Hmmm, my 5As do not look so yellow, but look rosy… is XPL tint significantly different from XML and XPG?
As for the 1000 vs 1300 lumens, more than I expected too, but just know its pretty difficult to actually perceive this type of difference in real usage unless you have 1000 and 1300 lumen lights on next to each other or are working at the end of the lights range.
Are you bragging?!! 
There is no regulation in turbo mode. The lowest three modes use a current-regulated chip and stay pretty stable. The three high modes under turbo have partial regulation, so they will still exhibit a direct-drive type of output curve but not as steep as turbo.
But that 80CRI was never confirmed, bugsy, Neal?
Looking at the difference output I think so too and if they sourced it along with Noctigon from Intl-outdoor, all current listing there for XP-L 5A3 is 80+CRI.
ironically neither where any bins confirmed we talking about the most amp and brightness but we not confirm the bin of the led which can influence brightness significant a big surprise to me
its like i buy a VW golf 1.6liter engine btu then not discuss 16V or 8V or 12V which makes it a different car almost in terms of power V stands here for VALVE not VOLT
You can not be sure about this from the output from 1 flashlight alone, if Dale's 3D led is at the top of its bin and the 5A at its bottom, differences can be surprisingly high. (I should do a basic calculation to back this up with some guessing which bin was used, but it's weekend now and the sun is shining 
)
Do it, but yeah, on a rainy weeknight, not a sunny weekend.
Early results say the 3D is a significant amount brighter than the 5A, which is still great, with a nice warm color. I’m eager to hear about the first 1A that someone gets.
Thanks for the feedback on your experiences. I ordered the 3D and I dont expect it to be here for another week or so. The comments made re the 3D version brightness sound awesome. Looking like a great GB.
I used the A6 5A last night and in real world use outdoors the tint made less difference to me than I would have thought. I found myself in mode 4 or 5, searching for an item in our shed and spotting a bolt stuck in a flat tire, plenty bright in use and the tint was really of no consequence.
I had the 3D in a pocket, my new Ti X6 Nichia Quad on the belt, didn’t bother to go for either as the 5A was getting the job done.
At the end of the day (pun?) that’s what matters, it gets the job done and is quite bright in use. 
Shining it down our lane, some 250 yds from where I was, it’s actually quite impressive. 
I spot a bad mindset here, wrong vibe, you need fixing man 
. You have a duty here and 'it gets the job done' is not how to fulfill that demanding task.
;-)
Yes, you can use solder wick, but solder quickly so the solder doesn't flow up through the wick. If the wick takes in a lot of solder, it becomes stiff and subject to breaking when the spring flexes. The bottom should go to the PCB board - you want it to touch the ring of the PCB board where the spring mounts, but it can still touch the spring - that's fine. Clearly, where the spring mounts to the PCB, the electricity flows, so there's an electrical connection there.
Pat - plan on several attempts. You probably won't get this working on the first try. Test out your bypass by plunging the spring several times - compress it down pretty far to simulate what the battery will do when you screw on the tailcap. Verify the solder joints hold up and the solder wick is not kinking/breaking. Don't worry about the battery touching or not touching the spring. Electricity takes the least resistance path, so doesn't matter.
The spring is higher resistance than copper wire or solder is, so the goal is to put some flexible copper wire from the top of the spring to the board (or even better all the way to the switch). If you strip a bit of wire (silicone insulated is a good option), and solder it to the board inside the spring with the free end sticking up through the center of the spring. then cut the wire a bit above the spring and strip it at the top of the spring. Then solder that end to the top of the spring, hopefully leaving the surface mostly flat so it makes a good contact for the bottom of the cell.
I don’t understand these high amps values in such a small light… how hot does it get in this summertime? Are you guys using it only for a minute or so?
A Tripple in this sized flashlight with similar driver , you cant hold it longer then 2 or 3 minutes on high level.
Can the battery survive at these temps?
Batteries can get pretty hot in these flashlights. But these lights are not about ultimate safety, about leaving them unattended and giving it to your 2 year old. These are flashlights for flashlight enthousiasts: they are well thought-out and will probably work fine at all times but they are near the performance limit so you have to accept that things can go wrong.
+1
One problem I have noticed with my original EE A6,is that glass is sitting directly on metal,and very thin O-ring is between glass and reflector… This telling me that the head is not waterproof.Also if you try to put O-ring in front of the glass, head’s edges are slightly in conus so they bump out the ring when you try to tighten the head… My BLF A6 D3 is on the way so I hope it will be better, if not I will have to putt thicker O-ring for better sealant.
BTW my NW EEA6 getting 2.85A on tail with samsung25R,and it gets very hot in a minute, so I can just imagine how much the new one with 5.8A will be hotter. :evil: