I done heating up test with 3,5A 10x7135 C8 and after 15 minutes there was only 3,8V in the freshly charged 2500mAh battery. So it depends on capacity too.
Is it a high-discharge cell, that prevents voltage-sag? If so, isn’t 3.8v enough to drive the LED and circuit at constant-current?
I thought the 7135’s just “throw away” extra voltage in the form of heat. So, a fresh cell isn’t providing any more current or efficiency than a partially-drained cell (until the voltage drops below what is needed). Is that wrong?
Any photos comparing XPL HI 4C tint and 3A? i wonder how much warmer the 4C is. i have 3A Convoy S2+.
Some posts ago I put some photos. It is not XPL-HI 4C but it is XML2 T6-4C vs XPL-HI U6-3A
thanks exactly why i need, how do you liking your 4C? it look a bit too yellow but might be still okay for me.
It looks more yellow because the photo was taken with a cellphone, with not “special” conditions.
But, in fact, it is more yellow that the other tints, without being extremely yellow (I guess that would be the 7A tint in Convoy’s XML2 leds options).
I love this tint (4C)! For indoor use it is my favourite! Your eyes don’t get tired.
For outdoor use, in a close range and more floody beam, I also like it a lot, specially in green areas or areas without buildings.
I have never tried this colour in XPL-HI led, nor with the SMO reflector. But I guess it can be a good choice too 
BTW, take a look at this post (by mattlward, new C8 led tint - #4 by mattlward) Maybe it can help you deciding what to chose :+1: )
thanks a lot i think i will try 4C never had one . :+1:
Glad it helped! If you have the 3A, the 4C will be a nice acquisition for sure, I guess you won’t be disappointed
I’ve been a little torn over my 4C choice as I get used to the light. At first I thought it might be too warm for indoor use, but after using it a number of times outside, I find it really nice. Makes my yard and garden pop with rich color.
I can see what MascaratumB sees in regards to indoor use though. The warmer beam might be less fatiguing against white walls.
Keep in mind that photos have to pick a “white balance” in the image. If the camera is using 5000K as a white-balance, then 4C tints will look yellow, and 1A tints will look blue. 3A will look neutral, because the CCT of a 3A tint is about 5000K.
If the camera uses 4300K as a white balance, then 4C will look neutral, and 3A will look blue, and 1A will look really blue.
Your eyes automatically adjust to tint, and will choose “white” to be whatever tint dominates the scene (within limits). If your only light source is your 4C tint flashlight, then it will look white. Different colors will be emphasized under different tints, which is why a neutral 3A or 4C tint is often preferred by flashaholics. Colors look more natural under “neutral” tints.
A little OT here, but is there a suggested white balance to use when taking beam shots? When you shoot RAW, it’s easy to set the WB afterwards. I think I’ve seen many people just stick to 5000K WB, but I was not sure what’s “best practice” for sharing beam shots online.
I normally set my WB to daylight as that is what human eyes sees it as white.
My phone (Xperia z3compact) does not allow sophisticated white balance adjustments, just 4 choices plus ‘auto’ (btw the ‘auto’ does a pretty good job most times) What I do is compare the phone screen picture with the real beam and pick the best matching white balance.
But it is never ever completely correct, whatever fancy camera you use, and if two beams are compared in one picture, whatever white balance you choose, there is at least one beam completely off. Years ago I did some checks and posted about it, you can find it via my sigline.
My phone doesn’t do those balances as well, so when I take a picture I just have to touch the screen and try to balance it manually.
But, sometimes, the tints suffer changes as expected. Recently I received 2 lights and neither have a “greenish” tint, just Neutral White tint (1, a bit rosy, 1 a bit yellow), but the image insisted on getting green.
The same happens when taking some photos of the XPL-HI U6-3A, it sometimes gets green but at human sight it is really white!
I guess that, not having the ideal conditions we must:
And, of course, advise the readers of the conditions in which the photos were taken! 
Yup. On top of it, people’s monitors are not all calibrated the same way, so even if it looks correct on your end, it may look somewhat different on their end.
@MascaratumB: Thanks for the beamshot and explanation! Very much appreciated. Are NCR18650B ok for an 8*7135 configuration? I have one protected NCR18650B and two unprotected NCR18650BF.
18650B is ok, but you will probably not achieve max output. Whether you will be able to tell the difference with a naked eye is another story though.
It it suppose to maintain when battery capacity is unlimited. With 18650 and 4x7135 it is happeniing up to 2 - 3 hours. With 8x7135 it is not posiible. Lumens drops imiddiately. Good news is that we can not see diference between 1000 and 900 lumens.
Well, I’m not an expert on that issue. Sometimes I use a NCR18650B but I normally use a Samsung INR18650-30Q on the Convoys.
Comparing both batteries (take a look here: Battery test-review 18650 comparator) I would say that probably the NCR18650BF would be better!
But I’ll leave that to someone with more knowledge on that…
And it is as Pete7874 said, I don’t know if you’ll notice a lot more luminosity or the same runtime with higher lumens with the BF instead of the B.
Best way to do it is testing it yourself! All and all, both seem pretty nice batteries! :+1:
I don’t think there is a “best practice”. If you’re shooting a single flashlight, then choose a white-balance that matches the tint of the flashlight. That’s the way your eye will see it; you’ll see just plain white.
If I’m comparing tints, I’ll usually use a white-balance around 5000K. That shows neutral white tints like a 3A as white. Cool white will look slightly blue; warmer tints will look slightly yellow.
One other thing to note is that cameras really tend to over-emphasize any green in the tint. A slightly-greenish tint will look very green in a photo. So, that’s something else to be aware of. You can compensate for that if you wish, but I generally don’t. I don’t want to give the impression that a greenish tint is pure white.