Group Buy: Wuben TO50R HC ("The Flashlight") - 90+CRI, 2500+lm, EDC - CLOSED!

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weklund
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My first of two arrived … I love it. Installed my Towild silicone diffuser and instantly turned my new TO50R into a lantern. The Towild diffuser is a perfect fit. I am super pleased with all aspects of this setup. Acebeam 21700 5100mAh batteries are a perfect fit as well … Smile

Lantern Link:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/TOWILD-bicycle-bike-cycling-light-torch-...

... Happy Landings ...

Kit Latura
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g_damian wrote:
I got mine. Looks like 2 legs are crushed :/

Pink color – holes for legs on the mcpcb.

Does anyone else have this problem?

Edit:

This post shows the cause – there are screws in wrong holes. Just like E07 Facepalm Tired

Edit 2: prototype version looks OK

Mine is also broken

shirnask
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Mine also – guess they all have broken legs

derfyled
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Have not received mine yet. Tracking shows the package has not moved since 12 days. Last time I saw that, the package was sent back to China because of li-ion battery and tracking will not show you that. I wrote to Jason from Wuben 2 days ago to check if they did not received it back but I never had any answer…

Flat Stare
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g_damian wrote:
I got mine. Looks like 2 legs are crushed :/
Kit Latura wrote:
Mine is also broken
shirnask wrote:
Mine also – guess they all have broken legs

These legs are specially broken to screw mcpcb into the flashlight. It’s the same in D4. Look again at my comparison picture:

g_damian wrote:
This post shows the cause – there are screws in wrong holes. Just like E07 Facepalm Tired

The screws are in good holes. These next to don’t coincide with the holes in the flashlight.

g_damian wrote:
Edit 2: prototype version looks OK

The prototype had no screwed mcpcb.

I also think that all four legs should be untouched, and screws in places intended for this purpose.

But what will you do …? ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

Asian8640
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Quote:
The screws are in good holes. These next to don’t coincide with the holes in the flashlight.

I would say that is because they drilled the holes in the wrong place. The mpcb looks perfectly fitted for screws in the adjacent hole with enough space to fit the optic in without issue. Someone, somewhere along the line screwed up and they used a patch job to fix it…

By the way has anyone else’s flashlight come with oil and aluminum shavings in the top threads? I had aluminum shavings underneath the o ring, in the threads, and inside the battery tube that I had to clean out when I got mine. The bezel had machining oil on it as well, inside the three indentations. Also, aren’t the square threads a bit… thin for what you would normally find on a flashlight of this price? It’s a nice flashlight and all, but the build isn’t exactly up to snuff for what it was billed as. The finish quality and attention to detail of my C8F is above that of this flashlight, and I paid significantly less for it. I know we’re mostly paying for the driver, but still…

BurningPlayd0h
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Asian8640 wrote:
Quote:
The screws are in good holes. These next to don’t coincide with the holes in the flashlight.

I would say that is because they drilled the holes in the wrong place. The mpcb looks perfectly fitted for screws in the adjacent hole with enough space to fit the optic in without issue. Someone, somewhere along the line screwed up and they used a patch job to fix it…

By the way has anyone else’s flashlight come with oil and aluminum shavings in the top threads? I had aluminum shavings underneath the o ring, in the threads, and inside the battery tube that I had to clean out when I got mine. The bezel had machining oil on it as well, inside the three indentations.Also, aren’t the square threads a bit… thin for what you would normally find on a flashlight of this price? It’s a nice flashlight and all, but the build isn’t exactly up to snuff for what it was billed as. The finish quality and attention to detail of my C8F is above that of this flashlight, and I paid significantly less for it. I know we’re mostly paying for the driver, but still…

I disagree, you can clearly see in the photos from straight above that the unused screw holes are further in from the edge of the MCPCB, I can’t imagine them lining up with where the screws are actually mounted.

The finishing issues sound like a bummer though.

Asian8640
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Quote:
I disagree, you can clearly see in the photos from straight above that the unused screw holes are further in from the edge of the MCPCB, I can’t imagine them lining up with where the screws are actually mounted.

