The description of the cutter listing says its for a V4 3D
Yeah but what are they? are they a higher flux bin?
And cutter themselves seem a bit confused about them.
http://www.cutter.com.au/proddetail.php?prod=cut2752
They say Cutter-XPL353-W2-2B and on the same listing they say “Bin is V4 Flux 3D”
Seems quite some fuss about something that has a code there on the page, it is V4 bin, E3 group. That is an order code. They say it is 3D, that they would know from the Bin code only, which is not presented, but it is V4 for sure.
Yes it seems Dale got confused and me too by the order code sounding like a flux and tint bin cree could have used.
But it is not a new led only the good old XP-L V4 3D that just happen to have cutter order code of XPL353-W2-2B.
Well Cutter likes that edge where it can be confusing.
xref: Tue, 11/03/2015 - 09:39
In reply to a question about cells for these lights, RMM wrote:
(if you’re set for 300 comments per page, this: MTN Electronics: LEDs - Batteries - Lights - Chargers - Hosts - Drivers - Components - 1-Stop-US Source link will work)
And the Al X5 as standalone orders. Pretty Please too!
I’m just a kibitzer from the peanut gallery here, but I think you need to read the whole thread.
It will help understand the answer the answer, which has evolved over time to be:
“Which part of ‘No’ did I not explain clearly enough?”
(Which is basically what I had to learn to understand; I asked the same questions a few months ago ….)
Pray leave the nice people alone as they continue to shower goodness upon us. Do not bother them.
Yeah, yeah, I know, I should take my own advice.
I will consider that.
Confused, yes, disappointed, no. 
In the light, the color is much like a 3D but not quite. Not as rosy it seems. At any rate, I’m glad things went like they did because it’s a nice output that is actually quite similar to the Nichia 219C at 5000K. So I’m liking em, whatever they are. I actually ordered em when I was sick and am just now getting over that, still coughing some and still don’t have my voice back, funny that I got product from Australia in the same time frame as a flu bug or whatever.
I just went by the descriptor, was looking for the specific tint bin and wanted the highest power. (crud, I got these specifically for a friends set-up, 3 lights with one a triple, and he was wanting 3D’s REPLACED!) I must still be sicker than I thought. In thinking about this I realized I used the “W3 2B” emitters in that friends lights, this quad has XP-L V4 3A emitters. Staying confused. lol (as an aside, I just test 2 of my friends lights and they are definitely not 3D, they are an off white on the lower levels with a hint of yellow, so they must be the 3A’s and I must have used the “W3 2B” in this quad. The quad does indeed have more of the 3D appearance.)
Baseline… F/8 at ISO400, 1/8 second exposure for these 3 shots in our game room.
Cu X5 at 1490 lumens
Al X5 at 2767 lumens (quad)
The siblings
The quad, unsheathed
The quad in the sun
The Cu X5 in the sun
I missed the measurement on the copper pill for the Al X5, by about 3mm. Hence the gap you can see, I had to cut another piece of copper as a riser and solder it to the bottom of the pill. Braindead from a week and a half of running a fever I suppose. Coming off that, I worked on 9 lights that have been piling up on me, hence the emitter confusion. Sorry about that.
Well - thanks for the advise. and sorry if I was being a nuisance. i am new here, and i have been going through quite a bit of this thread - just awesome flashlights and can’t get enough! but it is also almost 2000 posts. it would have been helpful if you could point to the post that explains this. the last thing i want to do is bother the nice people 
Let me say that I have no official standing whatsoever, and when it boils down to it my suggestions are the same as y’alls as are many of my wants and wishes. Ok?
Now, that said, it seems to me that a group buy of this magnitude is a sensitive and tedious beast. Trying to communicate to people on the far side of the world that speak a different language and get cooperation between all parties is quite the clusterfunk, on so many levels. (like what I did there? ) So during the communication period, it’s essential to stay with the linear program to avoid unnecessary confusion. See? Like ordering food in a high end restaurant then changing your order after the chef is midway through the preparation, you’re likely to have some cursing and swearing and maybe even knives thrown about.
