I understand that Cu is soft, and they have handled it some wrong at the factory most likely (since banggood most likely just have them in their boxes). But I have seen lots of threads here showing their damage to boxes and/or lights, so I did the same. As I stated it has nothing to do with the Team.
To the person saying that I can contact Neal…why? I can live with this issues, and I’m happy for the lights and the box, and will display them in my house.
The Al versions I have ordered it’s for using.
Lol people are now scared and bullied not to post issues with the lights. I swear I’ve seen this on another light related forum, just can’t remember the name…
Centering it is pretty easy. Just unscrew the bezel and reflector, slightly unscrew the small screws holding the MCPCB in place, and tug the MCPCB in the direction you think will make it centered. Centering it just makes the corona around the hotspot more even. It’s not noticeable unless you’re shining it at a pure white wall.
It’s not like that at all. I think the problem with myhken is that he’s been a serial complainer on this thread, and others.
I know in the vape industry most companies use large egg cartons like these, to keep parts separated and not scratched or damaged. But accidents still happen with anything
Daniel, that’s just Bugsy cracking his whip… probably somewhat miffed at being circumvented by a rule breaker. I’m not saying this went good or bad either way, it’s not my call, but Kronological and Ken had a disagreement that ended with Ken out of the loop. Someone circumvented the rules, gave a code to Ken that wasn’t assigned to him. This kind of conduct can possibly result in both parties not being allowed to participate in Kronological’s or Bugsy36’s group buys in the future, and they do a lot of group buys. Their call, no one else’s. I personally feel like there were some misunderstandings and I’m prone to let bygone’s be bygones, but as I’ve said, this isn’t my group buy. The easiest way to handle this kind of thing is to simply do no more group buys. Pretty sure that’s not what we want here. All things considered, with well over 1200 lights spoken for, I think it has gone pretty dang well. A few hiccups can be expected in any kind of undertaking at this magnitude. Let’s just learn and move on…
Nobody is prevented or prohibited from displaying dinged up lights or boxes. Banggood needs to know this happened, and on what scale, so I say keep em coming. This will help the handlers to see that more care is needed in the future if copper is used in flashlights.
Ken, the mcpcb with the emitter on it is screwed down to the emitter shelf. It might be that on your example they screwed it down while it was slightly off center. Centering it can be done by merely loosening the screws slightly and using a small flat blade screwdriver to wedge between the host and mcpcb and leverage it over slightly. Pay attention to which direction it is off center, hold the head in one position and remove the bezel and reflector without moving the head, then you can nudge the mcpcb that wee bit towards center and tighten the screws back down. They don’t have to be “tight” just snug will do. A well centered emitter will give a prettier beam profile, asymmetrical with a neat hot spot.
Can you imagine assembly of all these? Dang! Glad it wasn’t me! hahahahaha
What? I did complain when I was told I was to be banned from this GB and all future GBs if I did not accept that I had “stirred up the pot” and “make lots of issues” in the A6 thread, that everybody can see is false.
I’m not a negative type in thees GBs, I love the fact that I finally can buy some quality lights for a reasonable amount, and my avatar shows that I’m proud of be a part of GBs here on BLF. But I don’t like to be bullied with.
Asking legitimate question, and then almost be banned, and loose my spot, is not the way I want it. But I must be allowed to ask questions.
And just see what happened when I showed my box and lights…then I was accused for do so there will never be any Cu light or GB ever. There are losts of others that have shown their damages, without being accused for destroying any future project.
Just because I had some issues with Gearbest, and some bad buys on Ebay before I become a member, do not mean that everything I write is negative and I’m just out after destroying GBs and projects, and get money back from all and everybody.
For the record, let’s be accurate… you didn’t “loose” your spot you gave it up. You specifically stated that if you could not get the serial number you wanted, then “I’m out.” You gave it up, and then you realized what you’d done and wanted back in. That’s when all the drama started.
As such, and because you only have the lights in your possession because someone else cheated for you, you should not even be considering still being on the wait list. You should bow out of that, gracefully, and let others who are waiting move up in line on the wait list. You got what you wanted, rules be damned, so now do the right thing. Step aside.
I hear ya on the dents and dings. Mine have them as well. Including my samples. It’s just the way it is.
Even my Texas Poker in my Avatar, a fully custom light that I designed and contracted out to be made… is not perfect. I paid $800 for this tiny 10440 size light. And y’all whine.
If things gets better, and I’m not banned from all future GBs I can give up my spot on the Standby list. I do not want to argue and be an outcast just because of the misunderstanding in this thread.
Can we make peace kronological, bugsy36 and the rest of the team?
Do what you want with my spot on the standby list, but I still may want a second set. Others here has ordered 4-5 sets, so why should I not be allowed 2? But it’s your call.
All I want is to still be able to get into future GBs, so I don’t have to buy UltraFire flashlights again…
I’m sure the number of satisfied owners vs the dings&scratches folks is huge. No one is saying that is Kronos’ team fault, but they should not be scared to post a picture of a scratch on a light/box. Like you said, they need to know what’s wrong to prevent it in the future.
P.S. I know Ken is a serial complainer, I’ve complained about his complaining a few times. He is a member here but if he broke the rules all bets are off.
The important stuff is getting rolled on by drama... I'm not an electrician but if you guys could figure out what is going on with the c1 cap not draining (or whatever is actually happening) when the light runs for extended periods or warms up from a few straight turbo runs that would be great!
Back when Comfy was creating these FET drivers out of Qlite or Nanjg drivers, we used a massive 07N02 MOSFET. All sorts of things were done to make things fit, upside down, bent legs, carved plastic bodies. We even went through a “tombstone” faze where a 200ohm resistor was stood under the supply leg between the MCU and MOSFET.
I’ve been building these according to what Comfychair and then Mattaus and even later Richard advised. Richard adapted a different layout than Wight and now has his own design boards. There were several people working on these at one time, most all have left the forum now for various reasons. And here we are, producing lights off their labors and breaking ground.
Revisions and some new looks are of course always welcome. If you can build it, TK can write a code for it. We’ll go from there. And I’ll hack it together and see how much power I can make it flow. :bigsmile:
Pin 3 should be available. It’s currently passing through the board to a star on the battery side, this was originally designed to allow batt-side configuration of memory on/off by soldering the star. Then TK figured out how to do that in the code so that star is useless. Freeing up pin 3 for your extra resistor .
Could I get a rundown of what the scale of this project is? How much would it cost to get a set like this usually if it wasn’t a group buy? How is the price so affordable? What about this light has never been done before?
All in all: What’s the “big deal” about this SS set?
They look absolutely phenomenal in the pictures. As a BLF and flashlight noob, that’s really all I know about this set; that they look great. I’m really hoping I can get a set.
But I’m not really familiar with the history and work that went into this light. It looks like it must have been a huge undertaking. I’d love to know. With 4,000 posts, I’m not really to keen on going through all of them one by one.
Sorry if I come out as demanding or a bit mean. That’s not my intent at all. If anything, I’m amazed anf INCREDIBLY impressed. I’m genuinely curious about it all, since I wasn’t here for the beginning of this.
