I got a Lumintop GT Pro knowing I really don’t like the 50.2. Swapped it out for an SFT40 ( radically thick copper MCPCB!) and then dealt with the orange peel reflector. Hand sanded it up to 2000 grit, polished it with 3M car polish then sealed it with a Ceramic polymer.
Very happy with the hot spot, pulling 10.31A from a Molicel P28A, and making 2040 lumens.
I’ve ordered a reflector from Lumintop, may just stick with this one anyway. We‘ll see.
That reflector came out nice!
Did the proud button thing again to my new Convoy M21B.
Took it a bit further this time though with some glow resin.
I’ll post better pics later when I have time to take them.
Last week I got the LT1mini and although it was nice enough as it came, I wanted to improve the CCT’s (most important: warm should be warmer) and duv’s. So I changed all 4 leds, the cool leds are now Nichia 519B 4500K R9080 (from Simon, my last 2 :cry: ), the warm leds are sliced Luminus SST-20 2700K 95CRI (from Kaidomain).
Stock:
Swapped:
The results (highest output, but the tint does not change a lot at lower settings) :
Warmest setting:
120 lumen
CCT=2500K
Duv= –0.0027
CRI=97.2
R9=85
Coolest setting:
180 lumen
CCT=4200K
Duv= –0.0007
CRI=96.5
R9=98
In between setting:
CCT=3300K
Duv= –0.0035
CRI=97.8
R9=97
There you go, already very good tints were changed to great tints, with both cool and warm tints going down in CCT, the trade-off is some output loss on the warm setting. Happy camper!
Nice work djozz, eking out every last bit of CRI possible.
Thanks to the example of your earlier mod of the Acebeam E10, I was encouraged to try modding mine. I like the E10 low/no spill optic but wanted to try a larger emitter for a more suitable hotspot. (Also like the good UI and compact size.)
The E10 MCPCB is customized for mounting of the special optic and designed for the 3030 footprint Osram CSLNM1, so I tried my hand at mounting a 3535 emitter onto the original PCB. The largest 3535 hi-CRI emitter I have on hand is the Samsung LH351D (4000K).
It took multiple reflow attempts to get the alignment just right. First reflow attempt had bad continuity, I think center pad had too much solder and lifted one side of the emitter. Second reflow attempt passed continuity test but also exhibited a short between anode and the PCB, fortunately detected by DMM which I always do before putting into service. Third attempt was successful. Tricky.
Acebeam E10, about 20ft from wall, color/tint about what I see. Still relatively throwy -
Received an SC21 Pro
The tint is typical LH351d, the beam is clean:
On my meter, muggle floor is 3 lumens. top ramp is 175 lumens
advanced has a floor of 0.1 lumens, a memory preset of 3 lumens, a ceiling of 400 lumens and a turbo of 890 lumens.
mod to 5700k dedomed 519a:
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Advanced has a floor of 0.1 lumens and a turbo of 800 lumens (10% less than the LH351d)
compare dedomed 519a 5700k to sw45k D180:
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The dedomed 5700K 519A turned out very nice jon_slider! 
thanks! fun times dedoming 519a!
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After a few days I remembered to post it here as well for those who aren’t on reddit.
SFH55 LED in a S21A
17mm MTN-FET driver
Around 25A at the tailcap
Estimated >10.000 lumens at startup
Too hot to hold after 20s
Wow ! Very nice
Must be fun toy 
That’s awesome. PIONEMAN on aliexpress has some for sale.
Tom E’s test: The BIG LED SFH55 - 11 x 10 mm 3V no dome monster
At 25A it’s brighter than SB90.2 for 1/3 the cost but half the throw
In such a small reflector, there won’t be much coverage anyway, so I’d say it’s a very good deal.
I have sbt90.2 in S21B and it doesn’t have much throw.
I wasn’t aware of a power driver, and from MTN in 17mm form. Fully configurable down to the temperature step-down. By far my interest would be in DD. Dabbling with high-power LEDs, the bottleneck is in drivers.
Curious to know what cell can deliver 25 Amps (and sustain enough Vf)? And what wiring gauge was used (this too is a bottleneck)?
MTN seems like the only company to sell FET-drivers sadly (which is why I ordered PCBs to make my own in the future)
I used the ultra basic firmware with 1–20–100% and the driver without the 7135 because I don’t expect to use the torch much except giggling for a few seconds
The wiring is 22AWG and the driver spring is bypassed directly to the LED and the switch spring is bypassed as well obviously
I used the Molicel P42A as my go to high-power 21700
Looking over some data posted by 2100 (link), the emitter would need 3.2 Vf at 10k lumens. The Moli should be able to sustain that. The 22 AWG is another thing though. I’ve been using 18 AWG and getting poor results at 20+ amps. Like 5.7 amp loss on .6 Volt drop.
I’d like to order some 16 AWG (silicone) but the sheathing makes it too thick for some builds. I think someone mentioned an alternative. Google search result: GORE Aerospace (link).
You can ask sofirn for their drivers. You sound like you could be better served with a bench power supply though, or you need to pour a coolant like liquid nitrogen on it lol. For some reason you strike me as someone who’d enjoy amateur rockets.
I just don’t see how I could use even bigger wires in such a small host like the S21A
I already had to enlarge the holes in the pill sideways
Also I’m not sure the host can handle even more heat, if it were something larger that maybe can even accommodate 25mm LED stars by default sure
Does Sofirn have both E-Switch and mechanical clicky drivers in varying sizes?
I can’t fit a bench psu in a torch and I got too many expensive hobbies already (dancing [ballet, ballroom, Latin], torches, classic car, [Astro]photography)
Yes they do, you can ask. Some drivers are better than others for the same model, like the SP33 driver changed from buck/boost to FET.
Luna your life and hobbies sound wonderful!