Thank you both for the info- I think I stopped reading about a page before post #587, haha but that’s about the way things go for me! Around 100,000kcd sounds pretty good for a stock light at that price : ) Couple more little changes and it will be a beast! I’ll be curious to see what the newest edition puts out whenever they become available and might have to sneak another one past the wife … Edit I see the new ones ARE available now, snatching one of these up as well! Thx
I’m a little confused because Simon has it listed as a 3A driver in the description, but the specs I’m finding for the LD25 and LD29 are 2.6A and 2.8A respectively.
Based on Cree’s PCT tool, XPL-HI V2 @ 2.8A and 85 degrees Celsius would get you about 875 Lm.
Eyeballing it, it looks to me like the XM-L2 die is a bit larger than the XPL-HI so I think lumen for lumen the XPL still throws a bit better than a de-domed XM-L2.
I think the new stock version should do more than 100kcd, I wouldn’t be surprised if it was more than 130kcd.
I think a good reference point is the SR52UT, they have about the same head diameter.
One thing you can be sure of, the XP-L HI and the XM-L2 ARE the same die. Same throw. The XP-L is on the smaller substrate of the XP-G2 to allow cramming more into street lighting, side by side. Hence, the dome is flat on the sides, it’s too big to fit on the smaller die substrate.
So, the only real way to get an XM-L2 to fit under carclo optics is to go with the XP-L HI emitter, it’s domeless design allows it to fit under the triple optics designed for a smaller emitter. That’s really the only difference.
And for what it’s worth. A de-domed XM-L2 will have further throw than an HI emitter, solely because the HI still has a thin layer of silicone across the die as provided by the Cree Powers-that-be.
When in doubt, look up the spec sheets on the emitters. You’ll find the die size listed is the same. (another FWIW, tint remains better on an HI, de-doming can lead to off tints that can be un-desirable, less so with hot de-doming but still noticeable)
Any chance you could talk to Simon about his minimum orders for his store? It makes it pretty confusing to do an order when you want a couple different items. I know he will make adjustments, but I’m a fan of making things simple.
Maybe instead he could implement a 10 $ or 20 $ minimum order.
I dunno, just a thought. Sorry for hijacking your thread.
I installed an Omten 1288 on a 17mm switch board in my new L2 to replace the forward clicky switch. I used a washer between the switch and switch boot, and discarded the plastic piece which was too tall for the reverse clicky. The tailcap is threaded enough to allow the retaining ring to fit tightly in this configuration.
The LD25 is indeed sold many places as a max. 2.6A driver but the current is tunable for each mode if you know how. Simon posted a video on how to adjust the current. Each mode is adjustable with an output range of 0mA to 3100mA. So that explains the current difference for that one. I’m wondering if the LD29 can be/has been adjusted in similar fashion for the L2. I have asked Simon to confirm the details on the new driver since even on his site he has a listing for the LD29 and lists it at 2.8A. I’ll post the info back here when I have his response. Either it too is adjustable or the L2 listing should say 2.8A. Stay tuned…
I watched it the other day and didn’t follow, just watched it again and it makes sense now.
Simon pointed to two point’s on the board, one of them is the set point, solder a short wire to it and hold it against the outer part of the board/retaining ring or the shell which is the battery negative. This will increase the current, you can do this for all of the modes.
I’m not really qualified to give a good answer but yeah that sounds about right though I think it would be a tricky “shot-in-the-dark” type maneuver if you aren’t setup to monitor the current reading real time, as he shows in the video. I believe you hold that wire steady on the retaining ring to increase the current. If you wanted to decrease the current you use quick taps on the retaining ring. In theory that should be able to take it right down to a nice moon mode if you wanted to.
Yes, if you do continous contact the current will increase, and if you short contacts (touch quickly) the current will decreases.
I tuned some LD25 driver, and I love this driver, but the L2 have a different driver, with different solder points.
Can anyone tell, which solder points need to use for the tuning?
I’ve ordered the built light, it was only £6 more and I thought that even if I replaced the emitter and driver I can use the stock part’s in something else to make another good light with a nice emitter and driver, it’s not as if they’re rubbish like some of the part’s you get in other light’s.
I just received my host from Banggood, and wanted to chime in and say that the quality of this light is incredible for the price! I was worried from a few of the reports that there were some quality control issues with these, but everything looks fine on mine!
What are these things for? I’ve never seen such a thing on a flashlight…