New WildTrail (former LuckSun) BLF-D80v2 Sale is open.

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Tom Tom
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TheOnlyDocc wrote:
Have i forgotten anything?

Discussion of LED choices and interaction with reflector fine-tuning. Important to get optimum results.

Double o-rings not needed, a single one seals well, done properly. This is not a dive torch.

Retaining ring in head should remain clockwise. The tube is rarely removed from the head, and when tightened up also tightens the ring, if somehow is a little loose.

It is the tailcap that needs a left-handed ring, and/or redesign so the tube bottoms on the metal of the cap, rather than the ring. This is the piece that is unscrewed every time the cell is changed, and tends to loosen. Un-anodised Al to Al contact works here, the constant use keeps the surfaces clean.

Better thread engagement between tube and head, for mechanical and thermal reasons. Square coarser thread not actually necessary here, it should rarely be touched. In fact undesirable, the head should be on tighter than the tail, so if you grasp the head rather than the tube whilst unscrewing the tail, it is the tail that loosens.

Consider masking off anodising from these threads, and inside the head where the driver rests, for an additional current path.

20mm driver is good. If Lexel’s is good I won’t want to change it. It was the original poor one that had to go, and at that time the obvious swap was to a 17mm one, at best a marginal fit, in my case I chose to use a 20mm adapter and file things down to fit.

Short (18350, 16340 etc.) tube option.

Its sounding good.

Hope all goes well for your scan.

Tom Tom
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SKV89 wrote:
If the tube needs to be bigger for 20mm driver, why not just make it 21700 or 20700 compatible.

19.6 to 20mm increase is only 0.4mm in diameter. Personally I don’t see why the tube needs to increase in OD, it is chunky, hardly thin-walled. And the only bit that might need to be slightly larger is where it threads into the head, to allow a larger driver retaining ring to be fitted. But there are also other ways to do that without change.

To take a 21700 that’s requires at least 3mm increase in diameter and 5mm in length, knocking-on to every other dimension. Becoming a quite different much larger torch.

The 21700 cell dimensions are not well standardised, it’s can still be a lottery as to what fits with what, choices and availability are limited, and prices higher.

Then those wanting to keep using 18650s, like me, have to figure out how to adapt them to fit into something 3mm wider and 5mm longer, without rattling or running out of spring length, or adding a magnet. For no practical benefit. If I anticipate needing more run time I just carry a spare cell in my pocket. Which I usually do anyway, saves topping off the cell in the torch every outing “just in case”.

I’ve standardised on 18650, 26650 and 18350/16340 for all my torches, and don’t intend to buy any new cells for a while. A 26650 torch does everything 21700 can, and takes an 18650 with a simple sleeve. And fits my hand better, when I want a chunky torch. Usually I don’t.

Tom Tom
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Further: provide, or make provision for, a clip.

That’s something that attracts strong opinions here, by those who want one.

TheOnlyDocc
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So i got answere from LuckySun.
1. 20mm driver is OK, we will make new tube.
2. Threads change to square, maybe more threads. (i sended a pic i found on the net showing a square thread but it only showed a few turns. It was only to show the kind of thread.)
3.thicker shelf,, deeper finns like the pic (They send a drawing. But they used almost all mass we added to make the finns deeper and add bottlenecks again. I corrected the drawings to show them that we woud like a better heatpath. The lower finns are still a bit deeper. But now there is enough material to get a good heat transfer inside the head)
4. bigger Beryllium Copper Spring (CU-BE) ,maybe 0.8-1mm. (I do not know if they contacted BlueSwordM for the specs. I will contact him to ask)
5.reflector maybe little change, not decided, still at design (The 7mm LED hole is on the plan. And they try to get more throw out of the limited space)
6. 18650 battery from 65mm to 70mm is OK. (I made it a special point. This should be really work out and they will test it so no thing like the last time should happen)
7. As to the driver or UI, will send the DXF to lexel when design is finished.

Tailcap change for Tailstand is also on the list but not mentioned again (no big change)
They looked into the retaining rings. At the tail everything is ok (the last D80 i bought had no problems with the retaining ring. The tube did not make contact to the brass ring in the tailcap. So no need for a change there (only make it fit the slightly bigger tube. At the head they will make a change. First ideas are inn but they are checking if its working like we want. Please give them time. They are working on it.

