My wife just brought another package from the post office and it was my second light. It works, put the tail cap from the working light on the non working light and it works. I put the non working tail cap on the working light and it doesn’t work.
As long as there is not a driver issue it is an easy fix. Banggood would most certainly take care of that problem but in the meantime and since we know it is the tailcap - possibly the solder on the switch to the pcb?? Don't know..just throwing suggestions.
Aside from the unfortunate issue with the switch..what do you think of it?
We are waiting for more people to get their lights but in the next day or so there will be a thread posted for a video review contest. The video can be of anything that shows the A6 in operation. There will be four prizes (courtesy of Banggood)
Fourth Prize: A TK UI T-shirt (yes it is being worked on :))
Speaking of the shirt....someone came up with something to put on the back of a UI shirt but I do not remember what it was. Can anybody help, please?
Also for that have received the BLF A6, keep in mind that it is the exact same driver and UI going in Kronos' group buy. Just imagine what those lights are going to be able to do :)
It’s possible you could detect the problem in the tailcap by looking at the parts.
Testing the parts is the next step.
Can you pass current through the bare switch when off? On?
Assemble tailcap. Do you get continuity between metal of cap and spring when clicking switch on?
Put tailcap to light. Do you have continuity between metal of cap and metal of light body.
Something has to show up if you perform the process of elimination.
Mr. DMM is your friend.
Best of luck with your troubleshooting.
other way is if you had a battery, wire and a small led or buzzer to make a circuit to see if you works by pushing the switch.
if you were local i could have had a look at it for you for free.
Something really simple: Sometimes, with threads anodized, the very end of the body tube needs make a good electrical connection with the brass ring that retains the switch. First make sure the brass ring is snugged up to the switch nice and tight. Then make sure the very end of the body tube is shiny bare metal with no spots of anodizing. Maybe run a knife over it to make sure. Screw the tailcap tight and loose a few times while working the switch.
Sometimes, Bingo, it just decides to start working. Hope you get Bingo!
PS: My light is stuck in the black hole of customs in LA. At least you have a light to play with!
If I recall correctly, the BLF EE X6 had some units with tailcap switch issues, and most of them were easily fixed by taking the tailcap apart then putting it back together again (make sure it’s tight).
I got two 3D units today and both appear to work normally.
Compared to the sample units, the differences I see are:
Production units have extras:
gift box (in a bag, no tape)
BLF logo
gunmetal grey clip (preinstalled) (and the body has a groove for the clip)
lanyard
extra boot cover
two extra O-rings
The reflector seems a little smoother. Light orange peel, perhaps, instead of regular orange peel. This should make the light a little throwier. It’s a pretty minor difference though.
The tint is better than the sample units (which I think used whatever spares they had on hand).
The driver is yellow instead of blue.
The copper MCPCB has a very light blue finish instead of red, and is branded with “BLF” and “ALEXWELLS”.
The lens has one thick black O-ring instead of one or two thin GitD green ones.
The emitter leads are slightly thinner, I think… But I replaced all the leads on the samples with longer wires for easier flashing… so I don’t recall what size the original leads were.
The driver and tail springs are slightly wider at the tip, which might make bypass mods a little easier.
I don’t have lumen readings yet; am waiting for batteries to charge. But I can at least say that moon clocks in at a nice 0.40 to 0.55 lumens, making this one of a only a few “budget” lights to ever have a real moon mode. And the interface appears to work as intended, though I haven’t carefully measured the timings yet or done any temperature tests.
I want to put some DC-Fix on the lens to give it the beam type I prefer, but I suppose I’ll at least finish testing first.
Received my A6 , and my Nitecore EC11 today from Banggood! Anyone else ever receive multiple lights on the same day? Hoo-yah!
This light is fine! Really fine. The tint on mine (5A) is gorgeous! Creamy/floody. I was concerned it might be rosy, relieved to find it wasn’t. Took the clip off, not a clip person here. Light comes on in moonlight, and 1/2 press for 6 more levels of brightness. MIne always comes on in moonlight, so memory has not been set, yet. Next was to attempt the UI, so went to the link on page 1 of the thread. Either a short, medium, or long tap …. seemed troublesome in my mind but works well. Tried the hidden modes next. Turbo-fine. Tactical strobe-fine. Biking flasher is interesting, pretty low lumens, could it be higher? On the next one, the battery check/beacon mode, those blinks come awfully fast! So the beacon mode is proportional to the battery level?
I stopped here as I like the lights’ configuration as it is. No really, I’m leaving the configging to the Pros
Can’t wait to get the ‘shorty’ host for this light if that works out! This UI is amazing! I wish the X6 had it! I don’t know how many lumens it is on Turbo but appears to be a tad brighter than my 1000 lumen lights.
What a terrific offering! Seriously, many, many, thanks to ALL involved in this project!
(I’m overdosing playing with this light, my Nitecore EC 11, and my new Olight M3XS UT)