WTB: Jetbeam RRT01 – Any place to buy it?! + [RRT01 2019 discussion]

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pinkpanda3310
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I will need to take some measurements to double check the exact ID of the rrt-01 head but I’m sure the MTN spacers are too wide – 20.3mm. For reference the diameter will need to be the same as the reduced size of the mcpcb (roughly 15mm going by the comments above).

Edit – also I think Geuzzz was intending to remove the glass and use an unmodified optic for the ‘relatively simple mod’

  

moderator007
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This info is for the older RRT-01.
The inside of the head where the heatsink would fit measures .660”.
The height of the heat sink would need to be .295” if the factory lens is to be installed.
*****IMPORTANT*****
The height measurement for the heatsink is from the bottom of the led shelf. In all the RRT-01’s and TCR1’s I have seen there is a small cut out in the bottom of the shelf to fit the mcpcb that is smaller than the head opening where the heatsink would set. The bottom of the heatsink will not touch the bottom of the led shelf because of this extra little cut out where the mcpcb sets (a little lip). I bore all my triples out first and cut the extra lip of the bottom of the led shelf making it all flat before making the heatsink for good fitment.
,
If you made the heatsink height smaller to account for the space where the heatsink is setting on the lip instead of the led shelf, it could still work allowing heat to travel to the head out the sides of the heatsink. It wouldn’t be as good as setting on the mcpcb shelf but it would probably still work.
,
Without boring the shelf flat and getting rid of extra lip, the heatsink could be made with that extra lip cut into it. I don’t do it this way so I dont have any measurements to help with that.
.
If you didn’t use the lens just add the lens height to the .295” heatsink measurement and that should take up the space.
.
The bottom of the mcpcb shelf should be around .600” (15mm mcpcb with clearance). So that leaves .060 from my .660” head diameter measurement. That means the extra mcpcb shelf lip is about .030 in width. The top of the head where the reflector sets is actually bigger than where the heatsink would set. It has a lip at the mcpcb shelf and another about half way up the head where it increases in diameter at each lip. The top half of the head is bigger than the rest this allows the optic to fit with shaving.
.
If you can make the right size heatsink, the optic and triple mcpcb can be filed down to fit. I filed the first one I made, the second one I cut on the lathe. Can’t really tell any difference, the lathe was just easier.

pinkpanda3310
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I measured the inside of the old rrt-01

A pic of the spacers I made -

Most of the heatsinking goes out the sides. The reason I made it that way is because I wanted to make the mod 100% reversible to stock. Rather than drilling another (5th) hole through the led shelf for routing the led wires I made a pocket under the spacer for the wires. This light is no hotrod so I wasn’t worried about the best possible heatsinking (I can’t see it making a huge difference anyway). Note – the height of this spacer is to suit the modified optics I did. I don’t know what height you would need to suit unmodified optics.

  

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I measured the KD triple optic last night at .243” from the top down to where the legs would set on the mcpcb. That’s the total height installed not the actual height including the legs..
.
On my heat sink, I drilled the triple mcpcb center hole half way thru the heatsink and then marked and drilled the wire holes from the mcpcb shelf at a angle towards the center hole I just drilled. Both wires run up at a angle and met in the middle. The heatsink sets flat on the mcpcb shelf.

Gunga
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Can you sell some of those pink panda?

id30209
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Also interested ^^^^

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pinkpanda3310
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Sorry guys. That was a part of a run i did but won’t be doing again – http://budgetlightforum.com/node/66752

I heard on the grape vine that one is for sale but that is all i know.