My point was that the screw holes themselves were cut in the wrong place because there is nothing that could possibly be obstructing them to prevent moving the screw holes a bit inward. The only things that need to be there are the aluminum that forms the shelf, the wires (which run down the center), and those two screws.

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BurningPlayd0h wrote:
I disagree, you can clearly see in the photos from straight above that the unused screw holes are further in from the edge of the MCPCB, I can’t imagine them lining up with where the screws are actually mounted.

If you want the LED to be aligned in each corners of a square when you are holding the flashlight with the switch above, two legs of the TIR need to be on the vertical axis, the 2 others are on the horizontal axis.
They drilled/tapered the 2 holes for the screws on the horizontal axis while they should have drill it with an angle compared to the horizontal axis, right here :

They used 2 holes reserved for the legs of the TIR so they needed to cut it.

BurningPlayd0h
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Tally-ho wrote:
BurningPlayd0h wrote:
I disagree, you can clearly see in the photos from straight above that the unused screw holes are further in from the edge of the MCPCB, I can’t imagine them lining up with where the screws are actually mounted.

If you want the LED to be aligned in each corners of a square when you are holding the flashlight with the switch above, two legs of the TIR need to be on the vertical axis, the 2 others are on the horizontal axis.
They drilled/tapered the 2 holes for the screws on the horizontal axis while they should have drill it with an angle compared to the horizontal axis, right here :

They used 2 holes reserved for the legs of the TIR so they needed to cut it.

Ah I see exactly what you mean, the screws are 90 degrees from the leg holes vs those spots being used for the legs.

I guess I’ll give them the benefit of the doubt and assume there was some reason for it? I know the D4 and PL47 both cant fit all 4 legs of their optics for whatever reason either.

timbo114
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Got mine today, nice quality beautiful beam and tint.

Knurling pattern is very attractive but the entire light is very slippery in hand.

I wonder if I could bead blast areas of the surface (to gain tactile grip texture) without removing the anno completely.

Asian8640
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timbo114 wrote:
Got mine today, nice quality beautiful beam and tint.

Knurling pattern is very attractive but the entire light is very slippery in hand.

I wonder if I could bead blast areas of the surface (to gain tactile grip texture) without removing the anno completely.

I mean you could bead blast it, but I’ve never bead blasted anything and had a resultant texture be “grippy”. Generally, the bead blasting would strip the layer that I intended to remove and did very little to significantly change the texture of the material underneath. If I were you, bead blasting would be a no-go for this sort of thing.

SKV89
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I just received the two I ordered. The packaging and initial appearance of the light looks very premium like Olight, Acebeam, and Armytek. However, once you start twisting it open and looking it upon close inspection, it still is not there yet, but still look better than most of the cheaper brands. I also see the crushed legs of the optic but I wouldn’t have noticed it if not mentioned above.

I’m surprised how bright it is. 2,970 lumens on turbo and more stable than most other lights I’ve tested on turbo. 1,380 lumens on high mode. Low mode is 14 lumens with no moon light unfortunately. This is on fully charged stock batteries measured at 2s. Didn’t see any output boost by using Samsung 30T.

Wuben told me it was an LG M50T but I’m surprised the wrapper says 4800mah. The battery is too long to fit my charger so I can’t test the capacity. It is a tad bit longer than the Acbeam 5100mah protected cell.

The beam is smooth and floody. Appears warmer than the XP-L HI 3A on my E07 and also more green but doesn’t bother me unless I compare it side by side with Cree A or D tints.

The size of the light is a good bit larger than the Acebeam EC65 but I’m guessing it’s because of the dual switch and larger driver?

I still don’t like the two black side switch that is extremely difficult to locate in the dark. Wish they can fix that. I prefer power switch located at the rear for ease of access.

Overall, I am pleased with this light and I intend to bring it with me on trips because of the very useful usb power bank feature.

Asian8640
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SKV89 wrote:
I still don’t like the two black side switch that is extremely difficult to locate in the dark. Wish they can fix that. I prefer power switch located at the rear for ease of access.

