I wonder if they might possibly have switched the C1 10uF Capacitor and the OTC 1uF Capacitor? I’m not seeing anything out of the ordinary on your driver, everything looks soldered and in the proper places, but those 2 caps look virtually identical anyway…
Ahh, Styx.
lol, ya feeling me there Frank?
Deep inside we’re all the same…… 
Aardvark, I think you may need a new OTC. It’s possible OTC and C1 got switched like Dale suggested, but that seems more unlikely in an automated factory environment
If you have the ability to solder small parts I’d be happy to send you a new cap
I no longer have any vinyl, and Styx was pre-CD days for me. Don’t make me go youtube all those memories. I did see them in concert in my youth. They were great back in the day, huh? I actually got into Pieces of Eight first, then went back to Grand Illusion, etc. Wow, half a lifetime has gone fast.
Lol, thank you TK. You are a light in a sometimes darkened room bathroom.
I mostly copied selfbuilt’s pages about making a lightbox. However, I put the flashlight hole farther from the sensor, and I cut out several stencils for various light sizes to help avoid light loss.
I didn’t have as much data to use for calibration though… so I did the initial calibration with a ZL SC52 and then tweaked it based on other people’s measurements as compared to my own, for lights where there was overlap.
Since then I’ve discovered that my measurements are almost identical to the tube designs like Dale uses, except that my device maxes out at about 3000 lumens. Anyway, it has been very useful. Would be nice to make a proper sphere sometime, but I’m not sure it’s worth the extra space it’d take because the milk carton seems good enough for my purposes.
http://www.flashlightreviews.com/features/lightbox_output.htm
http://www.flashlightreviews.ca/method.htm#Lightbox
http://www.flashlightreviews.ca/Lightbox.htm
That was my first thought too. Or perhaps the OTC (or OTC pin on the MCU) has a hidden short under it.
These things can often be cleared up by touching a soldering iron to several spots on the driver just long enough to re-melt them. It doesn’t take long; perhaps a second per connection with a fine-point iron.
Hey, Bugsy36!
In case you are still logging suggestions for a BLF triple, I'll toss my hat in with the high-CRI folks. I would like to see a BLF triple that focused on high CRI, moderately high output, good heat management, and long runtimes. I do not need a gazillion lumens. I need neutral tint and 90+ CRI (Ra).
We have the example of the BLF-348. It showed what a good beam looks like. Now we need a BLF triple to get the same quality light in a higher-output flashlight.
Too often, I see triples built on tube lights like the Convoy S2+. Pardon me for noticing, but one glance shows you that the three emitters don't fit! The bezel covers a significant part of each lens. Building on the X6 means you get bezel that is wide enough so this does not happen.
Thanks for taking my input. I'll be watching with interest to see how this develops.
A quick tail cap question.
A 1/4 turn turns off the tail cap light but also locks out the light.
I don’t want the tail cap on while the light is clipped into my pocket during EDC.
I also don’t want to have to tighten the tail cap each time I want to switch the light on.
Is my only solution to do surgery on the tail cap to permanently disable the tail cap light?
The aluminum lights can be locked out by turning the tail cap. The Cu/SS ones cannot be locked out.
I just tested my aluminum X6. The tail-cap locator LED shuts off when it is locked out.
The simplest way to disable the locator LED is to replace the switch assembly. Otherwise you can mod the existing switch by performing "surgery." I believe the method is described in this thread, but I do not have a link.
Got my Cu/SS set today, much quicker than I expected, as I did not upgrade the shipping.
Very, very, nice :)
Matching numbers, no flaws (apart from very minor shipping damage to a corner of the box), no missing accessories (both clips came separately in the spares bag).
Firmware feels polished, no issues going through modes, etc.
As a personal preference, I'll be tweaking the tail resistor & Moonlight, both for lower output, & of course bypassing the springs :)
Thanks to those who put their time & effort into making this happen :beer:
Removing the bleeder alone will only cause you headaches. The tail resistor or led is what needs to go. (or you could probably just use a razor to cut a trace in the tail)
Got my SS/Cu set today, and like others, some damage to the box in two of the corners, and a chip of the Cu light, but overall, good set.
And I got my lucky number 18/400. Almost better then 118.
I quickly decided that the SS/Cu set will only be for showing, have two Al sets on their ways, so they will be used. The SS/Cu set is to nice to be used, and there is also the weight of the X6. It’s heavy.
Wow, first person on the backup-list got his/her lights. Or do you have more than one alias (nom de guerre)?
Just swap out the switch cover to black. Blocks the light while carrying, back to clear when you want to see it. The other solutions are more permanent.
I believe his original spot in the list was given back to myhken.
a new tail switch is only $2 from mountain. i ordered one when i ordered my 14500. dont know if i will use it or not. but for 2 bucks i will test it out.
edit to add link: 17mm Forward Clicky Switch with Spring and PCB
For $11 and how far that box has to travel....that box is in great shape. ;)
No, another member that opted out circumvented the process and sent him his code, IIRC.
Yes, I’m not complaining, just inform that the box had two slightly damaged corners, but no big deal.
And you are correct, I got the code from somebody that opted out, with s/n box. Still waiting on the standby list to see if I get a new s/n box or just the lights. Then I will decide really fast if I’m taking the spot or give it to somebody else on the list.