3 volt XHP50.2

Yes I like it… don’t want it to go directly to Poof!

. Copper press fit sink - Check!

. Copper base plate, brass screws, 18awg spring bypass’s - Check!

May it (5400k) Die a slow and agonizing Death! :rage: :+1:

Oh I like the way you think TomE! But that would be a Humane way to Kill, and for this (5400k) to die, Instant Death, way too good for this LED :smiling_imp:

It LIVES? :person_facepalming:

:open_mouth:

:rage:

:disappointed: WTF………… :cry:

What ? You don’t like yellow ? :partying_face:

Nope… maybe try a slice and dice…get rid of the yellow corona bung hole? Got’s to get me some new blades first…or just sell it….

We’re gonna need some current drain numbers mate!

Not from the solid copper spring pcb, the old spring board had a jumper you could solder a loop across or add a switch.

Pull the reflector (so easy with the Fat Head, just unscrew the entire head), de-solder the negative wire at the MCPCB, solder a loop between the driver lead and the MCPCB pad and get a current read at the emitter. :wink:

Great Idea :+1: But NO… I tempted fate twice this weekend and got burned, destroyed a MH20 and fried the driver in the C8F.

. But the good news is I had a Mtn. 22mm FETDD driver D4 UI V2 ( I don’t remember it ramping so fast) and I installed it in the C8F along with a brass battery tube spacer in the tail cap, no more dented 21700’s.

The Utorch C8F is now making over 9,000lms at turn on using a 30T 4.21v off the charger pulling just over 30amps. :sunglasses:

for 2.7 seconds then the thermal stepdown kicks in. :smiley: Lol

Just measured 14Amp in a BLF A6 and a fresh Samsung 30Q. Gets stupid hot in less than 20 seconds. Bright AF. Will have to wait for the L4P 8-12Amp driver to make this light usable!

Yea i put one in my BLF A6 its was kind of sad cause i have done so much with my stock BLF A6. Bought it from the group buy here and its been every where with me always been trusty and reliable it was my go to 18650 light now i have modded both of them one has a XPL2 and one the XHP50.2.
The original XPL and driver would have hundreds of hours on it by now

I put one of the 3V 50.2 in a Thorfire C8 with OP reflector and a FET driver.
The little C8 surprised me and holds its own pretty good against the much bigger Thorfire S70 with much bigger head and bigger emitter.

This is what the C8 beam now looks like compared to the Thorfire S 70 with the 70.2 I put in it , on the original driver.

At 100 yards from the gate………….

The C8…………

The S 70……

Damn that’s a bright C8 you got there !
Any idea of how much it draws ? Should be about 14A with a good cell :slight_smile:

Here is what I di (xpost from the FT03 thread) :
I sliced and diced a 3V XHP50.2 6000K and put it in my FT03…
14,2A at the tail, 140kCd and an unknown lot of photonsfrom the bright end (guesstimate 3000+ lumens ?)
It does heat quite fast for such as massive host, and the hotspot is bigger than stock.
The tint is warmer than the dome on LED of course, and the dicing get rid of the ugly green corona around the hotspot

From a LG HE4 I am getting 11.73 amps at start and 2981 lumens from the C8……… gonna go back in and see if I can get some better grounding with 18 awg wires and cleaning the contact points. I just feel it is capable of at least 12.5 amps and maybe 3200 plus lumens at least.

Do you have any equipment for lumens measuring ?
I’d love a lumens/Amps chart to get an estimation of my flashlights with this LED…

Yes my light box was checked with the Maukka light set and I am 3% UNDER the Maukka calibrated lights in my light box.
From a LG HE4 I am getting 11.73 amps at start and 2981 lumens from the C8

Okay thank you very much !
So any 12+ Amps will guarantee around 3000 lumens output… damn I love this LED :-p

Here is the chart from the Maukka lights on my light box when I tested his Calibrated lights in my box………

As long as your C8 is using the same reflector and lens because those effect the measured light output. A different host light or lens, etc… can change the results. I guess it’s more accurate to say 12A at the tail is about 3,000 (+–200 lumen).

True…….also wire size , ground connections , spring bypasses and various other factors will all equate into the final output as is known already.