TA has tested it in reality and it works/survives. He can probably explain why better than I can.
I haven’t gotten all the test numbers from him on amp draws, etc… which is why this info is blank in the Specs area. The amp draw may also vary a bit based on the particular emitter used. This has not been decided on yet.
Maybe he can fill in some of those details later today.
Current should be around 9-10A if I had to guess based on my own and VOB’s P2 bin LED testing.
At the same time as the lights are ready. We have no final timeline at this point although I hope for it to not take longer then 3 months. Ideally they will be ready in 1-2 months but just too early to know right now.
Count me in for the Upgrade Kit. I would love to upgrade my GT to XHP70.2 but I still have to find a way to open it. I tried it a couple of times but all tries were unsuccessful. I even broke the locking mechanismen of my vice by tightening it to hard. But this damn cheap vice just would not stop to rotate while I tried to open the head by turning it with a bicycle tube for grip. However it seems like time for a bigger and better vice
What am I missing with the extra reflector option? I understand how a lens can break or get scuffed but it seems the reflector is pretty specific to this light and not much risk of being damaged.. Considering how many people seem to want one I must be missing something though so feel free to point it out to me.
What am I missing with the extra reflector option? I understand how a lens can break or get scuffed but it seems the reflector is pretty specific to this light and not much risk of being damaged.. Considering how many people seem to want one I must be missing something though so feel free to point it out to me.
It is basically a chance to get a 120mm reflector for custom builds. Many many people asked for it in the first group buy but since they could not even get enough reflectors for the group buy lights obviously they could not sell them separately.
I promised to try and make the reflectors available later and this is me following through on that promise.
There is really no need for an extra reflector for most people.
What am I missing with the extra reflector option? I understand how a lens can break or get scuffed but it seems the reflector is pretty specific to this light and not much risk of being damaged.. Considering how many people seem to want one I must be missing something though so feel free to point it out to me.
It is basically a chance to get a 120mm reflector for custom builds. Many many people asked for it in the first group buy but since they could not even get enough reflectors for the group buy lights obviously they could not sell them separately.
I promised to try and make the reflectors available later and this is me following through on that promise.
There is really no need for an extra reflector for most people.
What would be cool is if Lumintop could offer a “premium” version of the reflector. Slow cut, hand sanded to a super smooth finish. It adds time and money, but maybe there are buyers?
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
What would be cool is if Lumintop could offer a "premium" version of the reflector. Slow cut, hand sanded to a super smooth finish. It adds time and money, but maybe there are buyers?
I would be in for it. Might as well go all the way for a light like that but I doubt Lumintop would agree to doing it.
Yeah, I don’t see them offering a better reflector, they had enough trouble getting this quality. The reflector itself is actually fine, the only issue is the coating process and it is quite difficult to get reflectors this large coated perfectly. Better sanding would really not help much.
What am I missing with the extra reflector option? I understand how a lens can break or get scuffed but it seems the reflector is pretty specific to this light and not much risk of being damaged.. Considering how many people seem to want one I must be missing something though so feel free to point it out to me.
It is basically a chance to get a 120mm reflector for custom builds. Many many people asked for it in the first group buy but since they could not even get enough reflectors for the group buy lights obviously they could not sell them separately.
I promised to try and make the reflectors available later and this is me following through on that promise.
There is really no need for an extra reflector for most people.
What would be cool is if Lumintop could offer a “premium” version of the reflector. Slow cut, hand sanded to a super smooth finish. It adds time and money, but maybe there are buyers?
With the right rigid work and tool support, chip evacuation, coolant/lubricity, speeds/feeds/ tool geometry negative/positive/zero and tool tip radius PCD is the way to go to obtain Micro Finish Surfaces with alloy’s. Most don’t even hone cylinders/crank/cam bores any more, they are Micro Sized and Finished with Diamond PCD runners and plain (within a certain lubricity) coolant. Aluminum cam caps on Overhead cam heads single point PCD boring (semi finish) with micro finish carbide,diamond encrusted runners (mirror finish) (Mapal) brand name we use. No more Stones and Honing oil.
All for naught if you cant prep the surface and apply the coatings correctly…..
I hope the conversation kit will be completed with reliable instruction how the head be opened.
This instruction should be mandatory, as well as indication of the level of knowledge required for this replacement.
Opening the head is a matter of brute force unscrewing it from the switch area. No tricks to it, just brute force.
I would not cound on a manual for the conversion kit, they are hesitant enough about even offering them for sale and would love any excuse to not sell them.
Far as the level of knowlage needed, this is one of those cases where if you have to ask, you might not want to attempt it.
