FREEME ✌ ASTROLUX FT03 LUMINUS SFT40 2200lm 1300m NarsilM v1.3 USB-C - On Hold

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komeko
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contactcr wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
contactcr, a bit off topic, but what type of equipment do you use to measure the color temps?

ColorMunki Photo / i1Studio

Can you give x: y values that you got in turbo measurements?

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contactcr
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I don’t think I saved it. I will retake them at some point if I have time

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Got my NW, finally, today. No glue. Yay.

Sphere gave me 1,822 at start, and 1,762 at 30 seconds.

Measured 207,360cd at 20’, a little lower than others

wolfdog1226
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Is this Customary with Banggood?

My order showed SHIPPED on April 2nd.

Then it shows SHIPPED on April 4th

NOW it shows SHIPPED on April 5th??!! WTF.

I am number 27 in queue waiting for live chat.

Solitude breeds contemplation which creates clarity. 

Environment molds a person. Perseverance changes them. 

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neBstress
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My NW was delivered today Smile

No glue, led appears to be centered, amazing value for money.

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I was talking to the manufacture and it looks like the Glue poll from a few weeks ago has had an effect. I was informed that the latest batch of FT03 lights was not glued because of the results from that poll!

wolfdog1226
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Texas_Ace wrote:
I was talking to the manufacture and it looks like the Glue poll from a few weeks ago has had an effect. I was informed that the latest batch of FT03 lights was not glued because of the results from that poll!
Thanks,,,,,,,,,,,do you know Why the 21700 high drains[30T,40T,P42A] have NO affect in providing more output? That has been the results so far w/ the members who have tested the light w/ those High drains.

,Thanks

Solitude breeds contemplation which creates clarity. 

Environment molds a person. Perseverance changes them. 

                                                                   WOLFDOG 

hodor
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Texas_Ace wrote:
I was talking to the manufacture and it looks like the Glue poll from a few weeks ago has had an effect. I was informed that the latest batch of FT03 lights was not glued because of the results from that poll!

Yay! Snaps for TA! Thumbs Up

Texas_Ace
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wolfdog1226 wrote:
Texas_Ace wrote:
I was talking to the manufacture and it looks like the Glue poll from a few weeks ago has had an effect. I was informed that the latest batch of FT03 lights was not glued because of the results from that poll!
Thanks,,,,,,,,,,,do you know Why the 21700 high drains[30T,40T,P42A] have NO affect in providing more output? That has been the results so far w/ the members who have tested the light w/ those High drains.

,Thanks

My guess is that you are past the peak output from the LED at that point and it simply has nothing more to give.

The output of an LED will generally flat line around peak output, so adding more power just causes more heat and reduced lifespan.

contactcr
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wolfdog1226 wrote:
Texas_Ace wrote:
I was talking to the manufacture and it looks like the Glue poll from a few weeks ago has had an effect. I was informed that the latest batch of FT03 lights was not glued because of the results from that poll!
Thanks,,,,,,,,,,,do you know Why the 21700 high drains[30T,40T,P42A] have NO affect in providing more output? That has been the results so far w/ the members who have tested the light w/ those High drains.

,Thanks

Look at any XP-L HI test, look at this SST-40 test

Maximum at 9,200 mA, 2669 lm @ 3.84 V

With voltage sag and added resistance from Springs/components, and vf when u are dealing with a single emitter at 10Amps there isn’t much more to give from a battery. With so many recent multi die and multi emitter lights it’s easy to forget that a single die @ 10A is still double what an XP-L HI will do.

In these tests the vF goes even higher than what a battery is fully charged. Have to put these power supply death tests into perspective.

contactcr
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Also, you say “NO” effect but that’s not true. Run the tests when the battery is 3/4 or 1/2 charged and you’ll see some differences Smile I realize you only use topped off cells but they aren’t all created equal even though it may look close in the first 0-30s

wolfdog1226
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Ok TA and contactcr,Thanks.

Although there are Four engineers in my immediate family, I am NOT one of them[!] and do not understand the electrical components and how they are affected by Batteries/Drivers ect. Beer

I have numerous modded[V54] single cell lights and 3 or 4 batt. torches that BENEFIT and actually require high drains for ultimate performance. I have no idea what is different[other than the driver] between those lights and this one! lol!

EDIT: Actually I do remember that I had[sold] a TK75vn Quad w/ 4 X SST-40 DE DOMED,,,,,,,,,,Vinh told me it did NOT require high drains,,,,,,,GA or MJ1 should be used.obviously they are 10A batteries! I am getting smarter!!!

Solitude breeds contemplation which creates clarity. 

Environment molds a person. Perseverance changes them. 

