We’ve learned that many friends like to mod flashlight for better use experience. As a classic member of Brinyte, B158 becomes one of the favourite lights for modders. How did you mod it and what’s it like eventually? Post here to show your work 
I don’t have a B158 yet, but if I did, I would like to pimp it up but good!
My birfday’s coming up, so… 
Not a modder, but I have Brinyte B158B with some mods:
1. Change of forward clicky with omten switch - it is a pain to program a driver with forward clicky. Would be very helpful if you offer such a switch and rubber cap.
2. Bypassed springs
3. Pill with SSt40 and 9A Led4Power driver
4. Pill with dedomed XP-G2 and BLF DD driver. If I measured correctly, this is my smallest light with 260k candela
If you care you might offer bigger head, will be interesting. Also the washer, that covers the MCPCB better be black I think.
I do love my B158’s. My usual mods include:
- Replace the cool-white LED with a neutral tint (around 4500K) Cree XP-L HI
- Replace the floating 2.8 amp driver board with a MtnE FET+1 driver that is soldered directly to the pressure-fit ring.
- Bypass the spring in the tail cap. This spring is really long, which adds too much electrical resistance.
- When I have the time, I like to add a PD68-style illuminated tailcap.
:THUMBS-UP: :THUMBS-UP: How does the final work look like? We are expecting :))
Good job, gchart! The sapphire tail switch is beautiful. Like it :LOVE:
Ireplaced the driver with a FET triple channel TA driver and replaced the led with a dedomed XP-G2 S4 2B on DTP copper MCPCB. Painted the led surrounding area with blackboard paint to reduce artifacts and rings in beam when zoomed in.
My measurements:
Current: 4,65A
Output: 693 lumens
Intensity: 325000 cd
Throw: 1140m
This is the beam reflected from the river surface:
Mine has no driver anymore, direct drive for short bursts (and I monitor my battery from time to time).
Xp-L HD dedomed, blackened centering ring.
It pierces the night quite well now !
Left : B158, Right : C8 FET driver with XP-L HI
I have some Luminus SST-20 en route. I might try dedoming/slicing one of those and then seeing what it’ll do. Should be intense (ok, pun intended)
Mine is a similiar set up to you all. Dedomed XPG2 S3 1A with a BLF A6 driver and spring bypass and i used a sharpie to darken the centering ring. I might spray paint the centering ring.
I like it but i think i prefer the dedomed XML2 it throws almost as good. Plus my Cometa modded the same appears to throw further?.
Not much variety with this one.
Mine is almost the same as every other one here.
First gen B158
Cree XP-G2 S4 2B dedomed
BLF A6 Fet +1 driver
Reverse clicky switch
Slightly over 300 000 cd.
Slight variation on the same theme: dedomed XP-G2 S4 3D with FET-converted Nanjg AK47-1C driver. 320kcd.
Hey mate what did you use to paint the LED?
I sanded the plastic a bit and then simply used a sharpie. For metal versions (which are in the Uniquefire aspherics) I have used flat black engine paint.
I used the same method on mine and doesn’t looks like that but i didn’t sand it lol. Ill try sanding it see if it helps.
Thanks!
Have been considering a B158 for a while now. How many Cd is the stock XPL-HI version? Asking because I can’t mod and would love a single 18650 light sabre to pierce through bushes and buildings and light up something/someone far away.
Stock is 717 lumens and 113 kcd
Ahh, literally 1/3 of what y’all have modded to. Oh well…
Thanks, ZozzV6!
Everything in following post is based on my experience so I speak in my name and IMHO…
So you are Brinyte representative?
The question should be What Brinyte did to improve B158 light?
The only thing you improved on that light is removing of chunky and totally unnecessary hunk from B158B, and that did not passed without drama. At first you refused such suggestions from respective members here. But finally the guy from your sister company “Odepro” which understood English language very well and follows BLF posts decided to sell B158 without hunchbacks at much higher prices than usual. Maybe you are that guy?
Brinyte tends to listen only one communist orientated boss which punishes their workers for some no big deal “mistakes” (don’t ask me how I know that). Workers are OK but that boss is pita for company.
B158 is just an average light and needs some major improvements like:
- reverse clicky omten switch (switch redesign could lower size and upgrade light performance)
- double and thicker oring to neck section or any exposed section (it is not that waterproof as you saying no matter for some online reviews)
- pill perfectly adopted to 17mm drivers and mcpcb’s which will allow easier driver/mcpcb swapp
- Smaller or larger heads? Where are they?
But what is incredible and no other OEM flashlight manufacturer except Brinyte figured out is that cheap acrylic lenses can be better and more consistent (almost 100% of consistency at around 95% of light transmittance) than any commercial available ones. So plus for you here :THUMBS-UP:
So I am just curious how Copyfire (Uniquefire) did not figured that out and made their own version of UF158 light. So far they they not only manage to copy certain lights but they also improved them (seriously).
Dear Brinyte if you don’t want to work on improving your light and make it more user friendly it is just matter of time until some of your rival companies reveal all mentioned above and start manufacturing their own better versions.
Similar destiny happened to Dereelight (anyone remember them?), Tiablo, Crelant, Wolf Eyes. Uniquefire grew on their ideas… They just copy-pasted, lowered the prices and made even better products then them. They have boss who is listening, researching and improving things… All that could not be said for your boss dear Brinyte.
I too am glad to have seen the B158B version come out with the “lugs” of the B158. Regarding improvements, I agree with part of what LI said. Specifically, I’d like to see:
- Stop using thermal adhesive to affix the LEDs in place. I hate scraping and cleaning that stuff up.
- It would be nice if the LED shelf could properly hold a 20mm MCPCB, even better if had tapped holes for screws
- The floating driver and press-fit ring is a pain in the butt. Just make the opening the right size for the driver. Solder the driver directly to the pill or something
- Changing out the switch for a reverse clicky probably isn’t a bad idea, though not a deal breaker
- Modify the spring setup in the tailcap - it’s way too long