I saw some of your code posts in the Anduril thread… I dont understand any of it, and I have no idea how to flash Anduril… Also dont have any pogo pin adapter… I tried to learn, but so far, its all sounds like Geek to me :innocent:
I hope you enjoy your triple mod, and look forward to beam photos :+1:
Modified deep-carry clip from an FWAA. I cut off the backbend and added an extra bend near the tip. I also added a bit of Talon Grip tape to the underside of the clip where it meets the head. It was also necessary to add a thin conductive washer around the inside of the tailcap to ensure electrical connection with the body. I used a piece of thin brass sheet cut into shape.
Also modified a washer to stuck around the button to reduce chance of accidental activation. I cut a washer into a rectangle following a mod someone else showed in a prior post. I used a steel washer cut and sanded into place with a Dremel. The washer came out great. Looks like the light was manufactured with it.
Emitter replaced with an SST-20 4000K FD2.
DQG Tiny IV.
This is one I had previously modified with triple SST-20 4000K FD2, Carclo 10507 optics, extr copper heatsink under the star, and a FET+1 driver from Mountain Electronics running Anduril firwmare.
Recently I updated this light to add a backlit switch, using a single green LED. I replaced the black rubber boot with a modified glow in the dark one that lets the green through. My cuts around the edges of the new switch boot are a bit rough, but this is only noticeable when looking very closely at the light. The switch backlight is controllable through the installed firmware and can be disabled if desired.
I also added a raised ring around the switch using a modified steel washer. I cut the washer down into a square shape, then filed off the edges to be rounded. I also filed the underside of the washer to hug the curved contours of the light. The washer makes the light feel much more secure than stock. The button is much easier to find and there’s almost no chance of accidental pocket activation. With the raised switch ring I feel confident carrying this light set to turbo with no lockout in the pocket.
The raised switch ring is held on with JB Weld and is completely removable. I am undecided whether to keep it, remove it, or try a different washer design. Functionally, it works great, but from an aesthetic perspective it looks a rougher and more handmade than I’d hoped. If I decide to keep this retaining ring I would likely use some putty and paint to fill in and hide the tiny gap where the washer meets the light.
The clip currently on this light is from a Lumintop EDC18. It’s bigger and deep carry.
Main LEDs off, backlight on.
Main LEDs on, backlight off. When the light is turned to high power some of the main light shines back through the rubber boot causing the boot to light up white.
Wowtac A6
This one I had previously modified to replace the stock emitter with triple SST-20 4000K and Carclo 10507 optic.
Recently, I shortened the body tube from 18650 length to 18500 length.
I used Old Lumen’s “human lathe” method. I chopped the body tube in two about 1cm below the top of the knurling near the head. Then using a Dremel sanding drum I thinned out the inside of the larger section of tube near the top of the knurling. I did the opposite on the small section with the threads for the head: I sanded down the outside portion and the remaining knurling. Once the grinding was done it was a simple matter to slot the two sections together with JB Weld. Very strong and came out pretty well.
The shortened tube. The join between the two segments is at the top of the knurling. Note: this was my first attempt at using Old Lumen’s method of shortening tubes so I used a not-so-pristine tube at the start. The scuffs in the slot for the clip are unrelated to this mod.
I got a Lumintop GT Pro knowing I really don’t like the 50.2. Swapped it out for an SFT40 ( radically thick copper MCPCB!) and then dealt with the orange peel reflector. Hand sanded it up to 2000 grit, polished it with 3M car polish then sealed it with a Ceramic polymer.
Very happy with the hot spot, pulling 10.31A from a Molicel P28A, and making 2040 lumens.
I’ve ordered a reflector from Lumintop, may just stick with this one anyway. We‘ll see.
Did the proud button thing again to my new Convoy M21B.
Took it a bit further this time though with some glow resin.
I’ll post better pics later when I have time to take them.
Last week I got the LT1mini and although it was nice enough as it came, I wanted to improve the CCT’s (most important: warm should be warmer) and duv’s. So I changed all 4 leds, the cool leds are now Nichia 519B 4500K R9080 (from Simon, my last 2 :cry: ), the warm leds are sliced Luminus SST-20 2700K 95CRI (from Kaidomain).
Stock:
Swapped:
The results (highest output, but the tint does not change a lot at lower settings) :
In between setting:
CCT=3300K
Duv= –0.0035
CRI=97.8
R9=97
There you go, already very good tints were changed to great tints, with both cool and warm tints going down in CCT, the trade-off is some output loss on the warm setting. Happy camper!
Nice work djozz, eking out every last bit of CRI possible.
Thanks to the example of your earlier mod of the Acebeam E10, I was encouraged to try modding mine. I like the E10 low/no spill optic but wanted to try a larger emitter for a more suitable hotspot. (Also like the good UI and compact size.)
The E10 MCPCB is customized for mounting of the special optic and designed for the 3030 footprint Osram CSLNM1, so I tried my hand at mounting a 3535 emitter onto the original PCB. The largest 3535 hi-CRI emitter I have on hand is the Samsung LH351D (4000K).
It took multiple reflow attempts to get the alignment just right. First reflow attempt had bad continuity, I think center pad had too much solder and lifted one side of the emitter. Second reflow attempt passed continuity test but also exhibited a short between anode and the PCB, fortunately detected by DMM which I always do before putting into service. Third attempt was successful. Tricky.
Acebeam E10, about 20ft from wall, color/tint about what I see. Still relatively throwy -
Received an SC21 Pro
The tint is typical LH351d, the beam is clean:
On my meter, muggle floor is 3 lumens. top ramp is 175 lumens
advanced has a floor of 0.1 lumens, a memory preset of 3 lumens, a ceiling of 400 lumens and a turbo of 890 lumens.
mod to 5700k dedomed 519a: .
Advanced has a floor of 0.1 lumens and a turbo of 800 lumens (10% less than the LH351d)
In such a small reflector, there won’t be much coverage anyway, so I’d say it’s a very good deal.
I have sbt90.2 in S21B and it doesn’t have much throw.
I wasn’t aware of a power driver, and from MTN in 17mm form. Fully configurable down to the temperature step-down. By far my interest would be in DD. Dabbling with high-power LEDs, the bottleneck is in drivers.
Curious to know what cell can deliver 25 Amps (and sustain enough Vf)? And what wiring gauge was used (this too is a bottleneck)?
MTN seems like the only company to sell FET-drivers sadly (which is why I ordered PCBs to make my own in the future)
I used the ultra basic firmware with 1–20–100% and the driver without the 7135 because I don’t expect to use the torch much except giggling for a few seconds
The wiring is 22AWG and the driver spring is bypassed directly to the LED and the switch spring is bypassed as well obviously
I used the Molicel P42A as my go to high-power 21700
Looking over some data posted by 2100 (link), the emitter would need 3.2 Vf at 10k lumens. The Moli should be able to sustain that. The 22 AWG is another thing though. I’ve been using 18 AWG and getting poor results at 20+ amps. Like 5.7 amp loss on .6 Volt drop.
I’d like to order some 16 AWG (silicone) but the sheathing makes it too thick for some builds. I think someone mentioned an alternative. Google search result: GORE Aerospace (link).
You can ask sofirn for their drivers. You sound like you could be better served with a bench power supply though, or you need to pour a coolant like liquid nitrogen on it lol. For some reason you strike me as someone who’d enjoy amateur rockets.
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