Here the original drawing

And here with my changes

New WildTrail (former LuckySun) D80v2 Sale has Started http://budgetlightforum.com/node/66255

djozz
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Doing a good job Docc! Thumbs Up

TheOnlyDocc
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Little status update.
I got the message that the factory is very busy these days. But they hope and try to get the Host design ready next week. I do not know how far they are with the driver and the springs but when i get news i will post updates here.
And i got a drawing of the tail. The tube should only make contact on the outer rim. So the retaining ring will not come loose. No need for a LH thread.

And a small side notice. I am writing these finaly lying in my own bed at home. Party
This feels sooooo much better. And without anybody snoring i hope to sleep like a baby wrapped in huge fluffy cotton ball!
I still need surgery in the near future because the internal scaring is making big problems (can not sit to long without pain and other more serious effects). But that is not happening today or tomorrow!

New WildTrail (former LuckySun) D80v2 Sale has Started http://budgetlightforum.com/node/66255

cabfrank
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I’m glad you’re home. Best wishes for recovery!

MtnDon
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TheOnlyDocc wrote:

And a small side notice. I am writing these finaly lying in my own bed at home. Party
This feels sooooo much better.

Home is always so much better than the hospital.. Glad to hear!!!!

BLF Member Map Add your name and location.

TheOnlyDocc
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The DXF files for the new 20mm driver are on the way to Lexel. The Host design is in the making.
The factory is still very busy with customer orders (titanium lights).
I try to get a few more background information about the company (i find it very interesting to get a bit more information about the structure, size. . .). Things like Do they only produce under the LuckySun brand or do they produce things for other companys. . .
If people are interested in this stuff i will let you know (if i get a peek behind the curtain).

And they will also look into TIRs. Maybe the right TIR could give better throw or at least a better more uniform looking beam (less artifacts).

New WildTrail (former LuckySun) D80v2 Sale has Started http://budgetlightforum.com/node/66255

Lexel
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Driver is planned for Bistro OTSM, but I also added pads for e-switch, just if someone want to mod it that way
I marked the cut trace if someone wants to use as well lit switch to separate that pad from battery voltage so can be powered over R1 from MCU

djozz
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Thanks Lexel for helping with the project, a good driver makes all the difference.

MRsDNF
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djozz wrote:
Thanks Lexel for helping with the project, a good driver makes all the difference.

Yes to this. Smile

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

pirate joe 22
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the d 80 is a great design, stay true to the original
if ppl don’t like it, there’s many other lights out there

mountainair26
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I love the d80 with the fet +1 from mtn, the new driver with more 7135s will be even better. Is it possible that this light would be offered with the 3v xhp50.2 in it?

TheOnlyDocc
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The question about the 3v xhp50.2 came up before. As a company you can not sell this led with a FET driver. It is a liability issue. As a modder we can do what we want.
If we blow ourselves up that is our fault. But the shit hits the fan if something like this happens (if you would sell this kind of hotrod to muggles something would happen!!! For sure!!!) with a factory light.
I do not see something like this happen unless you use a regulated driver and limit the current to a safe max. Also not the best led for a dedicated mini thrower.

New WildTrail (former LuckySun) D80v2 Sale has Started http://budgetlightforum.com/node/66255

BlueSwordM
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Yeah, 3V XHP50.2s are not a good idea with a FET driver.

You are basically putting 4x XP-G3s inside of that kind of light.

Something like an XP-L HI/LH351D/SST-20 would be much safer.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

Redlyne22
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A big turbo head 70mm+ with fet driven Olsen flat white.

I’m kindof serious. Lol

Sometimes being a newb is the best part of a hobbie

BlueSwordM
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Wouldn’t that basically be a modded Astrolux FT03 with a slightly modded reflector?

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

DB Custom
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Working on that Redlyne, light due in tomorrow, a unique 67mm aspheric.

Now, we return to the scheduled program already in progress…

TheOnlyDocc
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67mm aspheric? Do you have a link? My last aspheric was the HT35 (not impressed with the design. Fully zoomed out the usable aspheric surfave shrinks to ~35mm. I have a solution for that to get up to 55-60mm usable surface. But have to find a way to mill parts away. But without a round table or something similar i do not know how to do it properly.

