Thanks all
Nice Haukkeli, fun isnāt it?
One day youāll look back and go Wow! Iāve modded 1,000 lights! 
And then youāll look at your post count here and goā¦ Shut Up! No way! LOL
Flashlights seem to multiply scary fast.
Sounds like a challenging mod vonroyale. Understand why you didnāt want to post photos, but its always nice to actually see the struggles modders have gone thru. The good, the bad, and the ugly!
And maybe someone wouldāve done something similar and figured out a way to resolve the issue.
Iāve been fairly busy with drone related stuff lately, now Iāve combined drones with flashlights for a āprototypeā mine explorer. I took an adjustable angle dual LED headlamp with spot and flood, cut of the cable (original UI horrible), soldered it to an old dual LED headlamp driver I designed years ago and hooked up each LED channel to a pinout on the drone flight controller so I can turn each individual LED on or off as I please with the drone radio controller.
It isnāt pretty and for now the LEDs are powered from a 1S lipo taped under drone and are only running just over 1 amp each but itāll do for testing. Improvements can be made later. The drone itself is a GEPRC Crocodile5 Baby with crossfire (TX running at 1W) , DJI Air Unit for digital FPV unlocked to 1200mW and a Caddx Peanut for video recording.
Now time for bed, heading down into a mine tomorrow for testing.
I changed XHP70.3 Hi 4000K 40G 80cri to my Convoy M21B. Definitely throwier but it does have a donut hole. Too bad, I had high hopes for this combo.
Edit:seems like only half of the led lits up. I have to reflow it again to see if that fixes the problem.
Very cool! :+1:
Great drone! I hope for videos 
Lumintop Ti Tool AAA sw35 and Tir
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pic is a link to more pics
Thanks. Unfortunately the mine I wanted to go down into was not suitable as the ice needed to walk around on had started to melt. Itās usually think enough well into May. But I couldnāt just go home again as it was a fairly long drive so I went down into another one on the same area. The problem with that one is thatās itās enclosed so itās extremely dark in there, the original one is open at the top and letās in a lot of light. I did do I test flight in there but I originally had no intention of flying in large chambers in total darkness, the LEDs on the light where not enough. Too scary to fly down there as there are deep water filled shafts down there and they where not frozen either. I didnāt want to loose it (noob pilot) so I only did a quick test flight.
I did a quick test in a small tunnel, the kind of environment I intended to poke around in from larger open shafts in the original mine. No issues with lighting then, and video signal strength held up for this short tunnel.
So it was a bit of a bummer that I couldnāt go down into the original mine. I do however intend on returning and rigging an alternative way down to some ledges so I donāt have to relay on ice. Anyhow, it was a fun testā¦ I might just have to make myself a custom driver for drone LED lighting
I like smoking jacket ending
Thanks for the videos, never seen anything like those mines. What were they digging for, coal?
Iāve actually checked the jacket. All looks fine with it, just a little dirty
Iron ore. It was shutdown during the late 70s. Hopefully Iāll be able to complete rigging on the mine I intended to go down. Here is a video clip I put together from a visit to it some years ago. As you can see on the youtube thumbnail we rappel down onto ice. I need an alternative way down when the ice isnāt trustworthy.
great video, thanks 
Not yet a mod, put I decided to post these pictures anyway. Convoy M21F GT-FC40 boost driver has an interesting construction compared to the other Convoy drivers. M21E has the same driver also.
No more as universal as older Convoy drivers.
OOooo I really like that.
Not so much a physical mod, but Iāve been recompiling and updating all of my Hank lights with the latest Anduril 2 with my personal tweaks. Iāve also been trying to āfixā the dual channel d4/d4s driver firmware for proper turbo and no tint ramping on lights with flood and throw channels.
I also sent Cheule my 1st run FW3A mcpcb for a sw45k ā20 reflow. I can reflow singles, but I donāt like messing with triples on a cheap hot plate.
Inspired by CRC2 Proud Button mod
MiJomi J81 with Proud Button, Nichia 519A 4500k, Partial (old and crusty) oven cleaner ano removal and resized Sofirn SP35 clip
Also made a proud button to Wowtac A1ā¦ looking for more lights with a forward switch. 