A basic rundown is:
remove driver retaining ring
Remove switch retaining ring
Remove head/reflectore
desolder the LED wires from the driver or mcpcb
remove the driver and mcpcb
reverse the process.
The hardest part is opening the light followed by soldering to the mcpcb. This can be quite difficult if you do not have a good and very hot iron.
It should survive fine, the resistance of the springs in the carriers drops the power so the max current should only be ~10A or so depending on the LED selected.
I plan to bypass all of the springs, but I’m wondering if it’s advisable to wire/braid bypass at least the main contact spring when doing the mod kit upgrade?
It should survive fine, the resistance of the springs in the carriers drops the power so the max current should only be ~10A or so depending on the LED selected.
I plan to bypass all of the springs, but I’m wondering if it’s advisable to wire/braid bypass at least the main contact spring when doing the mod kit upgrade?
Bypassing all the springs it is unknown how the LED will handle that. It is possible it could be over-driven then. I would not recommend it.
I am not sure what you mean by the main contact spring? Talking about the “button top” spring on the carriers? Yes, if you were to only bypass 1 spring that would be the one to bypass.
I hope the conversation kit will be completed with reliable instruction how the head be opened.
This instruction should be mandatory, as well as indication of the level of knowledge required for this replacement.
Opening the head is a matter of brute force unscrewing it from the switch area. No tricks to it, just brute force.
I would not count on a manual for the conversion kit, they are hesitant enough about even offering them for sale and would love any excuse to not sell them.
Far as the level of knowlage needed, this is one of those cases where if you have to ask, you might not want to attempt it.
A basic rundown is:
remove driver retaining ring
Remove switch retaining ring
Remove head/reflectore
desolder the LED wires from the driver or mcpcb
remove the driver and mcpcb
reverse the process.
The hardest part is opening the light followed by soldering to the mcpcb. This can be quite difficult if you do not have a good and very hot iron.
Might want to add this, or some version of it; to the ‘Conversion Kit’ section of post 2.
It might save some pain & heart ache as well as misunderstanding further down the road.
A good description too I might add…..
—
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
This blf gt xhp70.2 is very promising. It got TA driver, DTPMCPCB, and p2 led bin.. I measured 7500 lumen @ turn on and 7000 lumen…
Yep, his light is very close to the final production version minus the exact LED spec.
Although keep in mind that the readings done like this are lower since some of the light escapes around the edges. I measured this exact light on my sphere using an L6 reflector so that I would capture all of the light and the numbers were about 10% higher.
This blf gt xhp70.2 is very promising. It got TA driver, DTPMCPCB, and p2 led bin.. I measured 7500 lumen @ turn on and 7000 lumen…
Yep, his light is very close to the final production version minus the except LED spec.
Although keep in mind that the readings done like this are lower since some of the light escapes around the edges. I measured this exact light on my sphere using an L6 reflector so that I would capture all of the light and the numbers were about 10% higher.
Hence my 7500 lumen rating in the OP.
Yes sir. I may not get the best accurate reading.. my light tube is a little bit too small.. this light is definitely the best xhp70.2 without spending $600-$700.
This blf gt is a perfect host for the single xhp70.2. You will get plenty of runtime and excellent heatsink..
Current should be around 9-10A if I had to guess based on my own and VOB’s P2 bin LED testing.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
When are the conversion kits expected?
At the same time as the lights are ready. We have no final timeline at this point although I hope for it to not take longer then 3 months. Ideally they will be ready in 1-2 months but just too early to know right now.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
Count me in for the Upgrade Kit. I would love to upgrade my GT to XHP70.2 but I still have to find a way to open it. I tried it a couple of times but all tries were unsuccessful. I even broke the locking mechanismen of my vice by tightening it to hard. But this damn cheap vice just would not stop to rotate while I tried to open the head by turning it with a bicycle tube for grip. However it seems like time for a bigger and better vice
Against my better judgement, signed up for 1 NW with batteries and an extra carrier. Put “maybe” for lens & reflector, cause…maybe.
What am I missing with the extra reflector option? I understand how a lens can break or get scuffed but it seems the reflector is pretty specific to this light and not much risk of being damaged.. Considering how many people seem to want one I must be missing something though so feel free to point it out to me.
It is basically a chance to get a 120mm reflector for custom builds. Many many people asked for it in the first group buy but since they could not even get enough reflectors for the group buy lights obviously they could not sell them separately.
I promised to try and make the reflectors available later and this is me following through on that promise.
There is really no need for an extra reflector for most people.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
What would be cool is if Lumintop could offer a “premium” version of the reflector. Slow cut, hand sanded to a super smooth finish. It adds time and money, but maybe there are buyers?
