Glad you like them! I don't have a reliable way to measure lumens, I have a light meter but no integrating sphere or anything like that (yet). I can compare lights using ceiling bounce but that's pretty primitive and only mildly useful as a back-to-back comparison tool otherwise I'd let you know what I am getting out of the 4.4A and 5.8A triple builds with 2B, 3C, and 5A1 emitters. I did one this last week with one 2B, one 3C, and one 5A1 emitter on the same star with an 10507 optic. The tint really turned out nice! They blend nicely with the 10507 optic and the result is surprisingly neutral with pleasant color rendition.
Re: the triple MT-G2... I think that the FET will drive it (or maybe a pair of them), but you are going to run into many other problems trying to drive three of them from only 2S. We really need to go 6S then run in series to have a chance with batteries, wires, switches etc. otherwise the amps would get crazy high.
Oh, that's good though. He's got the same lightbox I have . You might be able to get the same lightbox in exchange for a nice custom high powered light (or two?) of course... I use a nice light meter others use, and it was like $35 off of eBay - think it' still available.
I ran my L2M shorty triple in direct drive on an AW IMR 18350 at just over 7A when I first assembled it. Even on 3 ounces of copper it was really too much heat but sure is impressive! I’ve got that one running 5.23A now for 1487 OTF at 30 seconds. At 3.75A it made 1163 OTF at 30 seconds. This is the triple Noctigon w/XP-G2 R5 2B’s I got from Intl-Outdoor before you first started carrying them Richard. I got the bare board and re-flowed the emitters myself. The first one from you is in my chopped AA Mini Mag at 2.96A making 738 OTF at 30 seconds on a small aluminum pill in that small light.
Dale - good info. So yours at 3.75A was doing better than mine at 3.85A, but I'm only using a Pana PD, and maybe the 2C vs. 3C. Should retry mine on a Sam 20R I suppose, but don't think it will make a difference.
For the lightbox ... Dale, what do you think? Do you think Richard could get one? I'm thinking it may cost a 5.8A triple S6 (or two)?
I’ll give em a shout and see what they think, I’ll hit Ricky up, you holler at Rodney.
Edit: I got 1152 at 30 from Efest 18350 V2’s. Not a lot of difference over the AW’s, but direct drive saw almost 2A difference…the AW’s were awesome and the Efests dropped off. So up there on the high end, some cells are naturally going to do better than others. Like Richard is figuring, the Panny’s are going to fare better overall than the 20R’s with the high power MT-G2, I’ve already seen that on my testing. Bigger numbers in output initially from the 20R’s but they get passed up before too long at all and the 20R doesn’t finish strong. More or less the same starting amperage when in the 5-6A range.
Yes - the 20R's do give out quick, but the 24R's... Those I'm interested in hearing more about. Should be same power as the 20R's, just longer runtimes, but should be higher output for longer too.
I would like to see one of those multiple LED drop ins but using a good 356nw UV LED. Maybe even a combination of different UV LED’s (3x365’s and 2xhigher nw’s) to get the best of all worlds. Any chance of this happening?
I wonder what results I’d get if I pulled all the 7135s off one of my spare DrJones Lumodrv 105cs and replaced them with the FET, plus zener diode mode and used them to drive my modded Sunwayman C20C with MTG2 on 2x18350.
Probably 5.5A-6A with IMR 18350s. Just be aware that some modes don't work well with fast PWM at some frequencies. Phase correct PWM seems to fix this issue. With the standard qlite firmware, for example, low and high modes work well but mid (33%) is inconsistent and can cause some funky results. I haven't tried it yet with NLITE, which uses fast PWM but is slightly different than the qlite's PWM setup.
Yeah good point. I have no idea what type of PWM is in DrJones’ lumodrv. I’ll have to ask him.
I wonder if there’s any possibility DrJones would let you sell his other drivers, like lumodrv (paying full price to DrJones of course, plus a service fee to you). It would cut shipping times a lot to be able to have a driver supplier in the US instead of Germany. And I love his drivers.
NLITE does not work with the FET, uses fast PWM. The old version of luxdrv (0.30b) he released source code for does, though. And the two latest 'free' versions, minimo for momentary switches and minidrv for clicky switches, work also. I'm pretty sure all his current paid versions are using the non-squealy fast PWM. (all the FWs that work with the FET are going to squeal at you a bit in the middle modes, the only thing I found that gets rid of that is to use a shielded inductor but can't do that on the 17mm drivers, only the bigger stuff like the SRK drivers)
I don't know what's in BLF-VLD, I haven't spent much time looking at that.
. You might be able to get the same lightbox in exchange for a nice custom high powered light (or two?) of course... 
I use a nice light meter others use, and it was like $35 off of eBay - think it' still available.