  

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I suggested to the seller that he post his offer for adoption, to the RRT-01 Triple LED group buy thread that pinkpanda links to above. Im available to answer questions and to share info about glow gasket and control ring packing upgrades..

since I put some nyogel 767a into the control ring of my pandamod triple sw45 Original RRT-01, it has been dialing buttery smooth.. its a joy to use

theres a bit more to it.. nothing is “just” a simple repack.. a repack moves the light into a whole new quality level of ring feel.. think, buttery smooth, like a nikon lens…

details like including working in extra lube around the edges of the ring, and spending quality time fidgeting with the ring.. etc.. will burnish the contact areas to eliminate gritty spots and create a deliciously smooth, one finger dialing experience. Don’t forget the locktite

.
.
fwiw, this thread
Time to Mod the Jetbeam RRT-01
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/46133#comment-1541410
has a list of most of the parts used to mod the Original RRT-01 into a High CRI Nichia configuration. Also, as a reference, It also links to the spacer dimensions for a Triple LED mod here.. I hope it helps people mod the Original RRT-01 host with some nice LEDs, beams, and dials. Rumor has it the RRT-01 is makes a great Dad Light.. iow, very muggle friendly..lol

equal time
the New 2019 RRT-01 also is being built as a triple, scroll back a page to see a nice one..

for those who dont mod, I think Vinh will do a triple if you ask also.. here are videos of his mods

===

wynand wrote:
I did some deep googeling and found a JETBeam distributer in Australia (Pro-Tactical) who pointed me to this online retailer which still has some stock of the original RRT01

@wynand
I want to thank you for sharing that lead

thanks to your information I have done two group buys and purchased a total of 30 NOS Original RRT-01 light. They are being redistributed through BLF membership internationally, including Singapore, Germany, Holland, Croatia, Great Brittain, Australia, and USA

You can blame me for being the head instigator, but I stand on the shoulders of giants that have contributed skill, research and info about modding parts and supplies. Two of the standouts are pinkpanda and moderator007, to whom I remain eternally grateful for your sharing information, support and encouragement.

Others I credit, with respect, for helping me appreciate the unique benefits of the magnetic rotary UI, include Archibald Tuttle, Tip and Ring, and Fireclaw18

I also want to thank MascaratumB for starting this thread, whithout which I would not have been led to purchasing my first Original RRT-01, thanks to a kind BLF member classified.

there are many more people I could name, most of them are in this thread, that have been kind and helped me with support and encouragement, and some even sent me money.. lol

thank you all for the community effort to bring more Rotary lights into circulation

http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1457046#comment-1457046

moderator007 wrote:
The pill is good ole cheap brass. I just checked for LVP, I dont know exactly what it’s doing,

about brass
what cools better,
copper star to aluminium pill, to titanium body (tcr-1)
or
copper star to brass pill, to aluminium body? (2019 RRT-01)

about lvp
I just tested 2019 RRT-01 driver w triple sw45:
I used depleted cr123 for the low voltage tests

440 lumens @ 3.8v 18350

380 lumens @ 4.0v 16340, I also get 380 w single sw30

170 lumens @ 2.8v CR123

15 lumens @ 2.6v CR123

there was no LVP,
the light just steps down to whatever it can do at any given voltage
but there is plenty of visual warning, by dimming and brightness step downs of the light.
more and more of the dial on the high end of the scale becomes non responsive, and creates no change in brightness

by the time the voltage is below 3 volts, the light is half as bright as on a full charge. I notice that.

a less experienced muggle, would notice the light when its only putting out 15 lumens, and that would not be below 2.5v..

so, for an operator who literally is not asleep, the dimming is obvious, before the battery is in serious overdischarge voltage, below 2.5v

I did not see the flashies you found at 3.0v, just step downs

but I liked learning that the light is going to have to get ridiculously dim, before Im in overdischarge territory.. cause I like to use 18350 and only unprotected fit the Original RRT-01

id30209
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If somebody wants to have 18650 original RRT01 with the matching body then there is a cure for that. See HERE.

One EU store still has few Niteye Eye15 in stock... PM me if you want more info.

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MascaratumB
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id30209 wrote:

If somebody wants to have 18650 original RRT01 with the matching body then there is a cure for that. See HERE.


One EU store still has few Niteye Eye15 in stock… PM me if you want more info.


Hum…isn’t that a “too” old thread?
id30209
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[/quote]Hum...isn't that a "too" old thread?[/quote]

I won't think of it as an old since recent groupbuy for RRT01 is still in motion and some folks was wondering about battery options.

