Group Buy-BLF X6-SE OP update-GB over.

[NightSpy]

Thanks Blinky1 for finding Krono’s reasoning.

Now I feel justified in my offering a solution. After all, I thought that is what the purpose was in the “eval” process.

It can’t hurt to ask Eagle Eyes on what they have in their toolbox!

If nothing else, a few hack tips from Eagle Eyes would be nice to have in our back pockets.

[backtoback]

Hello I am the number 93 of the list.
You could update me with 2 flashlights : 1 NW and 1 CW
Thanks

[max]

@Tom E

…………… I also looked at adding some copper inside the pill, but the opening to accomodate the 17mm driver is narrower than the width of the pill top underside, so impossible to get a one piece copper penny or round in there that would butt up against the side walls. Maybe someone can come up with something on that - I don’t have any ideas.

Hey Tom, I added some copper to the inside of the pill (under the LED shelf) using 16mm copper discs soldered together. Due to the limited space in there the finished copper disc was ~ 4mm thick. Had to cut reliefs on two sides for the LED leads. As is often said “any copper is better than none”.

Here’s a photo:

Here’s where I wrote and posted some more photos of the X6 in Posts #6 and #11:

https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/28481

[T.H.Cone]

I’m confused, is this still going on? If it is, I’d like to be included for one NW. Thanks.

[Blinky1]

@cone

I’m confused, is this still going on? If it is, I’d like to be included for one NW. Thanks.

Yes, it is still on. We don’t even know the modes, or the final price yet. Production will start when things get decided.

@JaredM

I think if we fix the spacing in a similar fashion to my original proposal, which aligns with what Dale and JM think, it’ll be good enough to pretty much call it a day.

BUT, with that said, IF THERE IS an option for EEs to simply write in a provision for memory on/off OR switch mode order (H>L, L>H). Then we should look at pursuing that. I think a 20-30 click cycle to turn memory on/off for example could double the satisfied members/customers.

And please, everyone keep the arguing to PMs if its necessary. I hate for anyone’s patience and good will to be negatively effected this late in the game. A lot of work has been put in thus far, and we ALL should be thankful.

Yes, fast cycling through all the modes 3-4 times sounds like a great way to enable/disable the memory. It could even change mode groups that way. And everyone would get the UI they prefer.

[Tom_E]

Hi max - recall your post bout it now. Wondering if the copper made contact to the side of the housing in the pill. Not sure how effective it would be without that contact. Idea is to give more mass to the pill top and bigger path for the heat to escape to the body/housing. Some debate the effectiveness, but I think it would help somewhat, depending on runtimes and temp differential between LED and outside air. If the copper is only making contact to the pill top, doesn't seem as effective. Not sure if Dale did anything on his super X6's inside the pill cavity.

[SVG223]

In for one NW, thanks.

[Blinky1]

@Tom E

Hi max - recall your post bout it now. Wondering if the copper made contact to the side of the housing in the pill. Not sure how effective it would be without that contact. Idea is to give more mass to the pill top and bigger path for the heat to escape to the body/housing. Some debate the effectiveness, but I think it would help somewhat, depending on runtimes and temp differential between LED and outside air. If the copper is only making contact to the pill top, doesn’t seem as effective. Not sure if Dale did anything on his super X6’s inside the pill cavity.

This is a bit offtopic, but that copper plate could be cut in half, to allow it fit in there and contact sides too.

[DB_Custom (Dale)]

I didn’t add anything to the 3 I’ve hot rodded. They get hot but cool quickly.

Edit: I should say I didn’t add any heat sinking.

[BLightSam]

@Richwouldnt

BLightSam;
Opinionated aren’t you, and you know what they say about opinions.

And you are not opinionated, I presume?

You do not have to point the light at yourself to have night vision very badly affected by a light that turns on in maximum output mode.

Didn’t know max output is detrimental to vision. Don’t they have max output to see things better?

Just reflection off of anything aimed at can do it. As an amateur astronomer I know that from experience. Even the full moon affects night vision adaptation.

Of course the full moon affects the night vision to the extent that you don’t even need a flashlight in night hike. Should we be shooting down the full moon? And shouldn’t the max output be banned?

JohnnyMac’s “wait” I interpreted as “I prefer to give you measured output rather than BS”

As I said, my “dance around” refers to the “wait”. So mode sequence is not spelled out yet according to JohnnyMac. But according to DBCstm it’s already spelled out by 400 members.

[Rod911]

@JohnnyMac

List updated in post #1447

Little correction in mine with the list. There’s a CW in amongst there (1 CW and 3 NW). Thanks.

[SIGShooter]

In for a NW one. Darn these glowing and positive reviews!!

[FastEddie]

I could definitely use a couple of these lights.
Put me down for 1 NW and 1 CW please.

[Livinloud]

Lol the logo was leaked

[Pulsar13]

I’m in for one NW.

[one41]

As post 1447 stands now, missing a lot that came after, here’s the stats:

NW: 285
CW: 142
NP: 95
Needs fix: 4 (Users # 42,131,145 need something for a preference shown, and user 405 has an incorrect entry[see posts 1041 & 1043, they were both requests for nw])

Could anyone be trusted to update the list that’s willing to do it? If needed, I’d do it.

[bkling]

@JohnnyMac

List updated in post #1447

Bro
I am on the No 440 list. I wish to add on additional 1 more CW light. So finally I will have 1 NW and 1CW.

Thanks

[blackhorse95]

I would like one of these in NW.

[T.H.Cone]

@Blinky1

@cone

I’m confused, is this still going on? If it is, I’d like to be included for one NW. Thanks.

Yes, it is still on. We don’t even know the modes, or the final price yet. Production will start when things get decided.

Thanks, Blinky.

[ToyKeeper]

@Blinky1

@DavidEF

@CrashOne

I think that’s because you need a very low frequency, which will cause a light to be unusable because of the flickering.

I don’t understand this. It would seem to me that a higher frequency would be better for lower modes, or at least as good. Can someone explain to me why moonlight mode would require a low frequency PWM?

PWM works by turning the LED on/off really fast. It is hard to turn 1000lumen light on/off so fast that it would appear to be 1lumen, while still making the light appear like it would not be blinking. The “on”-time would have to be 1/1000 compared to the “off”-time. There should be lower current controlled mode to allow the 1lumen mode work properly by using PWM on that lower current controlled mode instead of the full 1000 lumens.
I’m not expert on this, but that’s how I understand it.

PWM for moon works just fine if you have the right driver. A qlite driver or flashed nanjg driver can do a nice moon mode with rather fast PWM. My EDC gets 0.14 lumens on moon, at 18 kHz, down from a maximum of about 450 lumens, which means the on-time in its duty cycle is about one hundred-millionth of a second.

I find it to be a nearly ideal moon mode — bright enough to light an entire room at night but dim enough not to kill my night vision.

The hard part about doing a moon mode this way is that it’s highly dependent on the small differences in individual parts. On one unit it might get 0.14 lumens, while on another it might get 0.29 and another might barely light up at all. Also, it’s rather inefficient since it spends most of its time ramping up and down instead of emitting light. Slower PWM makes it less sensitive to individual part differences, but it also doesn’t look as good.