvious blue or green to my eyes.
But 5500K is the “benchmark” for me. Thumbs Up
.
EDIT to add: I usually try to stay 1 bin on either side of the BBL also

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Peardrop
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The Miller wrote:
Oh dang how specific
For our house lights we went for 3500-3700K but these led based bulbs were very expensive so bow I order “warm white” and it matches good

For flashlights, hmm as long as no green or blue is present I am happy but prefer neutral white (the 3A/B I think ) that is 4000k right?

It’s odd. My LED house light bulbs are 2700K and 3000K and they’ve fine. Stark white house lights are unpleasant in my view.

For flashlights it’s different. I’ve got a flashlight with an XML2 T5 5B (4000K-4200K) and it seems like a dingy yellow. Of course, it appears very white in comparison to the house lights. I think I’m going to change it to something over 6000K when I get round to it.

Maybe it’s being conditioned by using tungsten filament house lights for years?

jon_slider
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The Miller wrote:
(the 3A/B I think ) that is 4000k right?

I think 3A is near 5000k
and 5A is near 4000k
kramer5150
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Peardrop wrote:
The Miller wrote:
Oh dang how specific
For our house lights we went for 3500-3700K but these led based bulbs were very expensive so bow I order “warm white” and it matches good

For flashlights, hmm as long as no green or blue is present I am happy but prefer neutral white (the 3A/B I think ) that is 4000k right?

It’s odd. My LED house light bulbs are 2700K and 3000K and they’ve fine. Stark white house lights are unpleasant in my view.

For flashlights it’s different. I’ve got a flashlight with an XML2 T5 5B (4000K-4200K) and it seems like a dingy yellow. Of course, it appears very white in comparison to the house lights. I think I’m going to change it to something over 6000K when I get round to it.

Maybe it’s being conditioned by using tungsten filament house lights for years?

Also at play here as a variable to what you are observing, is ones own perception of light and color. Room lighting floods an entire area, and (depending on the individual) our brains “normalize” that color temp… so it “looks fine” partially because our brains have auto-adjusted to that as a norm. So those warmer 3000K tints become neutral. If these are high-CRI emitters that will further normalize that warm tint too and the brain will quickly acclimate itself to that baseline.

Conversely a low CRI 4000K flashlight is a single spot of light thats highly portable, and easily taken into various lighting environments. So unless you are in pitch darkness, your brain is going to highlight color differences pretty readily until it has a change to acclimate itself to that norm.

My Manker E11 is supposed to be neutral white, but I would call a slightly dingy beige-yellow. My perception of it though can change depending on what color temps my eyes have adjusted to previously.

Heres an experiment… get your 4000K light, in a dark room white wall hunt with it noting its color. Now get a yellow-orange piece of construction paper, hold it directly infront of your eyes/face. Shine your flashlight at the paper up against your face. Looking through the paper at the sea of yellow-orange… give it 15-20 seconds. Now take the same light and white wall hunt it again. How does the tint compare now?

Rufusbduck
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5000K, 3D has always been my preferred bin but 4500 219’s are just fine too.

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kramer5150
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Curious… has anyone compared multiple emitters of the same exact tint BIN? How identical are they within the same BIN ?

NeutralFan
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4500K to 5000K for me. My last flashlight came with 5000K, 80+ CRI Nichias and I really like the whiteness of it and yet still faithfully reproduces colors.

I’d rather use my flashlight around the house than turn on the lights.

jon_slider
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kramer5150 wrote:
My Manker E11 is supposed to be neutral white, but I would call a slightly dingy beige-yellow.

is it also low CRI, (so its missing red spectrum)

more about “tint” (actually color temperature)

from this thread

jon_slider wrote:
WalkIntoTheLight wrote:
Here’s two pictures, showing BLF-348 (left) vs Astrolux A01 (right).

