DB, I am simply trying to limit the number of variables rather than throwing everything in at once for someone who doesn’t even understand series vs parallel or even watts=current*volts. I presented a VASTLY over simplified view of things in such a way similar to if you opened up a physics book in high school rather than if you opened up an advanced circuit design from grad school.
Does the L6 side switch have an off (momentary) mode, or does the tail switch control on/off?
I understand Freefly, I was trying to get kb1428 to understand. I think what we have here is the country mouse vs the city mouse. For close in work turbo mode in the dark is way too bright and chores get done in the dark by the light of the flashlight and lots of them are up close. Many (most) times I have the light on low. The light being already on, the tail switch has been used and is of no more use. What remains when required for distance is med’, high, and turbo with a light that’s already switched on.
If I was la dee da’ing around using it for things at distance, then yes, the tail switch and turbo memory, or even high, would work. But try using turbo on an L6 for things that are within arms reach and require one to see. Seriously, try it. You’ll instantly see (or not see) the problem.
It’s very rare that I want my lights to ever come on full blast as they’re of no use to me there 99% of the time. In fact they’d be a negative. City mouse vs country mouse. Where I live it’s pitch dark or moonlit at best and low or medium is plenty of light most times as I don’t need excess light and it might just upset the animals that are bedded down. I know it’s difficult for many folks who live surrounded by light to understand that. If my light came on in high or turbo mode it would also just destroy my night vision. Hence my desire to be able to easily find the mode switch when it’s required. My light stays subdued until actually required to be a blaster. So if turned off it comes back on in low or medium at the very highest output.
But as you understand, an easily found switch, by whatever method, is a detriment to no one and a plus to folks who need it.
+1
Yep, only the tail switch controls on/off. The side switch simply allows you to cycle through the modes and access to the strobe feature. Tail switch is forward clicky, with momentary function via half-press. So, seeing as the light has mode-memory, you can leave it on whatever output level you wish, and you will have it “at the ready” with a half-press of the tail switch for momentary, or full-press for constant on. 
I should add, his explanations for the advanced are awesome and I am certainly learning from it.
What about suburban mouse? 
Seriously, I hear you. It’s just that your previous post about dispatching predators or dodging skunks sounded like you had an issue with the immediacy with which you could access higher output levels in such instances. If scenarios like that exist where you may need instant access to high or max output, just leave it in either mode and you will always have that output level at the ready with a tail-cap press. Then for all other times (when you are not in any hurry to illuminate stuff), you can simply turn the light on with the business end covered, while cycling to low mode before uncovering/using. I’ve done this previously, and simply put the bezel against my shirt or pant leg while cycling to the lower modes.
While an illuminated and/or more tactile switch would certainly be welcome, sometimes you just have to adapt and overcome, lol… :+1:
Obviously a very poor uneducated choice and purchase you have made buying the L6? You seem to have special needs with a easier accessible side switch? You should have bought the S70 did you know it has what you need, a lighted side switch, much smarter on your part, since you live in the deep dark wilderness of Central Maine? Maybe you can sell the L6 and make another better educated purchase for something better suited for your special needs? Or not?
Bit the bullet and bought an L6. I thoroughly enjoy the light, but I can’t just leave well enough alone. Gonna have to mod this puppy like I did my S70. May even have a shootout between the two and get some good beam comparison shots. Really liking the NW tint.
Yup, maybe a poor choice, but I think not. ’Cause anyone who has been following this thread knows that I’m just waiting for the rest of the solution to arrive and it could be here tomorrow. Then the switch will always be right where I want it to be. But yes, I really didn’t need the L6, I wanted it. I think I’ll keep it. BTW, same with the Q8. I don’t need it I just want it. Same with a Mega M6 if I decide to get that. I don’t need it but I might want it just for kicks. I really don’t need more than a C8 if the truth be told, and I really just need one battery per light. Lots of things I don’t need but have just because I desired them. I actually like the way Convoy builds their lights. With a few tweaks, even if they’re from the owner, they’re close to perfect. Even though I like them, I discuss what can happen to make them perfect. Hopefully the folks in charge are listening. Someday my wife might need to use the L6 and she wears gloves in the cold, so others will also. If they make the changes I’d buy another for her and I still might if my simple mods work. I don’t see why they won’t. Yup, I appear to be a tiny flashlightaholic. I’d apologize, but no, I won’t, ’cause I think I’m in good company.
Freefly, Right now I just hold the light up over head and out of eyesight to cycle through what I don’t want to see and retain my night vision. Pretty much as you suggested. Yup adapting. I’m still learning how best to use it and your input is worthwhile. Most times I go out doors with it on medium and reduce it as eye adaptation allows. Even on low it can be bright for close up work. I’m still evaluating the light for what I need it for. But so far, all in all, I like it and can live with it. No light is perfect, or that I’ve found so far.
