2 try make up a copper pill - let me know how you get on please! 
Mine arrived today. It weighs less than the copper S2+, but more than the aluminum. It’s a decent host for $20. The LED and driver will both be replaced.
There’s no pill in an A6 G0OSE 
Anyone got an idea what this pill thread is? it measures 21.3mm (male) and 20.84mm (female) and is roughly 1.5mm pitch.
Bizarre size….
I tested the “3800 mAh” battery that came with it, with my Zanflare C4. Tested capacity: 2288 mAh.
There is a comment on the AE page that says it is brass…
Made mine a triple.
SST20 2700K
Convoy 17mm 5 AMP biscotti driver
Kiriba ru S2 triple spacer and kaidomain alu pill.
The whole stack up with optic is about 1mm longer than the stock pill+reflector+glass.
Also added Convoy clip
Nice job Nooner! 
Nice work indeed, I have a brass pill from kd on the way for the c12, I will have to remove a bit, but the thread is the same as the aluminium one, 22mm x 1mm
I chose brass coz I’m going to put a copper centre in it and it’ll be easier to solder.
I have a nichia on the way from crx i will use in it, but I must admit I’m tempted to try this. I could heave 2 head ‘innards’
I also replaced the red tail switch boot (I think the actual switch is ‘ok’ as it goes) but you could easily mod a regular switch into it if desired, even a light up one if you widen the boot hole.
Funny, I think the red actually looks better than the black……… despite initially disliking it!
Also, I am tempted to round out those optics into the bezel - what do you think? (so the whole circle shows) I don’t think it would weaken the cap too much? I don’t think I’ve seen it before?
:+1: 
Thanks everyone for the kind support.
Been enjoying carrying the light since the mods.
Nooner,have you thought about bypassing the steel springs for lower resistance?
Hey Whatsthepoint
Yes I did consider it. But the stock switch configuration doesn’t lend itself to an easy bypass. I have plenty of lights I’ve tried to squeeze every last lumen out of. Figured this light didn’t need to be one of them.
Bypasses are not just for added amps, they keep springs from melting. I've bypassed those type of springs. Even a 24 AWG will help big time. If you kept the stock driver with low amps, not so much an issue.
…hmm. Is 5 amps enough to do that?
Maybe I’ll give it a try. Would you bypass just the spring, or solder directly to the switch and maybe even brass button?
For those, I usually only bypass the spring. I try to eliminate the brass button but that's not always an option, depending. for this switch at a minimum you would have to solder the spring to the switch. But if you only want to save the spring, a simple internal bypass of the spring itself will do.
For high amps, these switches have a few issues. This is why e-switch lights with simple springs and no tail switch are so much better.
I already did a spring bypass, it’s fairly easy?
solder wire to bottom of switch, down through spring and directly into the brass end cap, I soldered it all in there.
I technically bypassed the entire spring I suppose lol, although it is soldered in too (to the switch anyway).
You could easily fit any switch in there, just needs a spacer around it/above it. The plastic housing would dremel out quite easily too, but I wouldn’t do that in case you ever need to return it to stock.
I did try to fit an omten, it’s slightly fatter and needed sanding down which was easy, but the lugs are bent too far out and snap if you try to put them in closer, even then it wasn’t a good enough fit, it just was a ball ache so I put the old one back, which to be fair doesn’t look that different anyway. I lost a couple of switches just trying.
25mm copper bar is incoming for some mods lol!
Mind blown
The holes are too far apart for the standard S2+ deep carry clip:
Also, the red switch cap (with brass!?) had to go. I had an extra black one from a BLF-A6, but I had to trim the inside with a knife.
Much better:
Is it really brass? What’s it look like inside?
It’s really brass. The threads are yellow, and if they were anodized the light would lock out when unscrewed, but it doesn’t. There are some inside pictures up-thread.