I actually find that this is one of those things I’m not having a hard time doing. My clip is tight enough around the body that having it on the oposite side of the switches allows the clip to actas a guide for positioning the light in darkness. The notch uses one of my fingers as a self positioning guide and the height difference between the two buttons is easy to feel for. However, the actuation force for each button is higher than I would have liked. It does help prevent instances of accidental actuation though, so I can’t complain too much.

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Asian8640 wrote:
SKV89 wrote:
I still don’t like the two black side switch that is extremely difficult to locate in the dark. Wish they can fix that. I prefer power switch located at the rear for ease of access.

I actually find that this is one of those things I’m not having a hard time doing. My clip is tight enough around the body that having it on the oposite side of the switches allows the clip to actas a guide for positioning the light in darkness. The notch uses one of my fingers as a self positioning guide and the height difference between the two buttons is easy to feel for. However, the actuation force for each button is higher than I would have liked. It does help prevent instances of accidental actuation though, so I can’t complain too much.

On side switch lights I always have the clip mounted even if I don’t need to clip it on things. It makes a perfect orientation device as noted by Asian8640.

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timbo114
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no moon light unfortunately

Moon mode … hold power button for 2 seconds

contactcr
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Battery tests out to 4766mAh at 3.5A discharge. 49-50mOhm

Asian8640
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contactcr wrote:
Battery tests out to 4766mAh at 3.5A discharge. 49-50mOhm

Thanks! I was wondering when someone would do that. I don’t have a battery analyzer yet (I should get on that) and thank you for doing the leg work and reporting back to us Big Smile

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It’s now official, I won’t get my light. After 15 days of non-existent tracking informations, www.17track.net now shows:

The item cannot be delivered and will be returned

Second time I tried to contact Jason from Wuben but so far, no answer, no update, no support…

Sounds like it will escalate into a Paypal dispute…

UPDATE: MAY 7th: Been finally contacted by Jason. They will look at my case and will come back to me ASAP

Anthon
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SKV89 wrote:
I just received the two I ordered. The packaging and initial appearance of the light looks very premium like Olight, Acebeam, and Armytek. However, once you start twisting it open and looking it upon close inspection, it still is not there yet, but still look better than most of the cheaper brands. I also see the crushed legs of the optic but I wouldn’t have noticed it if not mentioned above.

I’m surprised how bright it is. 2,970 lumens on turbo and more stable than most other lights I’ve tested on turbo. 1,380 lumens on high mode. Low mode is 14 lumens with no moon light unfortunately. This is on fully charged stock batteries measured at 2s. Didn’t see any output boost by using Samsung 30T.

Wuben told me it was an LG M50T but I’m surprised the wrapper says 4800mah. The battery is too long to fit my charger so I can’t test the capacity. It is a tad bit longer than the Acbeam 5100mah protected cell.

The beam is smooth and floody. Appears warmer than the XP-L HI 3A on my E07 and also more green but doesn’t bother me unless I compare it side by side with Cree A or D tints.

The size of the light is a good bit larger than the Acebeam EC65 but I’m guessing it’s because of the dual switch and larger driver?

I still don’t like the two black side switch that is extremely difficult to locate in the dark. Wish they can fix that. I prefer power switch located at the rear for ease of access.

Overall, I am pleased with this light and I intend to bring it with me on trips because of the very useful usb power bank feature.

the light does have moonlight mode, just keep pressed the power button from off

I love the light but it’s too floody, I’d love to swap the leds for XPL HI and the lens for a throwier one

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I have only used my TO50R for about 15 mins(camping trip coming up), no drops or anything, and it spent approximately 30 seconds in turbo non-consecutively. Is this a QC issue?

*Click Click*

contactcr
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What are you trying to highlight in this picture? If that blue is coming from the LED then yes the dome is probably partially removed. Likely when the bezel got screwed on

Vortexbig
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Yes, the blue tint on the LED. Is there a way to re-seat the dome?

