I just received both of these drivers a few days ago from banggood. I had original thought that the driver layout was different from pics I had seen. A6 attiny13a board is on the left X6 attiny25 board on the right.
They are exactly the same board with 2 differences in components. The more expensive board (BLF X6) has the attiny25. The cheaper board (BLF A6) has the attiny13 but is also missing a resistor ( 471=470 ohms) at the red led wire (R3).
These boards will work with a attiny85 transplant. The legs on the 85 can be bent in and soldered or reflowed to either board.
So if your on the cheap, you can buy the BLF A6 board go to digikey or your preferred supplier, pick up some (805 or 603) 470 ohm smd resistor’s and the attiny85. Unsolder the 13a, solder the 85 on with the resistor in the R3 position and now you have a 17mm board that will run NarsilM.
Update: The resistor is not needed if running NarsilM firmware with a e-switch.
Maybe this will help, please don’t make fun of my mickey mouse pic.
Switch ground can go anywhere in blue. 471 bleed resistor should be removed if not using lighted tail cap.
Sounds like a good tip moderator007, but I’m unable to see your picture.
The R3 (470R) resistor is a bleeder only for use with lighted tailcap.
The issue is that A6 and X5/X6 use clicky switch and NarsilM needs e-switch. Is it possible to do that?
Yes, switch goes between Pin #2 on the attiny 85 and ground.
I guess the resistor is not needed then if going with a e-switch. Thanks for the info Unloco. :+1:
Can you see the pics now, I think I fixed it?
Just checking to see if the pics are visible to everyone?
Hey mate thanks for the tip.
I can see one pic of the two drivers side by side?
Thanks for letting me know. :+1:
Would be nice if someone could illustrate where to solder the wires for the e-switch. It’s pin # 2 and ground but it would be more helpful to see an example of a finished work.
Updated the first post with a Diagram.
I wanted a good spot to put the ground. Thanks to your detailed illustration, moderator007. I was able to flash the T85 successfully with Narsil for 2C1S set up. The tricky part is neatly soldering thick wires to the best possible places without messing anything up. Where do you solder the wires for the lighted e-switch, by the way? Is it even a good idea to use the SMD LEDs of a lighted e-switch?
I just finished modding a DQG tiny 4th with triple xpl V5 running this board and NarsilMQ8.
You don’t need thick wires to wire the switch up. The current is very low on the ground feedback to the MCU. I use the smallest silicone wire I have to wire the switch up. Silicone wire sheath doesn’t melt when soldered. I usually solder one switch wire directly to pin #2 on the attiny and the other to what ever ground location that doesn’t get in the way of anything else. I have used several different locations for the ground. Where ever is the easiest and out of the way.
The lighted e-switch I have never tried. I haven’t researched it or had a use for it yet with the smaller lights I have been modding lately.
The info is probably here on BLF somewhere.
Just managed to get a BLF X6 on Banggood. If the ATTiny is swapped from 25 to 85 what firmware can be used?