I have yet to find a configuration where a set of parallel cells shows double current capability in a flashlight.
I have a Ti X6 quad 219C that runs 21.1A from a single LG HE-2 cell for some 4500 lumens. I have an SP-03 with multiple cells in parallel that makes 4600 lumens. I just don’t see the multiple parallel cells doubling current. We still have forward voltage to contend with, even with parallel multiple emitters. So it would seem to be a moot point.
Multiple cells in parallel do show some significant gains, but not a doubling in any regard. Not that I’ve seen. Might need to build some more lights…
I would like to see a 2x26350 tube for the L6 (that’s a perfect fit, unlike the L2), just to make it more portable when you need it. More people interested?
I tend to favor the smaller lights, the L2 is exceptional in it’s proportion and capability for me.
While I would love this same proportion in the L6, run time would be atrocious! Sure, there’s lower modes, but there’s also smaller lights with a 3000mAh 30Q. What’s the capacity on those 26350’s? 1000mAh?
Using parallel does not double the current but the two batteries share the current what being pushed out so they don’t need to work so hard. I mean if you have double batteries in parallel in a light that draws 20A then eaích battery need to handle 10A. You can get it from one but easier from two. I know you know these things well Dale. I don’t wrote it for you
The double 26350 tube is a good idea and in block style knurling
I would have sworn I remembered M4D M4X doing a group buy deal on those 26350’s but I can’t find reference in his thread or spread sheet. Ugh.
I was going to order some direct but the shipping was outrageous and I backed out.
I’d like to try em, I have a tube stretcher so fitting them is no biggie.
Also would like to run a stubby single 26350 configuration in some other style lights, or maybe even in the L2!
Thanks giorgoskok, now I have to get at least 8 of em… really like the little Jaxman X1 so now it needs an XHP-35 with an LD-2 driver and 4 of these half cells in the 2 cell tube.
Might have to make an adapted tube for 4 of these to fit the MaxToch Shooter 2X that already has an XHP-35, that’d be cool, hmmmm… might need more than 8 of these… should I be saying thanks or curse you! lol
Edit: (if my wife see’s what you just started it’ll be curses! 10 cells and 4 XHP-35’s, hmmmmm I got curious, what would a triple XHP-35 look like? )
Buying direct from Simon at his Convoy store on AliExpress is the suggested method as this helps him the most and helping him helps us in the long run.
The reflectors aren’t ready yet and some checking is being done as to manufacturing processes. The results Simon has seen to date he is not 100% happy with, he’s a perfectionist and wants the best possible product. So, it is not known when the smooth finish reflector will be available.
With the XHP-70 in place, the orange peel reflector is better suited as it does a very nice job of blending the cross pattern out of the beam profile.
The mirror finish reflector is more of a special request by those wishing to convert this light to an XHP-35, which is a 12V emitter with the 4 dies literally pressed together without the open cross pattern between them. This allows for a tighter beam profile that’s cleaner and works well with the mirror finish for throw.
The short tube need to be add 2-3mm length and maybe a place for the tactical ring like the long and in block style
I like BLF too that you can make advices for manufacturers to make what you want. I want that tube for my L2 also. So if produced I will need two of them.
So my solution for carrying this light and having the button “up” and easy to find came together today. For a BRIEF synopsis go to pg 60 post #1796 where I quote staticx57s post where he has the link to the sling and I have the dropper loop knot link.
I used 50# test leader material to tie the dropper in a long length of leader, and to tie the entire length of leader material and dropper to one one of the slots in the cooling fins near the end of the light. Ultimately you want this to be very tight to the light and in alignment with the button. I used another smaller loop of leader material through one of the holes intended for that at the tailcap of the tube. The inexpensive military sling finished off the assembly. The result is that the button stays upright and easy to find (a hole in a fin would still be better), and the light hangs horizontally because of the better balance. I’m happy with this, but it can still be better. Now I can work outside and both hands are free and I can change modes easily because I can find the button.
BTW, the sling is far more rugged than it needs to be for this use.