Haikelite mt03 mods? Update!

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hannesremo
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Ok, soldered on the r100 resistors, works great, not sure if it’s any brighter though have to test outside!

giorgoskok
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You added 1 resistor in each set of R100s ?

hannesremo
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added 2 per set

hannesremo
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definately brighter, even lowest mode is pretty bright! Not sure if it’s enough for me yet though!

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You could have soldered the R100 resistor in between the other two so they are all bridged.

giorgoskok
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everydaysurvivalgear wrote:
You could have soldered the R100 resistor in between the other two so they are all bridged.

The 2 R100 are already bridged , in other words connected in parallel .

hannesremo
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true, there are now 2 extra per emitter. And let me tell you this thing has got some power now. Even in the lower modes it’s super bright. Just overall ridiculously bright. I dedomed it before, and it got more throw, spring bypass on both ends, and now the reistor mod. The dedome made it lose output, but the resistor mod made it even brighter again. So now it has throw and super flood. Just a beast! But it’s still not enough for me.
Gets hot on turbo after 10-30 seconds now though. Can’t hold it in the hand for more than a minute lol.

hannesremo
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Yeah, but putting one in between those 2, would have been easier. It was a real pain to solder, a real nightmare to solder actually. But my nice soldering station made it a bit easier though.(Tenma digital soldering station) Recommend it! Ok so what’s next? a turbo? Nos? haha just kidding, that direct drive would still be nice though.

everydaysurvivalgear
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I would be interested to know how bright it is. Can you take a picture when ever you get the time?

hannesremo
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Sure I think the dedoming might, have some impact on the output. It still is crazy bright. Imagine if you had 7x xhp70? It could seriously benefit from better cooling though. Stock there is just a copper plate for heatsink+ the head obviously, but I think Haikelite could have done better on the cooling, especially for such an expensive light afterall. Slightly dissapointed to be honest. But it still is cheaper than olights and acebeams etc. Maybe add a fan of some sort, any ideas for additional cooling?

hannesremo
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Heats up in half the time on turbo now, so must habe done something, since it runs hotter lol. Set some paper and plastic on fire lol.

everydaysurvivalgear
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I think the cooling is in the better side compared to the Niwalker MM25MB the MT03 stays much cooler and is brighter. Its always a hard game to play output vs use. You could easily make the light heavier but not every one would like it and use it. So a company has to come in between i guess. To lite you will lose output to quick. To heavy people wont buy the light.

You could make a Copper base plate to help with heat but you would need to make it fit. We should have gotten you to do a before and after amperage reading also. I always forget to do that my self.

Just be careful that the driver doesn’t over heat. If it goes it gives you the excuse to direct drive the light lol

hannesremo
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Yeah have to be careful with that heat! Got some 2 or 3mm copper plate, I could use. I’m gonna put a small voltage display aswell as maybe a temp monitoring display on it, they are quite small. Not so sure about attacking it with a dremel to fit that dsiplay though?

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Yea it depends on where you want to fit it? You can get the flexible LCDs if you dont want to cut a hole for the LCD.

hannesremo
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got some 0,28” small display for voltage, should be fairly straight forward, you can get those super cheap, and you can actually calibrate them. would be nice to be able to monitor it all closely.

hannesremo
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what would happen if I added even more resistors, or maybe bigger ones? How about no resistors?

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Yea the stock MT03 is temperature regulated so it will step down when the LEDs get to hot.

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Some times no resistors gets more power but some driver do not like it.
You can half the value again but its a bit risky to know how much power the driver can handle.

hannesremo
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yeah but still nice to have it on display don’t you think?

hannesremo
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Yeah wasn’t sure the mod was gonna work at first, but it apperently did! Maybe stay safe like this, maybe better driver in the future, we’ll see! I think I’m done posting for tonight, getting late here 2am!

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Yea it would be but it would be a pain to install. Plus then you lose mass for heat absorption. You could place it around the tripod hole.

Few people have done this mod on other lights there are some threads on here.

I woke up a few hours ago its 11am here now.

hannesremo
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That placement was my original plan, maybe an extra hole for a temp sensor aswell!

hannesremo
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btw my Hg2’s only pulled 4 amps on the thorfire blf drive, weird huh?

hannesremo
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maybe make an output jack, one for temp and one for voltage and just plug the display in when checking, remove it after.

unknown00101
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everydaysurvivalgear wrote:
Yea the stock MT03 is temperature regulated so it will step down when the LEDs get to hot.

Stock it has a timed temp check or just a general timed stepdown. After 2.5 minutes it (might) check the temp and steps down. If one were to reengage turbo after the stepdown it will not stepdown again until the time has passed. Assuming nothing is damaged by modifying the output it will likely overheat well before the timed check.

There is no constant temperature monitoring like in an X7.

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Yea it does check the LED temp if its over 60 degrees it wont allow the light to step up apparently. Its not constant monitoring.

I am not sure about the 4s driver.

The reading your getting of amps is held back by your stock Multimeter leads. You need thick gauge shorter wires to plug into the Multimeter.

unknown00101
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everydaysurvivalgear wrote:
Yea it does check the LED temp if its over 60 degrees it wont allow the light to step up apparently. Its not constant monitoring.

I am not sure about the 4s driver.

The reading your getting of amps is held back by your stock Multimeter leads. You need thick gauge shorter wires to plug into the Multimeter.


I didn’t check led temp or stepping up after 60 degrees, but it will definitely go well over 60 degrees on the exterior if you re-engage turbo after the stepdown or presumably if you modify the output, depending on how much it was modified it may overheat even before the initial timer.
hannesremo
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Good morningnyou still on here?

hannesremo
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Shpuld be fine it’s a Mastech my74

hannesremo
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that is why I want a temp display of some sort

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