I like that idea thanks. Have a few old boards in my house that I can play with until I get it right.
Where do I buy resistor without getting thousands of them? I just need a dozen in the 50-200 range for current increase, the packs sold on banggood come in at least 500pcs…
Are these the same size as the ones used to build fet drivers or larger?
You want the buy a big set, they are only a few bucks on ebay (maybe banggood as well) but buying less will cost you about the same price since most of the cost is shipping and handling.
Not to mention it is very easy to drop them and good luck finding them!
For the $4, I would just buy a kit with a bunch of them.
Of fasttech sells some R100 for .86 cents. It will put out a bit more power but I have had no issues and actually plan on going higher after seeing it handle this so well.
Still odd to realise that a part that costs less than 1 cent can make such a difference in a light…
Yeah, you see the same thing with cars all the time. A $10 part can easily free up 25-50hp+.
Heck now days a “free” (assuming you have a programmer) tune can easily give you 50+hp in turbo cars without another change.
Not to mention some $10 chrome plated plastic parts and trimming, around the gear lever, dashboard and mirrors can bump the price with $2000. “Premium edition.”
How long would the L6 run in turbo mode with the R140 added? I might as well give it a try just for fun as I ordered a silver and a black L6.
Is this the right one from aliexpress --> R140
The smd size is 1206
Thanks! ordered those.
I’ll first try using 2 in series and if it handles well i’ll just use one instead
There is a store on Aliexpress that sells the R120. It’s 50pcs for $3.51.
I don’t have an account with Fastech, but I do with Aliexpress.
Here is an R150 for those a little more conservative. It’s 100 pcs for $1.69.
Not sure how you would use them in series but I would just start with the R100 myself. It is a blast that way and still has a good runtime before getting hot.
^ +1
No point in going series on that resistor, just stack one and run with it. The emitter and the light body can take take much more, it’s just about establishing a balance between heat and run time.
I have my L6 pulling right at 12A and making 7400 lumens. I won’t say it get’s too hot too fast but it will warm up good on a hot evening. 
[Ok, it’ll get hot, but I happen to LIKE hot!]
I thought the xhp70 peaked around 9 amp and then the heat would start dropping the lumens.
I was thinking about soldering them in a ^ shape on top of the existing resistors but after reading Dale is pushing his 12A I think a single 0.1Ohm will do just fine!
If I remember correctly, when I put an R140 on mine originally it was doing some 6.43A. It ran very nicely without overheating. So an R100 would be a great compromise solution for a bit more output and a small amount more heat, most likely in the 7A range. I would really recommend staying in this area as heat does become an issue above this and of course run time takes a big hit the higher you go.
I don’t very often pay much attention to long run times, usually lean much heavier towards maximum output.
Just measured 7amps , using 2 Liitokalas @ 4.13V .
Edit : I have R100 installed
How noticable is the increase in brightness? Slightly brighter or overwhelming?
Slightly brighter i should say . Even a 30% difference in output is hard to see some times , but it is there .
Mine is making around 4.3-4.5k lumens now .
Brightness & Throw is what makes L6 superb for me .
You should see a noticeable jump again when you put fresh charged cells at 4.20-4.21V in the light. It’ll matter, it’s not direct drive so it might shouldn’t matter, but I found it to make a difference in the L6. Current draw will probably wind up around 7.2 ish or maybe 7.3 on freshly charged cells. Guesstimating, but it’d be interesting to see what you find.
Cells are charging , should be ready in some minutes .