Skunks are actually pretty easy to see with their white stripes, exactly as the stripes are intended to be, even on low output or just in moonlight with dark adapted eyes. But sometimes I need bright light to find out what the dogs got into and to call them off, or yes, to shoot vermin. Some things I shoot on sight to prevent the dogs from getting into them and before they come out. Autumn is the worst time of the year for that (animals putting on fat for the winter) and I don’t go out without a firearm at night at that time. IMO the L6 is actually too big for shooting, at least it is for me for the actual shooting and I won’t even try it. I prefer a light/laser combo mounted right on the gun. It’s so much simpler. That light comes on full blast, it’s not L6 brightness, but it doesn’t need to be since it’s just for last second identification and laser placement. But my fav’ when lots of skunks were coming around, they don’t this year, was the combo of IR light (Surefire Millenium 5mw), NV, and a suppressor with subsonic ammo. Not even the skunks knew what was hitting them or where it was coming from. They would just continue eating, from what I could see, and “fall to sleep” without spraying. Hollywood quiet and no light for the naked eye. The bullet hitting the target sounded like a ruler hitting a pillow and was the loudest sound. I particularly like that combo for when the neighbors tell me that “things” are in their trees at zero dark thirty and ask me to take care of it if I’m up. I don’t wake them but they see the vermin on the lawn in the morning. The one night I put them in a dark cart that I have, but left the cart there under the trees. My neighbors wife got up in the middle of the night and turned on their outside light, saw the dark cart, and got her broom and crappy flashlight to chase away what she thought was a black bear. She still hears about that from time to time… Broom and light for a bear, indeed! :) She wondered why it didn’t take off when she went outside and made noise. I couldn’t make that up if I tried to. :) BTW, I tried to upgrade their lights, but they’re happy with crappy “grandpappy” flashlights.
City or suburban mice vs country mice. Yeah, I lived in suburbia at one time. Suburbia = city to me now even though I know that it isn’t really. Still lots of light around and one can’t see most stars or the Milky Way. BTDT and got out ASAP many decades ago when we both had good jobs and promising careers; we just chucked all of it and got outta Dodge. Just had a gent and his GF build and move in from Chattanooga. Their original intent was to spend most of the year here and go back. Now they can’t wait to get out entirely. He’s going to go back to get some work done, then come up here permanently years ahead of schedule, she’ll come up as it’s possible before retiring. I have yet to proselytize LED lights to him, but he’s primed since he’s on solar (PV) power and will have no flood lights around his place. At least I don’t see evidence of any boxes for flood lights. I suspect he’ll also get lights that he needs and then gets lights that he desires.
Anyway, here I am running off at the keyboard and this thread is about the L6. Moderators, if it’s too off topic, just go ahead and delete it.
I got my 26350-s so I changed the L6’s tube to L2 single cell tube to try it out as an L6 mini. 
I’m not going to use it that way just do this for fun 
Thanks Dale, this was the simple answer for me and exactly what I thought. I just wanted someone to confirm it to be sure.
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Here’s a quote by The Miller from another thread that sums it up for me pretty well:
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Can you also give the simple answer to confirm about discharge current of series vs parallel? From what I understand 2 batteries can amount to double the available discharge current:
Example: a pair of Samsung 30Q (15A Max Continuous Discharge Current each) in series would be like having “one 30A battery”? (Max Continuous Discharge Current)
Is this true for series or parallel or both?
In your 30Q example BeamO in series you get double voltage but 15A max current but in parallel you get simple one cell voltage and double=30A max current
Compromise indeed, because you lose water resistance and have a kind of pointy thing up front.
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That’s exactly what I was thinking, just a small hole in a fin, but would probably need some of the adjacent fins “clearance notched” to provide room for the attachment hardware. Which could also help with locating the side switch even with nothing attached.
Thanks for the answer, so with 2 cells in parallel the maximum discharge rating AND the mAh rating are both doubled. win-win
This parallel/series battery discussion just made me think of a light from way back that I always liked but never got, the Small Sun ZY-T08.
I thought it was a great design having 2 batteries in a smaller package with longer run-time because of the parallel battery setup.
I ordered some 26350 and a L2 just to be able to do the swap… and see 3500+ lumens out of a short L6. Glad to know it will actually work. Thanks for the pict.
Hahaha this looks awesome!
Almost like that little Kronos X5 and its Astrolux counterpart that put out such huge amount pf light for the size.
It was a very tight fit. I wont use it a lot because it can do high pressure to the driver. When I put them in the tube the battery end is out from the tube about 5mm. If I wanted to use my light this way always I would replace the driver and tailcap springs to a much smaller one or a brass button on the driver side.
Yeah, I got definitely got diarrhea of the keyboard with that post. But once written decided to just leave it.