Nice!! :+1: What tint and Bin did you go with?
I’m sure it would require a complete redesign of the head to get space for the switch. So not likely. Besides, the bigger reflector on the L6 outperforms the L2 by a good margin.
Should be OK with the 26350’s, my 26350’s will only pull 8amps ( maybe 9amps) max off the charger. They go poof with 26650’s and VTC5A’s in my instances.
I know, just the L2 is a little more compact.
People have poofed them on a pair of 18350.
I’ve heard the same thing. But I’m hoping the resistance or inability of the 26350’s to shell out a ton of amps to help a little.
Ended up going with the XHP50.2 J4 5700K, and the RMM 17mm FET with zener mod, no LVP and guppydrv Rev.2 (got the firmware on almost all of my lights now). :+1:
I started a thread, because I didn’t think many people would see it on here. I’m definitely wanting max heat dispersion from the MCPCB to the host, so I was wondering which would be better; thermal adhesive, or thermal compound? LINK to thread
Compound would be my choice with a nice flat and lapped mating surface(s) screwed down tight. You can run some 24awg leads it will choke it down a bit! You can always re-flow the old XHP50 and shave it for more throw and never worry about over current. Give her hell Yourrid! :+1:
I like compound because it makes centering the LED a lot easier / less of a time crunch. I’m thinking 18awg just to get max output :smiling_imp: Both springs will be bypassed as well. Now I’m thinking I should have ordered 2 drivers in case my setup fries the first one. 
Not likely to fry the driver, just the emitter. Probably shouldn’t use the 18 ga leads and may not even need to bypass the springs. Since the 50.2 is known to have potential issue with FET drivers, you need to cut back on it a bit to make it a solid performer. It might work ok at first, but it’d sure suck to have it out and using it only to get the POOF! and darkness…
For me, how snugly the reflector is pushed against the mcpcb when tightening down the bezel helps determine whether to use paste or adhesive. If in doubt, glue it down. If you want max, use Arctic Silver Adhesive. It works better but is more permanent, meaning more difficult to change later.
Is it more of a heat issue or current that causes it to blow? I understand they go hand in hand, but I use the modes wisely… So if it’s a heat issue, I may be ok. Current, on the other hand, is a different issue which would require thinner gauge wire.
I really appreciate the input on both topics DB. I feel like you and a handful of others have written the book on flashlight modding… So if you say adhesive is king, so mote it be. :+1:
It’s a current issue, the FET will give too much to the single 50.2 from 2 cells which supply way over the Vf of the emitter, overhead being so high, it’ll commit suicide. I’ve got one in a Jaxman M2 on a pair of 14500 cells and it makes a bit over 3000 lumens, more cell than that and it may run wild and die.
King nothing. 
I just know that I like to glue it down if there’s any doubt about heat being critical. A slightly thick thermal paste under a slightly loose reflector can be the last thing you want to deal with, whereas if you build it up solid from the beginning you’ll be less likely to have an issue with it. Just know that any mistake will be more difficult to fix, modding it again later when new emitters come out will be tough. Not impossible, just much more difficult. I can heat up an mcpcb with my soldering iron and pop the Arctic Alumina Thermal Adhesive loose, but if it’s glued down with Arctic Silver Thermal Adhesive that won’t work, you have to punch it up from underneath or destroy the mcpcb getting it out. Arctic Silver can take a LOT more heat…
I screwed mine down
Me too. I get screws that are as long as possible to get a lot of threads.
Just finished the mod on my L2.
XHP50.2 J4 on Noctigon
RMM FET DD with 22awg leads
2 23650’s
Both springs bypassed
And…… it didn’t blow! (yet) Granted the batteries were fully charged about 2 weeks ago and rested for a while so I doubt they were right at 4.2v each. I really like how it turned out. It’s pretty much a little brother to the L6 now. Gets warm quick on high, but it has a great beam profile. It is a little dim in the center of the beam, but not that bad.
I really want to get rid of this forward clicky though. Has anyone found a reverse clicky that swaps out?
Get creative and install an Omten. 
Some of you will probably recall an ongoing discussion about clear anodizing and the debate over why Convoy’s clear anodizing has a silvery, almost metallic look. It’s been explained that the silver look was there because bead blasting is used on the aluminum prior to anodizing. I’ve also mentioned that we were experimenting with bypassing the bead-blasting to give the finished product a more “raw” look that showcases the excellent machining and maintains more of a bare aluminum look while providing the benefits of anodizing.
The first sample is in. :sunglasses:
Simon and I are eager to hear your opinion. I know what mine is. :heart_eyes:
I’ll do a side-by-side photo comparison of the new look vs. the original clear when I have the new sample in hand. In the mean time let me know what you think.
Look awesome!
Much better then the original spray paint look.
WOW! Thats awesome. One S2 and one C8 please.
Awww that’s a cute little guy!! Can I get mine RAW :heart_eyes:
Like his 2 Bigger Brothers!
:+1:
Brother no stock light will ever top your polished beauties. :+1:
Chet would be proud.
I can see two of your polished customs in side-saddle holsters on the Wrecking Crew. :disguised_face: :+1: 