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contactcr
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I think this speaks well of 21700’s in general to be honest. When we only dealt with FET drivers and 18650’s or crappy low drain 26650’s it probably made a bigger difference going from GA > 30Q > VTC5A

wolfdog1226
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Texas_Ace wrote:
wolfdog1226 wrote:
Texas_Ace wrote:
I was talking to the manufacture and it looks like the Glue poll from a few weeks ago has had an effect. I was informed that the latest batch of FT03 lights was not glued because of the results from that poll!
Thanks,,,,,,,,,,,do you know Why the 21700 high drains[30T,40T,P42A] have NO affect in providing more output? That has been the results so far w/ the members who have tested the light w/ those High drains.

,Thanks

My guess is that you are past the peak output from the LED at that point and it simply has nothing more to give.

The output of an LED will generally flat line around peak output, so adding more power just causes more heat and reduced lifespan.

Do you think using Molicel P42A 45A 4200mAh 21700 will not only be unable to increase output, but may shorten the life of the LED and circuitry?

I was greedy and bought them on sale,never knowing or thinking that this battery is not only unnecessary[no improved output] but could be detrimental to the light itself. I have no other 21700 lights!

21700 has not been good to me! I have had Two other 21700 lights and returned them and gave away the Two 40T’s that were used with them!!! At that time they were $14 batteries,,,now Jon[Liionwholesale] is selling them for $11

Solitude breeds contemplation which creates clarity. 

Environment molds a person. Perseverance changes them. 

                                                                   WOLFDOG 

BlueSwordM
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Well, that’s a problem of FET drivers with modern LEDs that have low voltages to drive them.

The circuitry will be fine, but the LED might not be if you decided to do modifications like even better BeCu springs or a spring bypass.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

JasonWW
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wolfdog1226 wrote:

EDIT: Actually I do remember that I had[sold] a TK75vn Quad w/ 4 X SST-40 DE DOMED,,,,,,,,,,Vinh told me it did NOT require high drains,,,,,,,GA or MJ1 should be used. Obviously they are 10A batteries! I am getting smarter!!!


The MJ1 and GA have a chemical mix in them to maximize their capacity at the expense of generating current. This makes their internal resistance a bit higher. Therefore they don’t generate as many amps when put under a heavy load.

BTW, Mooch considers the Molicel P42A to be a 30A continous discharge cell. So just a bit better than a Samsung 40T, competes with the 30T. For those curious.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

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leftdisconnected
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tm07’s FT03-NW tail amp test showed 9.15A (235,000kcd @10m).

In koef3’s (corrected) SST-40-CW-N4 test, 2000 lumens occurs at 6.8A and the maximum is ~2375lm at 8.4A. Perhaps this is where Astrolux got its “2400” figure, but it’s obviously an unrealistic number as the bond wires start failing at those currents.

nkresho’s NW light starts at ~1820lm (207,360cd at 20’ [6.1m]), which would be around 5.7A of emitter current on koef’s corrected chart, bearing in mind that the chart represents a CW-N4 emitter. Note that this is a rather substantial difference from tm07’s light, both with NW tints, though I don’t know which battery nkresho is using.

Do we have a general idea of how much is dissipated in the driver and wiring and how much actually reaches the LED? Many here are much more familiar with these circuits and emitters than I, so I thought perhaps there were some rules of thumb for different driver designs. As keof3’s corrected test was done with a C8 reflector, I assume it represents a reasonable estimate; the tint/bin would be bigger factors.

RobAllen

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My FT03 status for order #634304XX today changed from “Processing” to “Back Order”. There are many people in line ahead of me and I don’t expect my light to ship for quite some time, but I keep mentioning changes in case others are watching their orders. I ordered via the app on 2019-03-21.

RobAllen

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leftdisconnected wrote:
tm07’s FT03-NW tail amp test showed 9.15A (235,000kcd @10m).

In koef3’s (corrected) SST-40-CW-N4 test, 2000 lumens occurs at 6.8A and the maximum is ~2375lm at 8.4A. Perhaps this is where Astrolux got its “2400” figure, but it’s obviously an unrealistic number as the bond wires start failing at those currents.

nkresho’s NW light starts at ~1820lm (207,360cd at 20’ [6.1m]), which would be around 5.7A of emitter current on koef’s corrected chart, bearing in mind that the chart represents a CW-N4 emitter. Note that this is a rather substantial difference from tm07’s light, both with NW tints, though I don’t know which battery nkresho is using.

Do we have a general idea of how much is dissipated in the driver and wiring and how much actually reaches the LED? Many here are much more familiar with these circuits and emitters than I, so I thought perhaps there were some rules of thumb for different driver designs. As keof3’s corrected test was done with a C8 reflector, I assume it represents a reasonable estimate; the tint/bin would be bigger factors.