The first picture is taken with the camera’s white balance set to 4000K, making the A01 appear white.

excellent!
our brain also changes its white balance depending on ambient light
so during the day, 4000k seems more orange than sunlight at noon.
At night, after I have been sitting under 3000k incandescent, the 4000k looks blueish compared to ambient light

that is why when someone says they consider 5000k “pure white”, that just tells me they are looking at the beam during a time when their brain is white balanced to ambient light that is in the 5000k range. That same 5000k beam will look blueish when the brain, or the camera, is white balanced to 4000k, or less.

These changes in white balance make single beam shots not very useful. otoh, showing 3 beams at once will give relative color reference among them. This is why Im interested in seeing the old A01 in the same photo as the BLF 348 plus the new A01. Since my iPhone has automatic white balance, it really helps to have 3 beams in a photo.

for example:

that photo has set auto white balance to the XP-G2, so it makes the 6000k look “white”

fwiw, here is an example of using a folded piece of printer paper for beamshot comparisons. I recommend that approach, as it eliminates any confusion caused by different colors of wall paint.

this photo, above, is comparing two Nichia LEDs, the one in the ReyLight is about 4500k, the one in the L11c is about 5000k

you can see again that the auto white balance on my iPhone has set the L11c as the white balance reference.

I find that having 3 beams works better than 2, when using auto white balance. If one of the beams is from a light source that other people are familiar with, it gives a relative CCT reference for sake of comparison.

kramer5150 wrote:
Curious… has anyone compared multiple emitters of the same exact tint BIN? How identical are they within the same BIN ?

they vary noticeably imo, some are more yellow, or more pink, or more blueish
besides when we buy lights they come from a batch of LEDs, we dont get to specify the tint bin, they are grouped on a roll with hundreds of other LEDs that each is slightly different, but was grouped into the batch for being “similar”

the two lights on the left have LEDs from the same batch of 3000k XPG High CRI leds, they are to me, quite different in tint, one falls above the BBL, the other below the BBL

note in that photo that the Nichia looks “white”, simply because the auto white balance on my iPhone decided it was the coolest sample in the pic, and set its auto white balance to the Nichia

Lexel
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4500-5000K depending on surrounding light

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They all have there place.

Peardrop
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kramer5150 wrote:

My Manker E11 is supposed to be neutral white, but I would call a slightly dingy beige-yellow. My perception of it though can change depending on what color temps my eyes have adjusted to previously.

Heres an experiment… get your 4000K light, in a dark room white wall hunt with it noting its color. Now get a yellow-orange piece of construction paper, hold it directly infront of your eyes/face. Shine your flashlight at the paper up against your face. Looking through the paper at the sea of yellow-orange… give it 15-20 seconds. Now take the same light and white wall hunt it again. How does the tint compare now?

Thanks. It was an interesting experiment. The 4000K flashlight looked very white. A 6500K flashlight looked definitely unnatural. A light with a very blue Latticebright LED looked downright weird, but it always does.

Then I tried hunting around with a halogen lantern – I have a couple I built chargers for and I can’t bring myself to throw them away. I remember years ago when they were bought they seemed to have an incredible light output and were very white compared to even a good light with a krypton bulb. It seemed very yellow compared with the 4000K Led flashlight and rather dim. Also. it’s irritating seeing the artefacts in the beam compared to what we’ve come to expect from halfway reasonable LED flashlights.

Dr Forinor
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For my flashlights, 4000k

grayski74
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For flashlights 5000K.. Tints 3A, 3C and 3D.

For home 4000K.. cosy… 5C1-ish…

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Of the lights I have my current favorite tint is the u3 3d xml2 in the s2 I built. For me the c tints are a bit too greenish.

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3500K. Of course you all may have a different preference but it is just a matter of time, I will patiently wait for you all ending up at 3500K SillyParty

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down with green and up with rose tints!

speaking of neutral whites (what ever that means)

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4000K for home and small lights
5000K for throwers and large lights

Mike

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For me it is Cree high 5A’s and low 5D’s. But, my most liked is the Nichia 219B 4000k.

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