Old by meaning of timestamp yes but when modding is questionable than there's no such thing as old.

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MascaratumB
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id30209 wrote:
Quote:
Hum…isn’t that a “too” old thread?
I won’t think of it as an old since recent groupbuy for RRT01 is still in motion and some folks was wondering about battery options. Old by meaning of timestamp yes but when modding is questionable than there’s no such thing as old.

Sure , I was jus referring to the time it was created and with no further replies Wink
With be old batches being sold currently, jon_slider courtesy, I figured there would be some other stuff related to these lights around !

I would only be interested in an extender to use it with 18650s (like these: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/30949) , not a whole tube. I actually managed to use it with a Convoy or Sofirn tube, but it isn’t water/dust proof Oops

id30209
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Sweeeeet!
Totally missed that thread.

What’s funny is that Niteye15 in EU cost almost like the these extension tubes LOOOOL
And titanium clip is included Smile

UPDATE: the store that had Niteye 15 sold all of it, was lucky to score 1

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id30209
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I need some help. Don’t have my2019 RRT01 with me and i’m about to order some stuff from KD but i left the notes with ‘19 RRT reflector size.

If someone can take meassurement of new rrt reflector that would be great.
Wanna get OP for my other mod.
If it’s posted above please excuse my lazyness.

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jon_slider
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id30209 wrote:
‘19 RRT reflector size.

I have not seen any posts about reflectors for the 2019 model

only the Original RRT-01 has Kaidomain reflector options, because moderator007 bought several to test and shared the info

The reflectors for the Original do not fit the 2019 model

so.. if you feel your 2019 reflector is not adequate, you will need to buy a few to test, and report back on which one works for you

if you want to mod your Original RRT-01 reflector, the kaidomain part numbers, as well as a centering ring that fits are here:

id30209
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Thx John!
Already booked original KD replacement reflectors but i want to try few options for 2019 rrt.

Only i need size of the stock so i can go for possible options on KD

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id30209
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It was about time to post my poormans 2019 RRT triple mod.
Since i’m not a man of photos i only have 3 of them but you’ll get the idea

First, open and disassemble the head as already posted many times. Remove the driver and MCPCB.
I have used replacement driver from Jetbeam which has longer led wires so instead of soldering extra length needed for triple build, i had to cut them.
Open first beer and start filing 3UP MCPCB
Since i didn’t meassure anything i had file and check physicaly fitment in the bottom of upper part of the head (see photo)
After 3rd beer MCPCB with emitters was ready for thermal adhesive (glue) and to be installed in the head. I have Phoby2, 2-component epoxy.


Next day i’ve stuffed the original led board opening in brass portion of the head with thermal pads which can be found in KD store (don’t have a link now)
Now Carclo 10507 was about to be filed which i did, again few beers helped me and at last i had a correct size for installatio.
Please note that neither MCPCB nor Carclo were perfect round circle due to hand tools!

Once you tighten the head back on the brass section, the only thing that’s left is soldering led wires, installation of Carclo, original lens oring and lens (with the bezel ring).
And that’s it.it can be done in few hours (1-2h) but alcohol and wife were crucial factirs not to.
Thermal pads are transfering heat from MCPCB to the bezel since i didn’t have heatsink at that time. MCPCB in this build seats high above brass section, in the bezel.

I have to add that one member shortly after sent me machined alu piece according dimensions of the section where stock led board seats and is to be installed when bezel and barss are connected. And of course i didn’t took a picture and i just realized i don’t have optics photo…damn it.

I believe most of you are familiar with the tasks required to be done once you see pics but if any info is needed, just shoot.

Oh yeah, if someone can post dimensions of stock 2019 RRT01 reflector that would be great.

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Gunga
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Where can I get an aluminum spacer?!

id30209
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My RRT01 original from recent GB, moded and legoed

1

2

 

 

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jon_slider
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Nice 18650 Lego Smile

Unheard
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Are there any replacement LED boards available? Reflowing the LED is beyond anything I could accomplish.

