the easiest way to turn off the Hybrid memory timer, is to turn off Manual Memory… 
works for me… LOL!
true confession
I experience FOMO when I change the default settings…
but I know I have to overcome the peer pressure and learn to stand on my own principles…
Thanks Unheard & jon_slider, got it!
10c to Default hybrid manual memory, threw me off. thanks for the advise to get from hybrid to standard manual memory.
I can see hybrid manual memory as a nice feature. For me in the future
Yeah, as people mentioned… the default config is:
So it uses automatic memory during use, but after being off for 10 minutes, it resets to the saved level of ~8 lm. This gives it the benefit of automatic memory, without requiring the user to remember between sessions. It uses a predictable brightness at the beginning of each session.
When you change the level, it doesn’t change the timer. This has confused a lot of people, because they didn’t realize the timer was enabled, because no other Anduril light has used this type of default config.
With other Anduril lights, the default was 0 and 0 (manual memory level 0, timer 0), which makes it use automatic memory only. Saving a non-zero level would then make it use manual memory with a timer of zero, meaning it resets to the saved level immediately on each power-off.
TL;DR: If anyone wants the SP10 to always turn on at a manually-saved level, set the memory timer to zero. Otherwise, it won’t return to the saved level until it has been off for 10 minutes.
I dont know if this is needed, but maybe it will help someone.
Using Anduril 2 on My Wurkkos TS21. (Only Anduril 2 light I have atm)
In Advanced Mode
Set Manual Memory - With the light on the brightness you want to save, Click 10x
Turn Off Manual Memory - With the light ON, Click 10x holding the 10th (10H) and release when it “buzzes” (looks kind of like a low lumen “strobe”) Then click once more. The light should flicker to indicate success, and return to its last ON state.
Turn Off Manual Memory Timer / Hybrid Mode - With the light ON, Click 10x holding the 10th (10H) and release on the second “buzz”. Then do nothing until the light flickers and returns to its last on state.
Set Manual Memory Timer - With the light ON, Click 10x holding the 10th (10H) and release on the second “buzz”. At this time, each click of the button sets a timer for one minute.
(Clicking the button once would be a 1min timer. Clicking the button 10x will set a 10min timer.) After youre done clicking however many times you want, stop, the light will flicker and return to it last ON state.
I measured some light and currents at the lowest modes, the light ran on an Eneloop.
Lowest mode at the simple UI: 11mA, 0.13 lumen
Lowest firefly, measured by clicking at lockout: 4mA, 0.004 lumen
So that low mode is already not very efficient at 9 lm/W (at high modes this light should be about 60lm/W but I did not measure it), and that is because most current goes to running the driver chip and only some to the led. The firefly is lower even: 0.8 lm/W.
So as with all flashlights the lowest modes are inefficient because the driver chip current makes out so much of the total current. Btw, the parasitic driver current of Anduril lights is relatively low (only 2 or so mA) because some attention went into it by Toykeeper minimising it, many other lights are much worse.
What is interesting, is the runtime at these low modes on Eneloops, that should be 7 days for the low mode, and 20 days on firefly.
In theory, if the light would have no parasitic current and would run at 0.004 lumen firefly (you could arrange that by replacing the driver by a simple current-limiting resistor and using a 14500 li-ion cell that has no self-discharge at all 
), the battery would run for 2000 years before empty.
I did some measurements of the standby current today. On average it’s about 40-60 µA, depending on the battery voltage. It looks like the voltage is boosted for the ATtiny if the input is below ~3.7 V.
Everything was measured with a ~100 Ω shunt resistor.
Li-ion above 3.7 V: More or less flat line.
Li-ion 3.65 V:
Li-ion 3.55 V:
NiMH (different scale!):
Btw. I’ve noticed that I got a different 14500 cell with the SP10 Pro compared to the V3. The button of the new one is bigger and has slots from the folding while the old one has a smooth button.
