I’ve done that to two 50.2s now. Not sure about the 70.2 as the P2 1A I have used I have been nice to. The M2 30G 80+ CRI is going to go in the L6.
On the 50.2 it seems like a few times going blue is about all it can handle before it starts going blue using lower currents. Then half the emitter goes out.
Yep burned up a few of them 50.2’s, but the 70.2 is hanging tuff at up to 20 amps, Ive since run the older VTC5’s in the Lumintop, just a hint of blue for a short burst, assuming battery sag is kicking in, been working fine for the last 2 weeks, all 4 dies still looking good, 20 amps or less would be my guess for max current draw, if you want it to live some, my KP’s were giving up like 15 amps in the X6 Hunter, so with their high capacity they would be the best all around battery, again just a guess….
Worse case scenario if I toast them, I’ll re-flow the 4-70.2’s I have as spares and use normal batteries!
Yeah I have a P2 1A in a JKK36 host running only 4 to 5 amps and even that is almost as bright as my M2 30G XHP70 on DD. I also made a mistake, L6 is getting M4 30G 80+ 70.2, 1 bin brighter than my current 70.
ah ha! the wire size to the S70 is 18awg, and the wire size to the L6 is 22awg. remembering that i tried to solder 18awg on the L6 but couldn’t do it as it kept shorting with the reflector.
Oh cool! It’s good to know that 22ga can cut exactly 1.5 amp over 18ga.
A trick you can do with the wire is get the solder liquid and then remove the iron and quickly press down on the joint with something flat and metal. It will flatten the joint so that only the insulation will touch the reflector.
Installed my 30mm driver in the L6 today with an XHP70.2 M4 30G 80+ CRI, and a lighted momentary switch. Loving narsil. I did have to file the driver edges slightly to get it to fit the driver pocket, but no big deal. 18ga wire. Haven’t measured current yet, but its super bright. The L6 reflector also blends the tint of these new emitters well, I dont have much color shift at all in the beam.
Is that built on a board or MCU on it’s own?
Either way is fine, if just MCU on it’s own I’d still need a 30mm board and then I could get the rest of the parts myself, unless you would supply the rest as a kit? I don’t mind either way so long as I’m not messing you about, it’s very decent of you to even offer this