So the first order of priority is to get the parameters initiated, get the manufacturer in line with what we want, ensure the development is all according to plan, and after production shows they fully understand what is wanted, then and only then can new orders (demands? Wishes? Wants?) be communicated. I am pretty sure that the popularity of these lights, especially the X5, will see it go into production on it’s own. Manker would be really silly to not chase that train! It only stands to reason that with the popularity of the bigger brother, the X6, a smaller version of the same light should be a huge hit.
Let’s watch em get this going, then see where it leads. I’m hoping we all get what we want and they make a huge name for themselves with this gorgeous little light. :bigsmile:
They already have the T01 as a sounding board to be able to offer a version of this light that can accept AA Alkaline or NiMH cells while also being able to run on a Li-ion, so the possibility there of making a 1st World Order small light is really strong, should they see the opportunity to utilize what they have in hand. One thing at a time though, one thing at a time.
I came up with this years ago for myself. My doctor looked confused, thought it over, and adopted the idea.
Lately I heard an opera singer interviewed by Terry Gross on National Public Radio who does the same thing.
To reduce — almost avoid — the prolonged coughing that comes from having congestion and ‘post-nasal drip’
Sleep on pillows face down — so your nose stays downhill from your head — put a towel under and let it drip, drip, drip all night.
Saline nasal rinse can help keep that drip going.
Why? Because it works. Damn well.
Standing up, the drip goes into the throat and we clear it out.
As soon as we lie down, the drip starts to go into the lungs.
And it builds up there and dries, and — we cough.
And cough, and cough, and cough.
A cough can become self-sustaining, to the point doctors prescribe narcotics to suppress it. I’ve cracked ribs coughing, twice, in 6 decades, before figuring this out.
Avoid letting the gunk drip into your lungs while you’re asleep, let your damn nose run all night, wash the towel — and you’ll cough way less during and, most important, after the flu-like/cold goes away.
This digression has been brought to you by “I had no idea who to tell this to but I thought someone might find it useful”
thanks DB Custom. i totally get it now. yeah have worked in restaurants, and in big projects:) scope creep can really mess things up. i see that in an undertaking of this complexity, even the order configuration could throw things off.
Nice quad.
wow - thats awesome. thanks for the tangent. i think this kinda helps with snoring also…
TK, I really like option 9. I prefer better low mode spacing.
I don’t think I’d use 8-9 levels but the new #9 seems ideal.
The rest seems fine.
I’m a modder at heart but will not be modding these. Now about that driver…
The X5, like it’s big brother, sheds heat really nicely.
I just ran the quad for 5 minutes, it stepped down at 45 seconds and even on the step down level continued to build heat. (remember, this is an A6 style driver, not the new one) I was holding it, rotating it in my hand, and it got hot enough that I was seriously wanting to put it down! At 5 minutes even the cell was hot when removed and read 3.60V on my gauge. It only took a couple of minutes off and it was only barely warm, now, 3-4 minutes later, it’s room temp again. So the fins work really well and the big copper pill under the quads get the heat out to these fins. The 14500 cell fares remarkably well considering the power being run.
Obviously, even if modding with a simple spring bypass on the “stock” X5, it’ll handle the single emitter quite well. And the now stock ATTiny25 MCU on the FET+1 driver has the thermal step down, so if it does get too hot it’ll handle it accordingly… the caveat here is that the light will adjust between warm nights and cold nights and only do what it needs to do… AND you have control over the thermal step down process, it’s adjustable to suit your needs.
Not sure how it can get any better than that. Rest assured though, TK will come up with improvements!
Thanks, this is just awesome. Don’t know if they were in the original or not but I love these first 6 features. Perfect!
Gotcha added to the list. When lights are ready to ship, we will send a PM to everyone with purchasing/payment instructions…and welcome to BLF!
Chuck,
Thanks for the info. I will probably pick up some of the Efest Purple 14500’s for this light for normal use.
I was thinking I would like to use this light to keep on the night stand next to the bed since it has the lighted tail to act as a night light and would be easy to find in the dark — also, the copper would look good sitting out on my dresser. However, the problem is, without protected cells, and with the constant tail light drain, I would be in danger of over-discharging my battery since I know that I am not disciplined enough to check it every week. I may look into using, what did ToyKeeper call it, “muggle mode”, or something like that, that limits the high end of the light, and then use a protected cell that is rated at 3A. Then I might be able to keep this as my bedside light and not have to worry about it so much if I forget to charge the light one week.
Shadowfax