Most of those emitter tests are done with a bare LED. Once you put it in a light with a reflector and lens and driver you can typically lose 20% to 30% of the output.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

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leftdisconnected wrote:
My FT03 status for order #634304XX today changed from “Processing” to “Back Order”. There are many people in line ahead of me and I don’t expect my light to ship for quite some time, but I keep mentioning changes in case others are watching their orders. I ordered via the app on 2019-03-21.

My pre-order of FT03 was ordered and paid on Feb 13, but the status just changed from Back Order to “Shipped” a few hours ago..

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NW version
2142 lumens
205 kcd
8,5A
Misplaced bezel O-ring.

Unboxing:

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ZozzV6 wrote:
NW version
2142 lumens
205 kcd
8,5A
Misplaced bezel O-ring.

Just in case anyone was wondering why you measured higher lumens (and I know people will), you use your own reference light, right? ZozzV6 lumens?

Some of the previous users measurements (in the 1600-1700 lumen range) used Maukka’s calibration lights to determine the scale.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

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leftdisconnected
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JasonWW wrote:
Most of those emitter tests are done with a bare LED. Once you put it in a light with a reflector and lens and driver you can typically lose 20% to 30% of the output.

Thanks. I think koef3’s “corrected” test represents an emitter in a C8 reflector, but without driver and lens. If I understand koef3’s updates and follow-up post, the reflector alone seems to cost 6%. If an AR lens costs another 6%, that leaves around 8-18% lost in the wiring and driver.

The koef3 numbers I quote are the “reduced” values, which are labelled “CORRECTED” in the top-most “LED TEST” chart. The other charts only show the initial bare emitter figures. I am somewhat new to the details, but I do understand what domes do and such.

I’ve been reading this and related posts as well, but I was most interested in the difference between tm07 and nkresho’s lights. tm07’s light appears to be making 2000lm or more if both cd figures are accurate.

RobAllen

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I can tell you already you’re going to get way more loss in a reflector than 6%. More like a minimum of 15% to 20% assuming it’s a really good quality reflector. Most are over 20%.

To get a 6% loss a reflector would need to use a silver coating. That’s too expensive for most flashlights. Typically flashlights use an aluminum coating which is a lot cheaper but also a lot less efficient.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

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JasonWW
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In Koef3’s tests, corrected means it’s at 85°C.

Leds lose output as their temperature goes up. The blue line is at 25°C which is about room temperature. That would be like “turn-on” lumens.

Once the light has run maybe 30 seconds that’s where you see his “corrected” lumens at 85°C.

When you measure a light according to ANSI-FL1 specs you measure after the light has been on 30 seconds.

Different people on BLF like to use different times. Some care mostly about turn-on lumens, but most prefer the more realistic number at 30 seconds. I try to include both numbers in my measurements so people get an idea how fast the lumens drop. Of course, with a really powerful light that gets hot super fast, you might have to post the lumens at 25 or 20 seconds.

Note that Cree also lists output for their leds at both 25°C and at 85°C so that’s probably why Koef3 used those exact numbers. He is also probably estimating they are at 85° since you can’t actually measure the junction temperature of the die.

———

Koef3’s follow up post was about luminance which is different from lumens.

Lumens are to total amount of light.

Luminance is the amount of light per square millimeter of the die.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

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markox
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Quote:
Your order (NW preorder #1001) has been shipped out

Mar/05/2019 12:31:20 —-> Apr/05/2019 23:52:47

Lfatman
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240.480 Cd (0”)
230.040 Cd (30”)

NW.
6m.
5,89A at the tail with blue 26650 Liitokala
Perfect focus.

KawiBoy1428
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Got my FT03 yesterday, forgot all about it, what a surprise, surprise, surprise! Big Smile Thumbs Up

. My NW came with the board off center making the spot oblong and fuzzy. Broke the board loose by the screws and the thermal grease, floated it in, it is much better now! Proceeded to clean all contact surfaces with Dykem, a very strong alcohol and then clean again with No-OX-ID leaving a light film/residue behind.

.

. Some readings

. The best reading I got on output was just over 2000lms at turn on, this was the second hit…

.

. When I tested the 30T it actually lost out put from too much current 9-9.4 seems to be the max before output drops from over current on my FT03.

. Indexed the tail cap and drilled the holes bigger for a lanyard also have a clean de-domed SST40 for it, might just leave this one alone, it’s a Keeper for Sure!

. Love Thumbs Up

KB1428 “Live Life WOT

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@Kawiboy, that is way too close to the SST-40s current death.

Seems like the gold wires are having a very hard time keeping up with such a high current load.

They may have been damaged very slightly, which is why the numbers are probably lower.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

P33
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Mine MW just shipped yesterday. Ordered on 3/5.
BG has really upped their game with deliveries, most people here receiving it in about 10 days. Hope to see it arrive before end of the month.

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