Smile, you cannot kill them all.

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Very nice lego indeed. Thumbs Up

jon_slider
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Unheard wrote:
Are there any replacement LED boards available? Reflowing the LED is beyond anything I could accomplish.

not sure I understand your question, but I think the answer is no

does post 568 answer your question?

and are you asking about the 2019 RRT-01 or the Original RRT-01 from 2012?
and what kind of LED replacement are you looking for?

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If I understand the question correctly, any led in 5×5mm (xml, xhp50) size or smaller 3.5×3.5mm (xpg,xpl,219c,219b) at around 3v forward voltage mounted on a 16mm mcpcb could be filled down to fit.
A copper mcpcb would be better. Finding one just depends on which led your looking to replace it with.
KD sells a few on 16mm copper mcpcb’s. http://kaidomain.com/Flashlight
The 10mm might even work with out doing anything but soldering the wires on.

Unheard
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Hi,

jon_slider wrote:
does post 568 answer your question?
and are you asking about the 2019 RRT-01 or the Original RRT-01 from 2012?
and what kind of LED replacement are you looking for?

Single LED, Nichia 219B/C or optimally E21A in a 2019 RRT01.
moderator007 wrote:
The 10mm might even work with out doing anything but soldering the wires on.

I was hoping for this, thank you! Smile

Thank you both!

Smile, you cannot kill them all.

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Clemence has expressed doubts about the ability of a single E21a to handle the power of the 2019 RRT-01.

Since I like to live dangerously, I just put a 3500k E21a into a comparatively lower powered V11r.. I like the LED very much.. I got mine reflowed onto a 10mm board by Clemence, so all I had to do was solder in the star.

you will need to make a decision about what color temperature you are in the mood for

unless you know you like warm, I suggest you go with something cooler.. like a 4500k

… I suspect Clemence knows what hes talking about, the E21a LED may not be the right choice.
some people like the SST-20
others like the LH351d
both are brighter and less pink than the 219b and E21a nichias…
(I avoid the 219c, its brighter but for a snob like me, “too” green..
however, moderator007 is a wizard when it comes to sourcing parts.. and when he talks, I take notes)

Im still in my Pink sw45k N219b phase..

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Interesting. I found my Astrolux S41 with the 219C to have the most neutral white light. No green, but this was maybe just luck? Actually, I dislike the Samsung (Wuben E05-I) for its greenish tint at 5000K.

I have both SST-20 (D4V2) and E21A (Folomov EDC C2) at 3000K and am convinced that the color contrast is much better with the latter, so this would have been my choice. A really nice LED! But if it can’t cope with the current of the RRT01, I’ll go for the 219C. Quality of rendering is more important to me than color temperature.

Smile, you cannot kill them all.

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Getting a good bin led is pretty much luck. If your buying a specific bin and are guaranteed that bin then chances are high you’ll get that bin.
If your just ordering a specific color then it’s just sure luck if you end up with a good tint. If tint in a specific color is what your after then I would try someone who gives you the specific bin you want. With out the bin code your playing the led tint lottery. There’s alot of led group buys that go on here just so we can get a good bin led.
There’s also some sellers who specialize in good bin tints with high cri like Clemence.
You might contact Clemence and see what all might be available in either a 16mm mcpcb that could be filled to fit or maybe he has offerings that would work in 10mm. He offers a led reflow service, I think for a dollar.
He also has a store. https://www.virence.com/shop

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moderator007 wrote:
maybe he has offerings that would work in 10mm. He offers a led reflow service,

I used a 10mm board from Clemence, reflowed w E21a.. in my V11r

I am very happy with it.

so far so good Smile
but its not in a 2019 RRT-01, which has higher output

since Unheard is OK with the tint of the 219c, I think your link to the 16mm board w 219c is a higher output option.. as long as hes OK grinding down the diameter of the board to fit the 2019 RRT-01

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Need beam shots of that E21a mod Silly maybe compared to the 219b sw45k.
Nice looking upgrade jon_slider, very well centered. Thanks for sharing. Thumbs Up

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