But then the other 3 wouldnāt get any use, or I would have to spend like $60 to upgrade the other 3! lol
I great light just got way better. ZOMG!
Interesting. Certainly looks like they used my files posted on osh, but for some reason opted to use 0402 or 0603 sized resistors. I designed it for 0805 size, which are much easier to see and solder and buy.
Also, those resistors are redundant/parallel, so you only need to populate one of them.
I wonder if itās possible to get my boards printed where they did. They look nice and thin.
No, the boxes were leftovers from other items, no extra switch or lanyard or other accessories were included (just the two clips, pre-installed). Firmware is an early version which needs recalibration and maybe other changes. The samples arenāt quite the same as production units.
I think Neal has something in mind already for the boxes, but I donāt know the details.
BTW, I thought maybe teflon tape would work to provide a tail lock-out on the steel/copper modelsā¦ but I tried it, and it doesnāt work. It makes the threads smoother, tighter, and more waterproof, but even with a dozen layers the threads cut right through it and re-establish electrical contact.
Too good to pass up, throw me on the list for one of those purty SS/CU sets (NW) if thereās room.
Another great reason to keep the light in stock form.
They all have clip grooves so including a clip on each seems like the right thing to do.
Now that itās dark, here are some pictures of the glowing tailcaps as they compare to other glowing things at three different levels of ambient lighting. Iād estimate the tailcap at about 0.01lm or 0.02 lm, but my light box canāt accurately measure that low. I literally have to press the lighted boot directly against my lux meter to make it register above zero.
From left to right: Cu X5, SS X6, L3 L10-219 (0.06 lm), Meteor M43, ZL SC52 (0.11 lm), Blackshadow Terminator
Any comments on how hot to the touch the aluminum X6 feels on turbo in comparison to the SS X6?
Thank you all for the great pictures!
I notice that the threads are cut deeper than the rest of the inner diameter non-threaded surface further down into the head so I expect that the non-threaded surface will be the one that the spacer will be matched up to, not the threaded surface. So no need to thread the spacer. The minimal dead airspace left by the empty threads can be filled with thermal grease.
A spacer could be made to match up with the threaded and non-threaded area but the spacer is not that thick so the top of the spacer may not even reach the top of the threads.
Tailcap lockout is not possible with the SS/CU-Ligths, isnāt It?
No.
Great pics TK, Iām really liking the lit tailcap; do you happen to have a GITD replacement cap you could pop on? Is it too dim to light up a regular black tailcap cover (curious)?
BMW had a similar issue where the new M2 is as fast or faster than the M4.
I hoped I could resist. But no ways. Put me on the list for one CU/SS NW please 
TK, do you find the tailcaps too bright?
Light up a black tailcap boot? Umā¦ no. But I can do GitD.
Awesome, thanks! Looks like it might do okay with a light blue I picked up a while back.
I dont know why I have been waiting, the flaslights look amazing
I start with one SS/Cu NW
Please add that to the list.
Thanks Dale
My X6 triple with an alu spacer and a GA cell weights 203g, or about 200g with a high drain cell instead.