Thanks, I’ve been using unprotected more lately, I’m pretty anal on checking/charging, but I still prefer protected cells in my lights that don’t have LVP, just in case I accidentally leave it on, which I’ve done before.
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Yes, very true at around 4000mAh and half the price of the Efest purple 5200mAh.
I looked at these because of the low price, in the reviews they were reported well under their rated capacity, one reviewer stated they tested at about 4000mAh, which again, isn’t bad for their price. I may have to get some,
In some of the photos just posted here the L6 looks HUGE, a monster indeed! One of the reasons I’m getting it. At 72mm head dia. it will be the largest head single reflector flashlight I own, another reason is it will be my first XHP70.
I really want to see what this big reflector with a XHP70 LED will do.
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I think if it wasn’t for having it powered by 266650’s it could be more compact with a “soup can” design with 3 or 4 18650.
At 77.24mm the diagonal cross section of my Black Shadow Terminator’s head array is larger than the head of the L6 and the terminator seems like a pretty compact size light, it measures 63.4mm side to side across the head array.
Good question, I’d also like to know, from the photos they don’t appear to have the “raised” flat top to work in series like the Efest purple and some of the others do. I guess you could use a small round magnet instead of soldering.
I ordered the Mission 12 from Mountain Electronics and it was back ordered for some time. It was is longer being shown to order from Mountain Electronics.
With the release of the Convoy L6 and Manker U21 the flashlights for the 26650 battery are now a different decision.
Has that ever happened? Genuinely curious since I’m using a magnet also. It’s a pretty strong magnet that sticks both cells together very well. Don’t see how it could shift. The inside of the battery tube is anodized also.
After you remove the (driver) retaining ring , remove the bezel and reflector , and insert a very small screwdriver in one of the holes for the emitter wires , and push GENTLY . Be very careful , so you don’t damage the driver .
Also wait some time if someone has a better idea .
I don’t know if it happened already but since it is possible one day it will. By dropping the light for example. I also wouldn’t rely on the anodization. Better press-fit the magnet in a delrin disc of the same diameter of the batteries. Then it is 100% safe. I think it is no fun when your flashlight suddenly turns into a grenade or a rocket. :confounded:
Some of my most used hand tools. My L6 driver came out easy with a little tug on the spring. The driver has a notch at the edge, I think, is made for a tool like below - top blue one, left end. Though the tip actually broke off a little, it's still great for prying out drivers, even ones that have some light glue. The top bent needle nose I use a lot - great for holding down LED wires for soldering, great for bending 7135 pins for stacking, etc. The Rosin flux pen, recommended by Richard, works well. I went thru a couple Kester pens and I'd say this is as good so far. The green needlenose has slightly sharpened ends - great for most small hole retaining rings. I got a larger pair for the larger rings, other pairs for bigger holes.
Here's a pic of the L6 with some comparable size lights. You should be able to make out the names, accept the no-name in the middle:
I think the pic represents the sizes well, though the pic quality could be better. The 2X is a little smaller head, by about 7mm, the K40 is very close, while the 7G10 is a bit bigger. The Roche LS01 was my first XHP70 mod, but sure gets hot almost instantly.
I took the switch bezel off and trying to get the switch out to have a little more room to do a resistor mod. How do you get the switch out? I can get it to lift up but it’s still attached to the driver, it’s seems to sitting on a shelf and can’t drop down. I could unsolder it from the driver but that may cause damage.
