YES!
I am right in the corner of Tukwila, Renton, Skyway, and Seattle. It will still be about 4 weeks until then, so it is probably better to order now. It only takes about 3 days for packages to make it from here to Seattle, so that's only about 2 days difference.
Absolutely! We can dedome them to make the xp carlco optics fit, right?
You are correct sir. Just like with the XML’s.
I’d be interested in a single XP-L on the center of the 32mm board, should be a direct replacement for the SN6X-2X, then I can screw it down to the base
Soon. I received a few samples but there were not a lot of them produced in the first run.
A few triple XP-L are now available, domed and dedomed.
Richard, on your triple builds do you solder those little copper jumper things on there? I can’t decide if I want that or not. (Triple XPL of course)
I usually just bridge the pads with solder unless the customer requests and pays for the jumpers. No real difference except for looks.
Just put in an order for some more cells and XP-L’s bare. Been waiting for those…
Hopefully I made the correct choices on the cells, I have the SupBeam K50 V2 on the way so that’s the 4 18650’s, and a Yezl Y3 with extended tube needs 2 26650’s. Please have a look and let me know if these cells I ordered are right for those lights.
Not sure if the K50 is regulated or not, if so, I’ll be able to swap those into a light like the Terminator that is modded and in direct drive…right? 
K50 is regulated if you look away from sag the 1st minute and a power decrease.
No need for anything high drain, even when modded. The highest capacity Panasonic cells will give you the best performance/runtime.
Say, running the triple XPL in Sinners Cypreus, will I still be running into the same issues I did with the triple XML? Smoke sparks and destruction that is.
The issue there is the triple board itself. Like going back in time with the board, forward with the emitters. Remember when the copper stars advanced the whole curve? That’s when amperage jumped up. You can’t keep using that kind of power to emitters on a sub-par board without going to a lot of other trouble to compensate. And therein lies the problem.
Put XP-L’s on a Triple Noctigon, de-domed, shove it in that Cypreus with a BLF17DD and watch 2000 lumens roll out the front of that little copper jewel.
Dale, I think you misunderstood; I think he is talking about running a Noctigon board this time.
I think you will have a much better chance on the Noctigon. I am building one by the by in an S3 with an FET driver...should be pretty hot with a 25R. Probably a 45 second run or something crazy like that but we'll see.
Richard;
Do you find the limits for the lights you sell by modding lights with greater and greater maximum current levels until they self destruct in a given time or is the limit set by the LED manufacturer’s listed maximum drive current? Possibly a combination taking into account light mass, LED mounting thermal path characteristics, push to failure point etc.?
The triple XP-L on a copper Noctigon shouldn’t cause you any issue in the Cypreus. Sorry Scotty, totally misread that. Too many concussions recently, eyes not working right. (like the rest of me) 
It seems like most modded lights around here are driven well beyond the manufacturer’s spec. Even some stock lights do this. For example, the XP-G2 in the new XinTD C8 is driven at 3.04A even though its spec says it shouldn’t go above 1.5A. A modded SRK with the BLF driver runs at about 12A total, or 4A to each emitter, even though the spec says no more than 3A. The stock TN32 seems to be driven at 5A or more when the spec says 3A. It’s mostly just a matter of what you can get away with, how much heat the host can handle.
Ok, Cypreus on the way, triple XPL and various doo-dads ordered. One more luminous hand cannon in the making.
There is no limit set by the LED manufacturer that we don't surpass...by a large margin at times. The amount of heat generated, mass of the light, surface area, etc. all determine how long a light can run at maximum output.
I generally don't run them to the point of failure because when the light becomes uncomfortably hot to touch and the output begins to sag badly because of the heat then that's far enough.
For us down South most of the year our hot rods heat up very fast. For those in the North with cooler night time temperatures the lights can run longer.
I met up with a couple of the guys here back in November and we had us some fun with about 80 favorite lights. It was in the low 40’s, breezy, we were freezkin and the light’s would hardly heat up at all. Even the biggest baddest of the lights wouldn’t make decent hand warmers. So it’s also going to be dependent on the conditions where the light is used.
I just put a dedomed triple XP-L in an S3 host with an FET driver -- it does over 3500 lumens OTF (according to my meter) with a 20R at almost 11A. As you can imagine, that is an insane amount of heat in this small host. I recommend using a Pana PF or BD with this setup, it tones things down a few amps but you still break 3000 lumens with way more runtime.