I made another lantern like the last one (quad 2700K lantern) using some more leftover parts. This time with triple KD 4500K Nichia 219B LEDs. I didnāt like the tint of them in my flashlight.
I removed 3 of the 7135 chips on the Convoy driver to bring the current down to 1 amp.
Same routine as before by making a heatsink out of washers.
The hardest part was drilling little holes in the top washer to secure the MCPCB. I finally learned to use oil when drilling to prevent the small drill bit from breaking! I then found some equally small screws that I was able to screw into the holes by carefully screwing in a little, backing off, screwing in some more, etc.
Here they are side-by-side. Both are set to mode group 5 (1, 20, 100) and seem similar in brightness. 20 will probably be enough lumens most of the time. Looking forward to getting them outside this summer!
thanks for the kind words
I saw some of your code posts in the Anduril threadā¦ I dont understand any of it, and I have no idea how to flash Andurilā¦ Also dont have any pogo pin adapterā¦ I tried to learn, but so far, its all sounds like Geek to me :innocent:
I hope you enjoy your triple mod, and look forward to beam photos :+1:
Bunch of recent mods:
From left to right:
Sofirn SP10 Pro.
- Modified deep-carry clip from an FWAA. I cut off the backbend and added an extra bend near the tip. I also added a bit of Talon Grip tape to the underside of the clip where it meets the head. It was also necessary to add a thin conductive washer around the inside of the tailcap to ensure electrical connection with the body. I used a piece of thin brass sheet cut into shape.
- Also modified a washer to stuck around the button to reduce chance of accidental activation. I cut a washer into a rectangle following a mod someone else showed in a prior post. I used a steel washer cut and sanded into place with a Dremel. The washer came out great. Looks like the light was manufactured with it.
- Emitter replaced with an SST-20 4000K FD2.
DQG Tiny IV.
- This is one I had previously modified with triple SST-20 4000K FD2, Carclo 10507 optics, extr copper heatsink under the star, and a FET+1 driver from Mountain Electronics running Anduril firwmare.
- Recently I updated this light to add a backlit switch, using a single green LED. I replaced the black rubber boot with a modified glow in the dark one that lets the green through. My cuts around the edges of the new switch boot are a bit rough, but this is only noticeable when looking very closely at the light. The switch backlight is controllable through the installed firmware and can be disabled if desired.
- I also added a raised ring around the switch using a modified steel washer. I cut the washer down into a square shape, then filed off the edges to be rounded. I also filed the underside of the washer to hug the curved contours of the light. The washer makes the light feel much more secure than stock. The button is much easier to find and thereās almost no chance of accidental pocket activation. With the raised switch ring I feel confident carrying this light set to turbo with no lockout in the pocket.
- The raised switch ring is held on with JB Weld and is completely removable. I am undecided whether to keep it, remove it, or try a different washer design. Functionally, it works great, but from an aesthetic perspective it looks a rougher and more handmade than Iād hoped. If I decide to keep this retaining ring I would likely use some putty and paint to fill in and hide the tiny gap where the washer meets the light.
- The clip currently on this light is from a Lumintop EDC18. Itās bigger and deep carry.
Main LEDs off, backlight on.
Main LEDs on, backlight off. When the light is turned to high power some of the main light shines back through the rubber boot causing the boot to light up white.
Wowtac A6
- This one I had previously modified to replace the stock emitter with triple SST-20 4000K and Carclo 10507 optic.
- Recently, I shortened the body tube from 18650 length to 18500 length.
- I used Old Lumenās āhuman latheā method. I chopped the body tube in two about 1cm below the top of the knurling near the head. Then using a Dremel sanding drum I thinned out the inside of the larger section of tube near the top of the knurling. I did the opposite on the small section with the threads for the head: I sanded down the outside portion and the remaining knurling. Once the grinding was done it was a simple matter to slot the two sections together with JB Weld. Very strong and came out pretty well.
The shortened tube. The join between the two segments is at the top of the knurling. Note: this was my first attempt at using Old Lumenās method of shortening tubes so I used a not-so-pristine tube at the start. The scuffs in the slot for the clip are unrelated to this mod.