New WildTrail (former LuckySun) D80v2 Sale has Started http://budgetlightforum.com/node/66255

DB Custom
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Never bought from this company before and the light is truly unique, would rather wait and see if I found a gem or got had. Lol

I will say that if it is as presented it should rival the XSearcher from Dereelight. And be optionally weapon mountable…

ToyKeeper
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Hi, I just discovered this project so I’m catching up on what’s happening.

Lexel wrote:

Driver is planned for Bistro OTSM, but I also added pads for e-switch …

Okay, so it’s using a FET+5+1 with Flintrock’s Bistro-HD?

Is there any chance of using tiny85 instead of tiny25? I forget if it works correctly with OTSM. It looks like there might be enough room for t85 though, and switching could really expand the range of firmware it could run.

Is it set in stone that the light won’t have an e-switch?

I’m also curious if Bistro-HD has had much testing. Last time I tried it, I ran into multiple bugs in less than a minute… but that was the e-switch version, and I don’t know how the clicky-switch version behaves.

TheOnlyDocc
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We want to stay close to the original D80 design wise (thats what most people answered). And to add a e-switch would change the optic a lot.
Because i am not 100% sure what is going on with new drivers and UI i asked LuckySun to contact Lexel.
But for now everything regarding the driver is not set in stone. Because of that we mailed a lot the last few days.
They want something good and popular but it must be reliably and not cost a fortune.

New WildTrail (former LuckySun) D80v2 Sale has Started http://budgetlightforum.com/node/66255

Lexel
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I remember he tested 45V successfully and 85V did not work reliable

DB Custom
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Is a two sided driver compatible with the retaining ring style LS uses? Well, no, actually it’s not, and they just did redesign work to clear this retaining ring from the tube in the tail cap, reckon they could alter the style to accomodate at the driver. Some of this kind of change really impacts the style though, the retaining rings were unique and I liked em , gotta be trade-offs though huh? Isn’t easy being cheesy… Wink

ToyKeeper
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Lexel wrote:
I remember he tested 45V successfully and 85V did not work reliable

Yeah, I recall hearing something about that too… but I don’t remember if it was ever resolved. However, I’m pretty sure Mike C has OTSM working on bigger MCUs like tiny1634… so I’m guessing there’s probably a way to do it on tiny85. He says he gets about 15 seconds worth of OTSM with a 47 uF capacitor… and all Bistro needs is about 2 seconds.

I’ve been procrastinating for years about getting the Bistro-HD code merged into mainline Bistro. Flintrock’s changes are far too deep and too broad to be easily merge-able, so it’s a large task. Perhaps I could get just the basics of OTSM working though, without all the other changes. Or I could potentially add some offtime support to FSM, and then the UI toolkit would cover both e-switches and clicky-switches.

Not sure when I’ll have time and motivation though.

TheOnlyDocc
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I am a bit confused by all the different versions. What do we have now ready to run? And what MCU would we need?
They have way less problems with the Metal parts (they make them in their own factory). So little changes to retaining ring . . . is not a huge problem.
But if we want a BLF driver we need to help them.

New WildTrail (former LuckySun) D80v2 Sale has Started http://budgetlightforum.com/node/66255

Lexel
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I have no problem going to tiny 1634 and programming key for future driver generations of BLF lights

but on this tail ckicky usually a 25V or 45V is more than enough room for advanced code like Bistro

Lexel
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djozz wrote:
My experience is that it is impossible to explain to a chinese manufacturer the improved board layout as a description of the problem and then an explanation of the fix. You will have to hand them litterally a correct board lay-out. And I can not draw circuit boards. The description of the problem with the Attiny25 based FET+7135 driver ( drop out of turbo when using low voltage leds) and the required fix is here: http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1061998#comment-1061998

This problem is known for years now
the BLF A6 is very old
I never designed drivers without the 4.7Ohm low pass resistor

djozz
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Lexel wrote:
djozz wrote:
My experience is that it is impossible to explain to a chinese manufacturer the improved board layout as a description of the problem and then an explanation of the fix. You will have to hand them litterally a correct board lay-out. And I can not draw circuit boards. The description of the problem with the Attiny25 based FET+7135 driver ( drop out of turbo when using low voltage leds) and the required fix is here: http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1061998#comment-1061998

This problem is known for years now
the BLF A6 is very old
I never designed drivers without the 4.7Ohm low pass resistor


I do the fix for years too Smile
I’m glad you are doing the driver, that ensures a good one and prevents trouble, it would be a nightmare if they attempted to make a driver to our wishes.

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