I also do have a little color mismatch on my 5A, but meh, didn’t notice it until I looked for it. Probably would have seen it sometime but it doesn’t bother me. I kinda like it better than the default black the rest of the light has.
Hope my 3D arrives this week. Will be a different batch so hope it will be at least the same quality as the one I have.
Despite the minor flaws it has, it really is one lovely little light. So bright and great UI. Had to look at the manual for the mode switching but it was very easy to understand and switch.
Thumbs up for everything involved in this!
And, remember, without error there is no improvement.
People learned a lot from the X6 groupbuy. A lot of that information is used in this groupbuy. People learn again from this groupbuy.
Don’t let the negative comments discourage this great team from organizing a new groupbuy in the future! Complaints are often more voiced than praise
Nice pics, makes the 4C look greenish, I haven’t compared mine to 4C yet. If you stare at the 5A on a white wall a bit on higher levels you can also see a yellower core and a rosy ring around it without having to compare with another light, enjoying the cree rainbow.
maybe trying this setup for group buys - samples - initial limited run - then full production - to soften the hit if things are not 100 % in production from the word go but then again no guarantee that unforseen things will not happen between production runs…
I’m not sure if this was resolved earlier or not. I think you figured out how to enter config mode (don’t click, just do a quick tap or half-press). After it enters config mode, it does this:
pause
blink
<— click here to toggle 4 or 7 modes
blink
pause
blink
<— click here to toggle mode memory
blink
pause
… and then it exits back to a regular mode.
Amps are very hard to measure without a clamp meter and a short thick wire. If you used a normal DMM, it is probably just showing you the wrong value. Lumens are a more useful measure than amps, if you have the ability to measure lumens.
Two things to note:
Part of the first batch used a different copper DTP MCPCB, before upgrading to the Noctigon. This was confirmed visually by Otanacious, who received one of each. Both have been confirmed as DTP though, and both perform well. The other boards may have extra flux left on them though.
Apparently Noctigon doesn’t want other companies using their brand, so Manker was required to cover up the Noctigon logo with something else.
In any case, the difference is only aesthetic, not functional.
Yup, I’ve got a long list right next to this window.
Ouch.
I’ve been watching .hack//SIGN lately, and there’s a very similar theme running through much of the show. A group formed inside an MMORPG to try to encourage people to play nicely and have fun instead of constantly raiding each other. Eventually, some of the group took on a police mentality and wanted more power to enforce rules, while others stuck to the original idea and insisted that they are all regular players so enforcement is way beyond what they could or should be doing. The idea was to bring about an enjoyable culture through courtesy and respect, not through heavy-handed rules. And I think that’s a worthwhile ideal which BLF embodies pretty well.
I had a similar experience during testing… except the glowing part was my finger, and the hissing part was me. Second-degree burn, and it took a couple months to fully heal.
It sounds like someone in the factory must have been playing with it, changing settings, and left it in a blinky mode. Perhaps that means QC is doing some actual testing.
I want to add my experience with the A6. My one light in 3D is an awesome light, even better considering the price. Anodizing of all pieces matches as well as any light I have, no chips or scratches, beam and tint are great, the UI seems to work exactly as specified but I haven’t tried to enable mode memory or switch to four-mode option yet. The only thing I don’t like is the clip but not a big deal for me. Pocket clips seem to be an area that is almost impossible to do in a way that pleases everyone. I didn’t order mine right away so maybe the QC has improved from the very first lights manufactured. I hope Manker is getting it figured out because when done right this is a very nice light. Because of the high number of issues, I’m slightly nervous to order the bare version but will probably go for it. Thanks to everyone who made this happen!
I noticed the threaded ends on tail cap end of the tube are over half a millimeter longer. I reversed the tube and screwed the head on the longer threaded end that the tail cap was screwed on to. That did not solve the problem.
I think some people think you made these yourself Bugsy. Possibly that Dale machined the bodies while setting up the new lathe. Maybe,just maybe that Toykeeper assembled the drivers while sleepwalking one night
No honestly, Manker has accepted responsibility and will rectify the main issues. It’s all a learning curve, and a learning curve with a new manufacturer for Blf so I don’t see why Bugsy is getting the blame.
We all entered this willingly and no one has to join in on any GB.
So long as Manker sort the issues out and get their act together for the next GB, I’m OK with that.
Keep it family friendly.
I do feel sorry for Banggood though being stuck in the middle of all this and I hope this hasn’t put him off working with us.
BTW, can we get a measurement of what the battery tube length is meant to be as it has been mentioned that some may be too short? It will help some narrow down the problem, whether it’s the switch or the tube.
I don’t have a meter, but using the phone sensor app the two mode for both group is giving me the same lux reading.
I also can’t seen to remove the ring that hold the driver in place. I was able to loosen it about half a turn before it getting stuck. I already broke my tweezers trying to unscrew the ring out. Any idea on a better tool to get the driver out?
If anything it’ll hopefully put Banggood off working with Manker…but who are we kidding here, the cheapest bid will always be chosen first for a mass produced cheap item
The phone sensor is a great idea! More people should do that.
If the driver retaining ring stops after half a turn, don’t force it. Instead, move it back to the loose part of its range, then lift it gently with tweezers while turning it. It may be stuck between two different sets of threads, and needs to be lifted to reach the next set.
I’m getting 4.97A on a new 30Q cell (4.17v, hour rested). 12awg short leads, inexpensive dmm.
3D tint looks a little rosey to me. Pretty nice actually.
Same silly off-center battery tube /shrug. The rest seems pretty decent. Something like $15 for the A6 host and $20 worth of internals? Pretty good deal.
I love the step back/reversing feature btw. I’m already kinda looking down on my other flashlights for not having it.
For me after the 15 clicks turns the light off the next blink is the signal to immediately turn the light off, and with no hesitation, to change modes. If it blinks again then you’re in the memory mode stage of the software.
Finally received mine. I'm very impressed with the light. A few minor issues (not complaining): bezel is overly tightened to the point that I cannot loosen it (may try strap wrenches later on if I actually need to remove it); some chips on the clip; and cold solder joints on the driver and switch springs (which I touched up during spring bypasses, anyway).
I was concerned about possible QC issues after checking this thread occasionally, but so far, it seems to perform as intended. I do worry about possible cold solder joints elsewhere, but I'll have to deal with it if/when any issues occur.
The driver is amazing and really elevates the light above others. The optional 5A tint is just the proverbial cherry on top for me. Thanks to all involved.
Ouch.
