We do the questions always too fast than machinery pcb production 
Hello, Im struggling whether to buy the D1k on sale or Swap my D1v2 GT-FC40 5500K, help me decide.
- Buy D1K with XHP50.3 on sale
- Buy the LED on MCPCB and swap in an existing D1
0
voters
Why the 50.3 and not the 70.3 btw?
1 Thank
My thinking is a little bit more throw and the 1900lm vs. 2200lm is such a small difference.
What you gain in throw you could lose by the lesser output, though I’m not sure about that.
Personally I got the D1K with 70.3 Hi in 4000K 70 CRI (on request) because I wanted to make sure I get a rosy tint. Output of those 70.3s is almost 3000 lumens, if that would be an alternative for you.
1 Thank
I like your thinking, I could buy a 70.3 70cri from hank on a mcpcb board, do you know if the 70.3 is 12v?
AFAIK they’re both 6V and 12V, depending on how you orient them on the mcpcb.
It’s not the orientation on the mcpcb, it’s a different mcpcp, with 5 pads instead of 3, that make the 4 dies of the emitter be in series (12V) instead of 2s2p (6V).
2 Thanks
I’ll just leave it here
$9 on aliexpress
2 times more amps than D1/KR1 xhp70.3 HI with 6V 4A driver
Just hope one day Hank starts working on that
3 Thanks
So (over)simplifying a bit Simon is now doing what Hank was a few years ago offering hotrod lights for a decent price.
2 Thanks
Maybe, but I want the best of both worlds. 
Just got a prototype D4K-3ch, and now I can make some final adjustments to make it work better.
It turns out Hank and I assumed different wire connections, so we were seeing different things. So I’m fixing that.
The attiny1634 has 2 16-bit PWM generators and the other channel uses an 8-bit generator. So 1 of the 3 channels has lower resolution. We just made different assumptions about which one that was.
So I think I’ll add firmware support for both ways it can be wired. That way, Hank and anyone who mods lights can use whatever seems most appropriate at the time. The downside of this is that it’ll have yet another channel mode for people to turn off, depending on their hardware config.
- Channel 1 only (8-bit): may be LEDs 1+2 or LED 4
- Channel 2 only (16-bit): may be LED 3 or LEDs 1+2
- Channel 3 only (16-bit): may be LED 4 or LED 3
- All LEDs, tied together in equal amounts (as much as possible, anyway)
- Adjustable blend between LEDs 3 and 4 (8/16/16 wiring)
- Adjustable blend between LEDs 3 and 4 (16/16/8 wiring)
- HSV style blend of all 3 channels? (unsure if this is useful, may leave it out)
Or maybe the alternate wiring will only swap 2 wires instead of all 3. Then channel 2 would always be LED 3, and the other 2 could be swapped.
The purpose of swapping wires is to ensure that the highest resolution ramp goes in the primary white LEDs. But depending on what the user chooses, that might mean LEDs 1+2 are white, or it might mean that LEDs 3+4 are adjustable white. Both can work, but need different wires connected to get the best results.
Meanwhile, the RGB version uses different firmware with different channel modes (and some different regular modes too). The details aren’t entirely determined yet, but the plan is for Off → 2H to activate a brand new mode group for user-configurable color modes.
4 Thanks
Just to be clear, any idea what Hank is shipping the triple channels with? I’ve got a triple channel RGB that will be delivered today.
1 Thank
Wow, I’m surprised to hear that shipped already, since the firmware for it isn’t written yet. 
It’s probably the same as mine, I’m guessing… which is 8-bit red on LEDs 1+2, then 16-bit green and blue on LEDs 3 and 4. But the firmware was written with an assumption that it would be wired a bit differently, so I need to remap things and finish the firmware.
I’ve had mine for only a few hours. In the “all 3 channels” mode, it really makes some colors amazingly vibrant, especially anything red. Also, the blue mode causes some green objects to fluoresce, which is a cool effect. I have a neon green plexiglass clipboard which is very bright and opaque with the blue LED shining at it, but if I go into red-only mode, it goes completely clear like a pane of glass.
Also, the shadows are pretty wild. Everything gets colorful shadows which look like chromatic aberration, except exaggerated and visible in real life instead of just in photos.
1 Thank
Literally just took delivery of mine. I think it has “151” model code? I’m happy to test stuff if you need!
1 Thank
Yes, 0151 for D4K-3channel, and I’ll use 0152 for the RGB version.
1 Thank
So I guess I’ll need the 152 version whenever you finish it. This one has SST20 red, W2 green, and W2 blue.
A question just occurred to me. Are the 519A’s high CRI emitters? It’s not actually specified in the drop-down or descriptions unlike how it is with some of the other emitters.
1 Thank
Yep, they’re high CRI
1 Thank
All of them? Or are there 70 CRI versions?
1 Thank