Just an update for hands free carry from the above…
I had a few instances where I removed gravity from the equation from the front end of the light and had the over the neck lanyard (military sling) disconnect itself from the dropper loop tied to the LED end of the flashlight. My solution so far is a key ring connected to the dropper loop made of leader material. The leader is relatively fine and the key ring is a “bridge” between the dropper loop and the military sling. So far no further problems. No problems at all at the rear end. Maybe I’ll add a key ring there just to make sure I continue to have none; they’re inexpensive.
My tritium vials came in today and (Duhhh! What a moron! [kicking myself!] ) I forgot to order the UV set adhesive for them (Norland 61). So that will be a set back. They do look good in the dark though. I have months until I actually need the phosphor light to mark the button location, so I have time. I just wanted to be done with it. Now it gets strung out longer. The folks I ordered from now tell me that they can’t ship to me when I order the glue. What’s up with that? Oh well! I just need to find another supplier. I’m open to suggestions for the norland 61 UV set adhesive.
After my picking up an X3 a bit ago I thought long and hard about an L2…but just put in an order for my new Convoy L6 XHP70 N4-3A from FastTech instead. $55. They’re claiming shipping in 3 days, delivery in 8 days. Worked for me.
BTW: I don’t think I’ve ever seen a thread this long before. Anywhere. Kinda epic. Certainly says a lot for how seriously members take their hobby. As a total newbie it’s good to have such good company.
The l6 is a great light one of my favorites. I use a custom dedomed xml2 u4 c8 to search for raccoons coming to steal the cat and rabbit food at night and once I see the yellow eyeballs reflecting back I use the l6 to light up the area and run them off I want to get a l2 eventually hopefully soon but it has to be modded. A light of that size only being left to 1000 lumens is a sin
A month ago we moved to another house, and there wasn’t any light in the kitchen. So for a few days before I make some lamp my L6 worked as kitchen lighting. I removed one milk box from a 12 litre pack middle and put the L6 in to light the whole kitchen on high mode with ceiling bounce After 30-40 minutes it was warm but not hot.
I can see it now, heavy speaker wire running from a wall switch with a black rubber clicky mounted in it to a 12V converter in the overhead light fixture running a pair of L6 head’s with the battery tube removed. Bump switch for 7 levels of kitchen lighting, mood dependent.
Ha! Love the mental picture of a clicky switch in the wall and flashlights overhead.
I’m actually going to be running some 12V for LED strips in an ongoing remodeling project soon. Strips will be attached to overhead beams for ceiling-bounce indirect lighting, but I hadn’t really thought about it like permanently-mounted flashlights!
I know it seems like I’m asking a variation on the same question… but I do get asked about different batteries from time to time. It seems like both protected batteries I was recommended are either out or no longer carried.
Is there a way to list known maximum lengths of cells that do work? Maybe on the OP… or keep a running list of protected cells that work on the first page? I don’t run protected cells in this light. And all the batteries being used get lost in the 1700 posts.
I think basically any un-protected cells will work and honestly I do not see a reason to use protected cells in any light that doesn’t have internal changing (and even if it did, why would you use it over an external charger?).
The chances of getting an unblanced cell problem in a single discharge with even reasonably matched cells is basically nill. As soon as you recharge them any unbalance issues disappear.
I don’t even own any protected cells anymore to be honest, I just plain don’t see the point in flashlights where the cells are “balance charged” each time.
Balance issues are a problem with battery packs where the cells are never taken out of series.
Oh I’m with you on that. I just like recommending protected cells in multi cell lights, because I often get flack if I don’t- even if the light has low voltage protection. I found those recommendations a few pages back, so I just passed those on.
Not an internal mod’, rather an external mod’. Frankly I’m happy with the light as it is as far as brightness and runtime, but it needed modification for my use.
Today the Norland 61optical adhesive arrived and it just took moments to put the vials in place and glue them Thanks to the S2+ UV light. Glued multiple times to reinforce the glass vials. I bought 2 thinking that I might destroy one. They are significantly more rugged than I expected so after gluing the first one in place decided to use the second one to make the lit area bigger. In use, come the short days of winter and cold temp’s requiring gloves, just find the glow and slide the finger down.
The leader material and ring was my other mod’ to free both hands; it allows the use of an inexpensive over the neck sling carry. (see post #1796 in this thread- it wasn’t my idea)
The rig hangs the light with the glow and intensity button up. At this time for use w/o gloves, the vials aren’t required.
The vials glow was enhanced with UV. Without the UV and in the dark the vials are plenty bright enough, but not as bright as seen here.
The dropper tied out of 50# test leader material can be seen as well as the keyring that is the bridge between the dropper and the sling. If I would lift the light the dropper would sometimes slip out of the sling hardware. Now it stays clipped in.
Wellll…… if you check the back pages of the thread you’ll see that it took a few detours here and there.
