I just received both of these drivers a few days ago from banggood. I had original thought that the driver layout was different from pics I had seen. A6 attiny13a board is on the left X6 attiny25 board on the right.
They are exactly the same board with 2 differences in components. The more expensive board (BLF X6) has the attiny25. The cheaper board (BLF A6) has the attiny13 but is also missing a resistor ( 471=470 ohms) at the red led wire (R3).
These boards will work with a attiny85 transplant. The legs on the 85 can be bent in and soldered or reflowed to either board.
So if your on the cheap, you can buy the BLF A6 board go to digikey or your preferred supplier, pick up some (805 or 603) 470 ohm smd resistor’s and the attiny85. Unsolder the 13a, solder the 85 on with the resistor in the R3 position and now you have a 17mm board that will run NarsilM.
Update: The resistor is not needed if running NarsilM firmware with a e-switch.
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Maybe this will help, please don’t make fun of my mickey mouse pic.
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Switch ground can go anywhere in blue. 471 bleed resistor should be removed if not using lighted tail cap.
Yes, switch goes between Pin #2 on the attiny 85 and ground.
I guess the resistor is not needed then if going with a e-switch. Thanks for the info Unloco. :+1:
Would be nice if someone could illustrate where to solder the wires for the e-switch. It’s pin # 2 and ground but it would be more helpful to see an example of a finished work.
I wanted a good spot to put the ground. Thanks to your detailed illustration, moderator007. I was able to flash the T85 successfully with Narsil for 2C1S set up. The tricky part is neatly soldering thick wires to the best possible places without messing anything up. Where do you solder the wires for the lighted e-switch, by the way? Is it even a good idea to use the SMD LEDs of a lighted e-switch?
I just finished modding a DQG tiny 4th with triple xpl V5 running this board and NarsilMQ8.
You don’t need thick wires to wire the switch up. The current is very low on the ground feedback to the MCU. I use the smallest silicone wire I have to wire the switch up. Silicone wire sheath doesn’t melt when soldered. I usually solder one switch wire directly to pin #2 on the attiny and the other to what ever ground location that doesn’t get in the way of anything else. I have used several different locations for the ground. Where ever is the easiest and out of the way.
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The lighted e-switch I have never tried. I haven’t researched it or had a use for it yet with the smaller lights I have been modding lately.
The info is probably here on BLF somewhere.
HI, Long time since i’ve been to the forums.
I have astrolux S41 with this driver. Recently i have swapped leds in it and than installed some green LEDs in the tailcap switch.
Here is the problem i have now: after installing the LED in the switch, the driver remembers the last mode it was on and i cannot switch modes backwards with long press.
Is there a solution to that? Am i missing something? Can it be corrected?
Does your driver have the bleeder resistor? (You can see this in the first post, second picture.)
You need it with the tailcap LEDs to prevent the issue you’re explaining.
(I --think-- the tailcap LEDs allow enough current through the circuit to keep the time-out capacitor charged, which means it never thinks the switch has been left off long enough to reset to default mode or go backwards.)
yes, i installed 390 ohm resistor, that’s all i had on hand, misplaced my assortment somewhere during the move.
Should i go with higher or lower resistor value? Should i install higher value resistor at the LED in the tailcap to make them dimmer?
I don’t know.
My guesswork says that the bleeder resistor would need to drain charge out of the capacitor quicker than it fills up so that it registers empty, if that’s not happening you would need a lower bleed resistor value or a higher tailcap value.
If you like the brightness of your tailcap then you could try reducing the bleeder resistor value, but aside from a quicker time before the switch registers as ‘off’ i don’t know if there are any implications for too low a value, so either be conservative or try a higher tailcap resistor value as a test if it’s not too much effort.
Or maybe wait for someone who actually knows what they’re talking about to give you advice rather than me
Solved it, mixed up my resistors in the tailcap. I had installed 150 ohm instead of 390 ohm.
once replaced with the 390 ohm in the tail all is working good.