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
Until TA and Jason open the BLF machine shop in Houston i guess i wont be needing spares.
I would be in for it. Might as well go all the way for a light like that but I doubt Lumintop would agree to doing it.
Yeah, I don’t see them offering a better reflector, they had enough trouble getting this quality. The reflector itself is actually fine, the only issue is the coating process and it is quite difficult to get reflectors this large coated perfectly. Better sanding would really not help much.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
Signed up for 1, NW, 8×30Qs. Hopefully we can get the bag n lens cap offered with it and no extra $20 shipping to Oz!
With the right rigid work and tool support, chip evacuation, coolant/lubricity, speeds/feeds/ tool geometry negative/positive/zero and tool tip radius PCD is the way to go to obtain Micro Finish Surfaces with alloy’s. Most don’t even hone cylinders/crank/cam bores any more, they are Micro Sized and Finished with Diamond PCD runners and plain (within a certain lubricity) coolant. Aluminum cam caps on Overhead cam heads single point PCD boring (semi finish) with micro finish carbide,diamond encrusted runners (mirror finish) (Mapal) brand name we use. No more Stones and Honing oil.
All for naught if you cant prep the surface and apply the coatings correctly…..
KB1428 “Live Life WOT”
Is there a preferred/easy way to open Giggles?
I hope the conversation kit will be completed with reliable instruction how the head be opened.
This instruction should be mandatory, as well as indication of the level of knowledge required for this replacement.
Opening the head is a matter of brute force unscrewing it from the switch area. No tricks to it, just brute force.
I would not cound on a manual for the conversion kit, they are hesitant enough about even offering them for sale and would love any excuse to not sell them.
Far as the level of knowlage needed, this is one of those cases where if you have to ask, you might not want to attempt it.
A basic rundown is:
remove driver retaining ring
Remove switch retaining ring
Remove head/reflectore
desolder the LED wires from the driver or mcpcb
remove the driver and mcpcb
reverse the process.
The hardest part is opening the light followed by soldering to the mcpcb. This can be quite difficult if you do not have a good and very hot iron.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
I plan to bypass all of the springs, but I’m wondering if it’s advisable to wire/braid bypass at least the main contact spring when doing the mod kit upgrade?
Bypassing all the springs it is unknown how the LED will handle that. It is possible it could be over-driven then. I would not recommend it.
I am not sure what you mean by the main contact spring? Talking about the “button top” spring on the carriers? Yes, if you were to only bypass 1 spring that would be the one to bypass.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
Yes, that’s the one.
Ok, I got the list formatted for HTML and while it is not perfect it shows how many are signed up.
The totals are at the top of the list.
http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1344275#comment-1344275
We are at 121 Giggle Monsters reserved right now!
Not bad at all, if we can keep spreading the word at this rate we just might be able to see what that 500 unit discount would be.
I do not have any Social media accounts and do not use Social media.
So feel free to share this thread all you want or even copy/paste from it if needed (although linking is preferred).
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
It might save some pain & heart ache as well as misunderstanding further down the road.
A good description too I might add…..
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart
Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help??? TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal
This blf gt xhp70.2 is very promising. It got TA driver, DTP MCPCB, and p2 led bin.. I measured 7500 lumen @ turn on and 7000 lumen…
Yep, his light is very close to the final production version minus the exact LED spec.
Although keep in mind that the readings done like this are lower since some of the light escapes around the edges. I measured this exact light on my sphere using an L6 reflector so that I would capture all of the light and the numbers were about 10% higher.
Hence my 7500 lumen rating in the OP.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
Yes sir. I may not get the best accurate reading.. my light tube is a little bit too small.. this light is definitely the best xhp70.2 without spending $600-$700.
This blf gt is a perfect host for the single xhp70.2. You will get plenty of runtime and excellent heatsink..
Signed up for one conversion kit.
link to djozz tests
If the data is updated I will provide the charts
Hope this helps.
Thanks a lot, that does indeed help, I am going to post it in the OP as well if you don’t mind.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
Don't mind you posting at all and please send me the data and Ill make some nice charts .. Glad to contribute!
I plan to update the data 1-2 times a week or so depending on free time.
Although come to think of it, does anyone really need to see all the raw data?
Since everyone has an edit link to their own data, a simple chart to show the totals should be all anyone needs to see I would think.
Can anyone think of a reason why a summery of the totals would not work since everyone can now view and edit their reservations directly?
If not then a basic summery would be much cleaner and I could even move it to the first post.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
What was the title of the confirmation email? I’m asking because I cant find it. I’m pretty sure I didn’t delete it.
Boycott Nike
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