Yeah, the firefly mode is nowhere near as efficient as, for example, the button LED on a Q8. Part of that is because it needs a boost converter to step up the voltage, and part is because it needs to have the MCU running to generate a PWM signal.
So the firefly mode only lasts a few weeks on the SP10 Pro. It doesn’t have the usual long runtime of Anduril’s aux LEDs or button LEDs, which typically last several years per charge.
Sounds excellent to me!
random clip lego,
FWAA clip… no light
needs a wire ring in the tailcap,
to make contact w the body tube
.
ring is a bit oversize but secure
Makes no sense… 46 in stock and sold out at the same time.
Might suspect that they’ve pulled them from sale so they can reflash the firmware with the latest correction mentioned here, or perhaps some other problem.
Could be they just sold out and never updated the “in stock” number.
I never got around to placing an order, but noticed the counter said “46 in stock” right from the very first day someone linked to it on this forum last week, and every day since.
the red version is sold out from sofirn website, is it coming back ?
I’ll bet within a month there’ll be totally debugged versions offered with a respectable selection of emitters.
I think I’ll just hold my fire for a bit.
I’ve got some numbers for you. Not sure if they make sense, but that’s what I’ve measured with my clamp meter. Would be great if someone can verify my results.
Current about 1s after turn on in turbo (relative brightness in percent).
| SP10 V3 | SP10 Pro
-------------+--------------+----------—--
Eneloop | 6.4 A (34%) | 7.4 A (34%)
Sofirn 14500 | 4.7 A (100%) | 3.0 A (78%)
Interesting that the Pro has lower current and output on Li-ion, but higher current and identical output with NiMH. This doesn’t feel right, but I’ve double checked all measurements. Both batteries were freshly charged.
The 14500 difference makes sense to me from a visual perspective. I returned both defective V3’s I had, so don’t have a direct comparison, but I remarked to myself the first time I fired up turbo outside that it seems like my Pro does not have the output the V3’s did.
What happens if you set the end of the channel 1 PWM values to 0? On some drivers, turbo output is higher when only the highest power channel is enabled. I’m not sure if the same thing happens with SP10 though.
The NiMh values are not at all what I would have expected to see…
Might not be much help, but I noticed a 219b in the V3 with fully charged 14500 seemed to make it look angry. Haven’t had time to follow up, but it seems to ‘roughly fit’ with your measurement of 4,7A (always thought 4A was the limit for a 219b).
Okay so my USBASP https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B06XYV162N has arrived and I’ve purchased some pogo pins to solder and hot glue into a usable tool to flashing my SP10 Pros. Anyone got a starter link for me please? I’m not sure which of the guides for other flashlights best relate to it and I specifically need to know what the 3 pins on the SP10 are so I can solder them to the right points on the USB adaptor. Then if there’s a guide to flashing from Windows that would be super appreciated.
I hate to break the news to you, but while that programmer is correct for the older MCUs like almost any Anduril or Narsil light to date, that is NOT what you need for the SP10 Pro.
You’ll want a USB to Serial TTL adapter like these (just one though). And you’ll need to merge the TX and RX pins using a Schottky Diode (preferred) or a ~4700 Ohm resistor as shown here
I feel like I’ve written about this a lot, I’m sorry if this is the first time you’re reading it.
As far as software goes, you’ll want to make sure you have Python installed with Pip (the python package installer). Pip is used to install the pymcuprog package which is what you’ll actually use to do the flashing.
Additional info here
Ahh thanks very much. I also have a couple SC31 pro that I’m looking to flash so I’ve been looking at guides for them mainly so that’s why I purchased the USBASP. I thought I’d start on the SP10 pro as the contact points are easier to access. I’ll buy the new adapter for the SP10 pro if I have to but I have PL2303HX USB to TTL RS232 COM UART Module Serial Cable Adapter for Arduino https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/263864494229 that I used once to mod an ISP locked modem router for WRT firmware. Would that be suitable?