*Click Click*

contactcr
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No, it would need that LED removed and new one in its place at the very least.

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Got mine, everything seems solidly built so far, beam is very floody (similar to my 219B PL47 using the same optics + diffusion film) but the tint is already pretty good… whether I slice and dice these emitters is going to be a tough call. I’ll probably get some real-world use and wait for my FW3A before I decide either way.

UI is excellent and its going to be hard to go back to most single side switch UIs except the Narsil/Anduril family. Not as many shortcuts as a ZL but you can actually get to a particular mode faster in some cases and the momentary turbo is really great.

Modes are well spaced, I thought the turbo and high would be too close in perceived brighteness but there’s a big enough difference (and obviously much less heat and drain on high despite them being fairly close).

The buttons are damn near silent and feel good. Moving your thumb or finger between them is very natural since they’re vertically positioned (unlike Eagtac where they’re side by side).

USB cover seats well and isn’t a pain to get out.

Edit: Something weird happening with the UI. If I hold “W” to go to momentary turbo from high, it returns me to low instead, and then when I cycle through the modes I have only 3 of them with high missing from the rotation. No button combo or navigation through the UI seems to get it back, although a quick on/off cycle returns the modes to normal. Holding power to go to turbo from high and then attempting to return to the previous level does the same thing.

Edit 2: Doing a full power cycle seems to have stopped the issue but I’ve taken the battery out at least once between the first time it occurred and the latest so I’m a little puzzled.

Edit 3: I broke out the knife. Its now as throwy as 219Bs in the PL47 with stock optics. Only took ~1/2 the dome off and the color temp didn’t change that much. Still a bit cooler than the 4500K SC600 I have.

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Just got mine today.
I dont suppose you have beam shots comparing before and after slicing
Or could you just post a pic or two of nighttime distance shots so I can sort of compare my stock version to your throwy version?

ty

g

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gottobegeek wrote:
Just got mine today.
I dont suppose you have beam shots comparing before and after slicing
Or could you just post a pic or two of nighttime distance shots so I can sort of compare my stock version to your throwy version?

ty

I can get some wall shots and compare against the 219B PL47 (same optics) with and without DC Fix for sure.

contactcr
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gottobegeek wrote:
Just got mine today.
I dont suppose you have beam shots comparing before and after slicing
Or could you just post a pic or two of nighttime distance shots so I can sort of compare my stock version to your throwy version?

ty

Being lightly frosted with a regulated driver it’s probably not a huge benefit to slice this one unless you just don’t like the existing beam.

With a FET you can still bump up the output to compensate for the lost lumens (assuming you aren’t comparing turbo to turbo). Being frosted will diminish some of the throw from the slice. The better play may be to replace two of the LEDs with 3000K emitters if you want to change tint.

CoolJB
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Got mine yesterday. Haven’t done much but power it up for a minute. Nice beam, color and pattern. I’m perplexed by the omission of a glass lens over the TIR optic though. Never seen a light with the bare TIR optic exposed like this. I’m always careful with my lights anyway, but this is a little puzzling that they would leave the relatively fragile plastic exposed like this. Still seems like a nice light other than that. Magnet is very strong and great clip. For what we paid for it I have no complaints though.

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Will try and get some beamshots tonight, just white walls still unless the weather clears up.

UI is still randomly weird. Seems to happen more when the included battery gets low-ish in charge, and haven’t noticed the issue yet with my other unprotected 18650s and 20700s but I tried them very briefly in this light.

Some more observations:
-Knurling is slippery and poorly designed. Straight horizontal cuts at the same depth would have been way more effective (it would be harder for your hand to slide forward and back over the light) or literally any of the other knurling patterns I’ve felt on any light/tool/gun.

-Pocket clip is beefy and carries very deep. Really like it, even if it being so long makes it super noticeable on pants that aren’t also black. The light is big enough where that’s not really an issue though IMO.

-Magnet is definitely strong. Haven’t taken the tail retaining ring out to see how easy it is to remove but I think it would be, and that’s a huge plus over lights that have magnets which can’t be removed.

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