FandyFire HD2010, looks like will be 26650 compatible

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Rockspider
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Oh, but that was my question too! It's out of my comprehension why it goes weird above a given voltage. 

What can I say? Maybe the project is bad, and the 4,1X voltage is above or anyway on the borderline of max allowed voltage for some components, so near or above that they go funky...

As I wrote above, to me this is really strange, because I remember having read that this driver is a PWM Fet driver, so DD ain't really direct drive, but just that the Fet duty cycle goes to 100% (or very close to, I remember Fet need to work switching hi-freq to keep a good efficiency, otherwise at 100% on they are good (very low resistance) but the inner resistance anyway makes them dissipate some heat. 

Cannot explain better why, but when Fet do the switching they are more efficient, thus they dissipate less heat in the meantime.

Hope this makes sense... Tongue Out

Maks4er
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Is this possible to disable strobe and sos on this flashlight?

Tom E
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Several of us replace the driver - problem solved. Can use a Qlite, Nanjg, etc. I custom program Nanjg drivers in this to get any modes you want.

leaftye
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[quote=Tom E]Several of us replace the driver - problem solved. Can use a Qlite, Nanjg, etc. I custom program Nanjg drivers in this to get any modes you want.[/quote]


That used to be less than desirable because the old drivers were direct drive.  If you have one of those drivers, please save it.  One of us may want it.  The new HD2010's are not direct drive, and don't provide nearly as much current.  These drivers aren't desirable at all, and are good candidates for replacement.  I'm planning on buying a few more HD2010's, and I plan on changing all the drivers to increase the current.  Better modes is a nice bonus.

The low mode should be lower.

Tom E
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leaftye]</p><p>[quote=Tom E wrote:
Several of us replace the driver - problem solved. Can use a Qlite, Nanjg, etc. I custom program Nanjg drivers in this to get any modes you want.[/quote]


That used to be less than desirable because the old drivers were direct drive.  If you have one of those drivers, please save it.  One of us may want it.  The new HD2010's are not direct drive, and don't provide nearly as much current.  These drivers aren't desirable at all, and are good candidates for replacement.  I'm planning on buying a few more HD2010's, and I plan on changing all the drivers to increase the current.  Better modes is a nice bonus.

 Dunno about less desireable - I can safely run a AW IMR 26650 (or KK unprotected ICR) battery in a regulated 4.2A regulated driven HD 2010, custom programmed to any modes I want, including moonlight, and get 1,300+ lumens and 45-50 kcd with a XM-L2 on copper. Not sure you can get any more desirable than that in a HD 2010 Smile. I do have a couple of East-092 drivers but wouldn't recommend them to anyone...

leaftye
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Tom E]</p><p>[quote=leaftye wrote:

Tom E wrote:
Several of us replace the driver - problem solved. Can use a Qlite, Nanjg, etc. I custom program Nanjg drivers in this to get any modes you want.[/quote]


That used to be less than desirable because the old drivers were direct drive.  If you have one of those drivers, please save it.  One of us may want it.  The new HD2010's are not direct drive, and don't provide nearly as much current.  These drivers aren't desirable at all, and are good candidates for replacement.  I'm planning on buying a few more HD2010's, and I plan on changing all the drivers to increase the current.  Better modes is a nice bonus.

 Dunno about less desireable - I can safely run a AW IMR 26650 (or KK unprotected ICR) battery in a regulated 4.2A regulated driven HD 2010, custom programmed to any modes I want, including moonlight, and get 1,300+ lumens and 45-50 kcd with a XM-L2 on copper. Not sure you can get any more desirable than that in a HD 2010 Smile. I do have a couple of East-092 drivers but wouldn't recommend them to anyone...

 

Back when the East-092 driver was direct drive there weren't good copper stars like there are now.  A custom driver would result in fewer OTF lumens.  I haven't had a problem with mine running with a TF or KK INR 26650. 

 

The availability of copper stars changes things now.  Now it's possible to get more light OTF only with replacement drivers because the old drivers aren't used in new HD2010's. 

 

You do say you have some East-092 drivers.  Are they the old direct drive type?  Let me know if you want to part with them.  I'd like to build a direct drive HD2010 with a copper star and up to two more HD2010's with a copper stars and modded & unmodded Qlite's.  My old direct drive HD2010 will be the reference.

The low mode should be lower.

Tom E
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Yes, the TF and KK INR's have more resistance, so those would be ok with the old driver. Prior to SinkPAD's, I updated HD 2010's to U3/alum w/KD V2 driver at 4 amps, and they still put out more lumens than the stock HD2010, East-092 driver, did. The T6's on alum don't seem to do much over 5 amps, I'm thinking, just generate a lot of heat.

 Dunno, I just prefer having control over the amps, and not worry about the battery, resistance of wires, etc. I recall back when I had a direct drive C8, had it on high, and totally forgot about it being so freak'n hot w/high amps, I noticed the bezel was loose and tightened it, then the light went out - discovered I twisted the LED mounting on the star - got so hot the solder weakened. That thing was 5+, maybe 6+ amps... No battery life - it's an accident waiting to happen.

I'd have to check my bag of pulled drivers - it's a whole lot of driver boards...

nottawhackjob
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If the bezel’s loose on most designs then you likely have lost full pressure contact from the reflector base to the LED baseplate to the pill face. That means lousy heat dispersion and indeed an accident waiting to happen on extended run times. So it’s no surprise to me that the LED twisted off. Everything’s gotta be tight and snug especially when going direct drive. I bet that C8 would survive just fine with an East-092, though like you say maybe too many amps for a stock alum T6 to begin with but another story again with copper.

“In many things in order to truly understand the small picture you have to understand the big picture first.”

True Color Rendition (TCR)/Simplified Definition: “On a scale of 1 to 10, with 10 being the highest rating, a TCR will equate to what true colors you see in sunlight vs the same object’s colors you see when illuminated with a flashlight. The closer the two are, the higher the TCR rating will be.”

The TCR Reference Standard is the Walmart Ozark Trail OT 50L , Model No. 6103.
It has a TCR rating of ‘10’. $1.00 including batteries.

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